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Moderator: Jim Walsh
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- Posts: 110
- Joined: Sep 17th, '07, 10:42
- Location: CD40, Hull #8
COMO NO
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When we were preparing our CD-40 for world cruising we discovered lead ingots on the starboard side. We removed two of the four and found that with stores loaded in the port side lockers the boat sat level. Now we just try not to eat all those cans of beans lest we list. We fibreglassed in the remaining two ingots to prevent their shifting. We could have added more beans ======
- John Vigor
- Posts: 608
- Joined: Aug 27th, '06, 15:58
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No guarantee of symmetry
The latest issue of BoatU.S. tells the story of the owner of a 2007 C&C 115 who discovered his deck was off-center to starboard by 1 1/2 inches.hilbert wrote:Lee,
I have this picture from when I was replacing the core of the cockpit floor. The rudder stock is not in the center of the cockpit. It is offset about an inch to the left (starboard). I don't know if this is common or if there is any significance to it. I've also noticed that if I measure perpendicularly from the mast to the upper shrouds, one side is an inch off from the other. I need to confirm this the next time that I am at the boat.
Thanks,
Jonathan
The builder comments: "One of the norms of the industry is that no builder guarantees symmetry. Even in strict one-design classes there are variations and those variations often do result in a boat that the variables all line up to deliver either a better-performing boat or conversely a poor-performing boat."
Makes you think, doesn't it?
John V.
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- Posts: 3582
- Joined: Oct 6th, '08, 07:30
- Location: S/V Far Reach: CD 36 #61 www.farreachvoayges.net www.farreachvoyages.com
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Hilbert,
I for one could not say whether it would make a weak link on your boat without seeing it personally. My deck was so far off near the stern some of the bolts never passed through the deck! They just went through the mastic gap filler and then the inward turning flange.
I wouldn't think that leaks in and of themselves make the joint weak per se. Hull deck joints can leak for a different reasons. But if the leaks cause the backing plates to rust and fail and then the shrouds let go, well then the hull deck joint was the cause--of course so was the mild steel backing plates . . . but I digress.
On the other hand most of these boats are getting tired and need some serious work to stay sound. So, I guess some of this is too be expected.
I don't think a boat has to leak along the hull deck joint, though so many do. The Far Reach leaked under the toerail, and many other places as well. That is why I removed the toerail, all of the screws (I left the bolts in after counter sinking the heads) and glassed the entire hull deck joint with three layers of 17.7oz biaxial tape 8", 6" 4" wide. It was a big job along with the fairing but it is many times stronger and will never leak along the joint. I think Fred (FenixRises)did the same thing. By the way, I think I eliminated something like 350 machine drilled holes in the deck.
I also read the article in Boat US about the problems C&C and Tartan are having. It is a sobering read and I was thankful for my strong long keeled solid glass hull Cape Dory. It made me feel like I picked the right boat. My own experience is that most boats are not perfectly square so to speak. On the Far Reach the interior was not "square" with the deck or hull. The floor beams were 3/8" out of level over four feet and the bulkheads were 1/2" out of plumb over 6'. Not a crisis but aggravating. I suspect my mast is not centered (initial measurements put it out of plumb 5/8" between the step and the partners. I don't want to think about it now so I'll deal with that later. My boat was stick built without a liner or hull-pan, so I guess there was more room for error. I am not complaining . . . I just want to get my boat in the water and go sailing:)
It's tough taking on those jobs in a Marina but you'll have a better boat for tackling it. Hang tough.
Sorry for the drift.
John
I for one could not say whether it would make a weak link on your boat without seeing it personally. My deck was so far off near the stern some of the bolts never passed through the deck! They just went through the mastic gap filler and then the inward turning flange.
I wouldn't think that leaks in and of themselves make the joint weak per se. Hull deck joints can leak for a different reasons. But if the leaks cause the backing plates to rust and fail and then the shrouds let go, well then the hull deck joint was the cause--of course so was the mild steel backing plates . . . but I digress.
On the other hand most of these boats are getting tired and need some serious work to stay sound. So, I guess some of this is too be expected.
I don't think a boat has to leak along the hull deck joint, though so many do. The Far Reach leaked under the toerail, and many other places as well. That is why I removed the toerail, all of the screws (I left the bolts in after counter sinking the heads) and glassed the entire hull deck joint with three layers of 17.7oz biaxial tape 8", 6" 4" wide. It was a big job along with the fairing but it is many times stronger and will never leak along the joint. I think Fred (FenixRises)did the same thing. By the way, I think I eliminated something like 350 machine drilled holes in the deck.
I also read the article in Boat US about the problems C&C and Tartan are having. It is a sobering read and I was thankful for my strong long keeled solid glass hull Cape Dory. It made me feel like I picked the right boat. My own experience is that most boats are not perfectly square so to speak. On the Far Reach the interior was not "square" with the deck or hull. The floor beams were 3/8" out of level over four feet and the bulkheads were 1/2" out of plumb over 6'. Not a crisis but aggravating. I suspect my mast is not centered (initial measurements put it out of plumb 5/8" between the step and the partners. I don't want to think about it now so I'll deal with that later. My boat was stick built without a liner or hull-pan, so I guess there was more room for error. I am not complaining . . . I just want to get my boat in the water and go sailing:)
It's tough taking on those jobs in a Marina but you'll have a better boat for tackling it. Hang tough.
