I purchased a typhoon weekender last November. I read this board daily all winter and picked up an endless amount of information. Thanks to all. I took the boat out in Boston Harbor last weekend and WOW what a boat. I have a couple of rigging questions though.
At the end of the boom there are two pieces of "flat metal" with a hole punched through. I attached the mainsheet block to both but I'm not sure this is right. Is one for the topping lift?
Do they have anything to do with the roller reefing, which I'm not sure how that works either?
Thanks,
Robert
CD Typhoon PEGASUS
RobMelvin1@aol.com
Typhoon Rigging Question
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Don Carr
Re: Typhoon Rigging Question
Robert; Although I have a CD25, the boom configuration is the same.
The two tangs on the end of the boom fitting as you have surmised are for the boom end sheeting and topping lift. Obviously the more stout tang is for the sheeting while the other is for the topping lift.
As far as the roller reefing is concernedthere is a good description in the owners manuals which you can find on this site. But briefly it
is a 2 person operation. You will notice the two tangs are freespinning on the boom end fitting. To reef send someone to the mast and have the them first tension the topping lift so that any slack is out then ease the mainsail halyard while you pull the boom aft and 'roll' the sail on the boom for a desired amount. A couple of notes here (opinions). First before reefing make sure you ease the outhaul as the best way to shorten the life of the sail by stretching it out of shape is to ease the luff tension while foot tension is high (don't forget to re-tension the halyard first, then the outhaul after you've reefed). Second, roller reefing is best done well before you get out bouncing around in heavy air. There is a good reason roller reefing is obsolete. Hope this helps.
carrd48@netzero.net
The two tangs on the end of the boom fitting as you have surmised are for the boom end sheeting and topping lift. Obviously the more stout tang is for the sheeting while the other is for the topping lift.
As far as the roller reefing is concernedthere is a good description in the owners manuals which you can find on this site. But briefly it
is a 2 person operation. You will notice the two tangs are freespinning on the boom end fitting. To reef send someone to the mast and have the them first tension the topping lift so that any slack is out then ease the mainsail halyard while you pull the boom aft and 'roll' the sail on the boom for a desired amount. A couple of notes here (opinions). First before reefing make sure you ease the outhaul as the best way to shorten the life of the sail by stretching it out of shape is to ease the luff tension while foot tension is high (don't forget to re-tension the halyard first, then the outhaul after you've reefed). Second, roller reefing is best done well before you get out bouncing around in heavy air. There is a good reason roller reefing is obsolete. Hope this helps.
carrd48@netzero.net
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Rob Melvin
Roller reefing
If the roller reefing is a two person job and also obsolete then what is my alternative or options? (i'm relatively new at this. my last boat was a Daysailer 1 which we sailed only on lakes and never had to reef anything) Eventually when I'm confident in this boat I will have my wife and 2 small children with me so reefing quickly and solo is very important for me.
RobMelvin@aol.com
RobMelvin@aol.com
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Don Carr
Re: Roller reefing
Your alternativesare:
1. Use the boat as is and set your reef at the dock before leaving
which you could do as a one person operation.
OR
2. Spend about $200 and have reef points put into the sail and
install 'single line reefing'. At this price point you could have
a one person operation (marginally) or for about $400 set up the
main halyard and reef lines to the cockpit. I would think; IMHO,
that on a Typhoon I would opt for the lower cost option as all
that would be required is to tie off the tiller or have your
mate hold the course while you were at the mast reefing.
From a cost perspective, Study the Harken System a bit and get
the Garhauer blocks. With all due respecct to Harken, their
equipment is top notch but they seem to get overly elaorate
in their configurations with more blocks than would seem necessary. There are some good Web sites that discuss this;
one of my favorites is Brian Toss's (rigger) site.
carrd48@netzero.net
1. Use the boat as is and set your reef at the dock before leaving
which you could do as a one person operation.
OR
2. Spend about $200 and have reef points put into the sail and
install 'single line reefing'. At this price point you could have
a one person operation (marginally) or for about $400 set up the
main halyard and reef lines to the cockpit. I would think; IMHO,
that on a Typhoon I would opt for the lower cost option as all
that would be required is to tie off the tiller or have your
mate hold the course while you were at the mast reefing.
