Replacing standing rigging and adding a solent stay
Moderator: bobdugan
Replacing standing rigging and adding a solent stay
I will be replacing the standing rigging on my CD28. I decided to keep all the wire the same size, upper shrouds and stay 1/4â€
CD equipment
There is a reason Cape Dory rigged the boats like they did. On the 30k I have not changed anything from original.....not sure if sizes are the same as your boat..... I have had good luck with the rigging as original and it is standing the test over time....so many factors I guess determine how things last.....but normal mid latitude use is very long as long as no great amounts of stress have occured on the vessel.....while oversize may initially seem great in the area that it is done, there is an entire vessel to think about......which part does one want to fail if condition that promote failure is encountered.......good luck with change......
Keep board advised as to how you progress thanks
Keep board advised as to how you progress thanks
Jim Lewis
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Bob Ohler
- Posts: 610
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 14:11
- Location: CD30 1984 Hull# 335 Aloha Spirit, Chesapeake Bay
Solent Stay?
I'll bite... What's a solent stay and where will it go on a CD28?
Bob Ohler
CDSOA Member #188
CD30B, Hull # 335
sv Aloha Spirit
CDSOA Member #188
CD30B, Hull # 335
sv Aloha Spirit
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2tocruise
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Jul 22nd, '07, 10:02
- Location: CD 28 "Avanti"
Little Creek, VA
Currently in Annapolis, MD
new rigging
We replaced all the standing rigging last spring, and added a solent stay.
I kept all of the wire sizing the same, 1/4 for fore/backstay and uppers, 3/16 for lower shrouds. As fitted, the 1/4 wire used 3/8 pins and the 3/16 wire used 5/16. In order to standardize the parts (apparently in 3/16 swage fittings, 5/16 is a special order size) I increased the size of the lower pins to 3/8" by re-drilling the chain plate padeyes. There was plenty of material to accept a larger size, and the difference between 5/16 and 3/8 is minimal.
For the solent, we added a external tang of stainless steel plate with a welded padeye. The rigging shop happened to have one on hand from a project for which they never used it. It was bolted to the mast using six 1/4" machine screws tapped to the mast wall. An ABI deck padeye was used on the foredeck, with a turnbuckle and fittings below decks (rope locker) connecting it to the hull to transfer the load.
The stay itself is 1/4" wire; swaged at one end, a staylok fitting on the lower portion. This allowed the cable to be left long for proper fitting of the stay. An adjustable locking turnbuckle fitting allows the stay to be tensioned. I had wanted to use the ABI type "highfield lever", but had considerable trouble finding one since ABI is no more. I used a Johnson marine fitting instead.
When not in use, the stay is secured to the Port rail and tensioned to keep from flopping around. The locking turnbuckle lives below. We used it for the first time this year, flying the jib from my lightning as a staysail. It worked, but I want to get a dedicated staysail. We also found a nice looking storm jib, but have not used it.
I kept all of the wire sizing the same, 1/4 for fore/backstay and uppers, 3/16 for lower shrouds. As fitted, the 1/4 wire used 3/8 pins and the 3/16 wire used 5/16. In order to standardize the parts (apparently in 3/16 swage fittings, 5/16 is a special order size) I increased the size of the lower pins to 3/8" by re-drilling the chain plate padeyes. There was plenty of material to accept a larger size, and the difference between 5/16 and 3/8 is minimal.
For the solent, we added a external tang of stainless steel plate with a welded padeye. The rigging shop happened to have one on hand from a project for which they never used it. It was bolted to the mast using six 1/4" machine screws tapped to the mast wall. An ABI deck padeye was used on the foredeck, with a turnbuckle and fittings below decks (rope locker) connecting it to the hull to transfer the load.
The stay itself is 1/4" wire; swaged at one end, a staylok fitting on the lower portion. This allowed the cable to be left long for proper fitting of the stay. An adjustable locking turnbuckle fitting allows the stay to be tensioned. I had wanted to use the ABI type "highfield lever", but had considerable trouble finding one since ABI is no more. I used a Johnson marine fitting instead.
When not in use, the stay is secured to the Port rail and tensioned to keep from flopping around. The locking turnbuckle lives below. We used it for the first time this year, flying the jib from my lightning as a staysail. It worked, but I want to get a dedicated staysail. We also found a nice looking storm jib, but have not used it.
Twenty years from now, you will be more disapointed by the things you didn't do than by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.
- Mark Twain
- Mark Twain
Description of solent stay
Bob,
A solent stay allows one to hank on a sail, when the roller-furled sail is not desired. There is no need for running backstays, if it is mounted from close to the backstay to a reinforced pad eye on the deck. The solent stay is usually disconnected and put to the side when not in use.
My own preference is to have a roller-furled clubfoot working jib. In light air, I don’t mind going forward to hank on a larger sail.
A solent stay allows one to hank on a sail, when the roller-furled sail is not desired. There is no need for running backstays, if it is mounted from close to the backstay to a reinforced pad eye on the deck. The solent stay is usually disconnected and put to the side when not in use.
My own preference is to have a roller-furled clubfoot working jib. In light air, I don’t mind going forward to hank on a larger sail.
question for 2tocruise
2tocruise,
Did you also change the pins on the mast tangs from 5/16" to 3/8"?
Did you also change the pins on the mast tangs from 5/16" to 3/8"?