Sorry for the drift.
John
two more cases of boat asymmetry
My Montgomery 17 has some asymmetry to her skeg, visible when on the trailer.
Here is a Pearson Triton with a lopsided foredeck:
http://www.triton381.com/projects/small ... locker.htm
Scroll down to the last pic on the page...
I'm sure it isn't easy keeping things perfect, especially when there isn't a straight line to be seen!![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Here is a Pearson Triton with a lopsided foredeck:
http://www.triton381.com/projects/small ... locker.htm
Scroll down to the last pic on the page...
I'm sure it isn't easy keeping things perfect, especially when there isn't a straight line to be seen!
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Tod Mills
Montgomery 17 "BuscaBrisas", Sandusky, OH (with trips elsewhere)
Tartan 26 project boat
Cape Dory admirer
Montgomery 17 "BuscaBrisas", Sandusky, OH (with trips elsewhere)
Tartan 26 project boat
Cape Dory admirer
I've worked for several builders in the past and I would like to add to Fred and John V's observations. First of all I agree with John that the rudder location is not going to have any effect.
Fred is dead right about the assymetry issues in tooling and hull molds. In the years I worked on production lines I never came across two hull deck assemblies that went together the same way. They are not precision fits at all. Often times much *persuasion* is employed to get the components to align to an acceptable fit. A problem that I frequently witnessed was hull distortion when hulls were pulled from the molds too early before proper cure. Sometimes this happened because of environmental reasons, sometimes because of production rush. Hulls that might be produced on a thursday or friday would sometimes distort over the weekend even though cross bracing from gunnel to gunnel would be used to stabilize them. I have witnessed hulls over a foot and more out of alignment from a deck due to hull distortion. This obviously causes all sorts of havoc when deck fitment takes place. Major adjustments and modifications would sometimes be used to save a hull.
The idea that there is assymetry on any boat is reality and it is nothing unusual to discover. The boats are totally hand built and variances are a fact of life in component dimensions, and as a result of worker adjustments and tweaks during various assembly stages, not to mention damage repairs and corrections. Builders will do anything and everything to correct an error to save a hull. You would not believe your eyes if you saw some of the things that take place in boat production facilities. I have seen things like skegs on split hull boats as large as 52 footers as much as 8 inches out of alignment, then completely modified to try and straighten to the centerline. I have seen keels with distortions beyond belief and later modified by hand to bring back close to specs. New boats are not always "new".
Fred is dead right about the assymetry issues in tooling and hull molds. In the years I worked on production lines I never came across two hull deck assemblies that went together the same way. They are not precision fits at all. Often times much *persuasion* is employed to get the components to align to an acceptable fit. A problem that I frequently witnessed was hull distortion when hulls were pulled from the molds too early before proper cure. Sometimes this happened because of environmental reasons, sometimes because of production rush. Hulls that might be produced on a thursday or friday would sometimes distort over the weekend even though cross bracing from gunnel to gunnel would be used to stabilize them. I have witnessed hulls over a foot and more out of alignment from a deck due to hull distortion. This obviously causes all sorts of havoc when deck fitment takes place. Major adjustments and modifications would sometimes be used to save a hull.
The idea that there is assymetry on any boat is reality and it is nothing unusual to discover. The boats are totally hand built and variances are a fact of life in component dimensions, and as a result of worker adjustments and tweaks during various assembly stages, not to mention damage repairs and corrections. Builders will do anything and everything to correct an error to save a hull. You would not believe your eyes if you saw some of the things that take place in boat production facilities. I have seen things like skegs on split hull boats as large as 52 footers as much as 8 inches out of alignment, then completely modified to try and straighten to the centerline. I have seen keels with distortions beyond belief and later modified by hand to bring back close to specs. New boats are not always "new".
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- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Hi John R,
I was surprised and pleased to hear from you again. It tells me that you are still in the background reading up on what goes on with the CDSOA.
Without sounding too corny, I often have deep concern regarding members who have contributed items for so many years and then not hearing from them for a long time. So your post today lifts a burden from many of us reader's minds.
We have been reading your nautical words of wisdom since way back in the last century. I, for one, have always respected your replies and guidance. Here's looking forward to hearing again from you real soon.
Best Regards,
O J
I was surprised and pleased to hear from you again. It tells me that you are still in the background reading up on what goes on with the CDSOA.
Without sounding too corny, I often have deep concern regarding members who have contributed items for so many years and then not hearing from them for a long time. So your post today lifts a burden from many of us reader's minds.
We have been reading your nautical words of wisdom since way back in the last century. I, for one, have always respected your replies and guidance. Here's looking forward to hearing again from you real soon.
Best Regards,
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
Voting Member #490