From a cost perspective, Study the Harken System a bit and get
the Garhauer blocks. With all due respecct to Harken, their
equipment is top notch but they seem to get overly elaorate
in their configurations with more blocks than would seem necessary. There are some good Web sites that discuss this;
one of my favorites is Brian Toss's (rigger) site.
carrd48@netzero.net
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Mike Wainfeld
Re: Typhoon Rigging Question
Robert-
Jiffy reefing on a Ty can easily be done singlehanded, even in a blow-one of the advantages of a small boat is that you can reach everything. The trick is to first heave to on a port tack-another thing the Ty does beautifully-so that the main is to starboard and you can access the reefing line and reefing cringle, all on the port side of the mast and boom and the boat is quiet. Search the archives for "reefing " for more info on the setup.
Mike
CD Typhoon "Regalo"
ripcord1@erols.com
Jiffy reefing on a Ty can easily be done singlehanded, even in a blow-one of the advantages of a small boat is that you can reach everything. The trick is to first heave to on a port tack-another thing the Ty does beautifully-so that the main is to starboard and you can access the reefing line and reefing cringle, all on the port side of the mast and boom and the boat is quiet. Search the archives for "reefing " for more info on the setup.
Mike
CD Typhoon "Regalo"
ripcord1@erols.com
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Ben Thomas
Re: Typhoon Rigging Question
Robert, I had a typhoon before I got my cd30. I single hand the 30 85% of the time and have reefed after heaving to. the worst part of doing this is anticapating that first time. Go through the procedure at dock side and have it clearly in your mind in its step by step sequence. practice at the dock then practice out on the water in mild winds. the learning gradient is not so steep this way. then when you've got it, reefing in heavy air is not so bad. also if you know the wind is up reef before heading out.When on your practice runs heave to as well, then reef. You will find the typhoon will handle all this with ease. just find those sweet spots and she will purr like a kitten. best regards, BenRob Melvin wrote: I purchased a typhoon weekender last November. I read this board daily all winter and picked up an endless amount of information. Thanks to all. I took the boat out in Boston Harbor last weekend and WOW what a boat. I have a couple of rigging questions though.
At the end of the boom there are two pieces of "flat metal" with a hole punched through. I attached the mainsheet block to both but I'm not sure this is right. Is one for the topping lift?
Do they have anything to do with the roller reefing, which I'm not sure how that works either?
Thanks,
Robert
CD Typhoon PEGASUS
btlandscapers@imagina.com
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sloopjohnl
Re: Typhoon Rigging Question
rob,
forget the roller reefing - you'll never get good mainsail trim no matter how hard you try. set-up for jiffy reefing. one set of reef points in the main should do you unless you plan on sailing in 40+ knots. you'll need a tack hook on the front of the boom which you can rivet in. and you'll need a block at the boom about where the clew cringle for the reef will meet the boom. there should already be a cleat for the outhaul which can be used for the reefing also. you can easily do it all yourself except the new reef points. check the posts from this past winter - there was a good discussion on this very subject.
forget the roller reefing - you'll never get good mainsail trim no matter how hard you try. set-up for jiffy reefing. one set of reef points in the main should do you unless you plan on sailing in 40+ knots. you'll need a tack hook on the front of the boom which you can rivet in. and you'll need a block at the boom about where the clew cringle for the reef will meet the boom. there should already be a cleat for the outhaul which can be used for the reefing also. you can easily do it all yourself except the new reef points. check the posts from this past winter - there was a good discussion on this very subject.
Rob Melvin wrote: I purchased a typhoon weekender last November. I read this board daily all winter and picked up an endless amount of information. Thanks to all. I took the boat out in Boston Harbor last weekend and WOW what a boat. I have a couple of rigging questions though.
At the end of the boom there are two pieces of "flat metal" with a hole punched through. I attached the mainsheet block to both but I'm not sure this is right. Is one for the topping lift?
Do they have anything to do with the roller reefing, which I'm not sure how that works either?
Thanks,
Robert
CD Typhoon PEGASUS
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Serge Zimberoff
Re: Roller reefing
Rob,
Roller reefing is unsatisfactory because...a)Impossible to get good sail shape, b)If you have a vang it has to come off, c)Any fittings on the boom can damage the sail while it is rolled.
Modifications for jiffy rigging aren't hard. Worst is getting the reef points put into the sail if you don't have a local loft available. Then all you need is a small cheek block and jam cleat on one side of the boom plus a cunningham or reef hook the boom. I prefer the cunningham because it allows you to get good tension on the luff which is hard to do in a blow just with the halyard. A single line reef system is easier, however to do single handed. There are lots of simple sketches of how it is set up. Problem with Typhoons is that there aren't many good spots on the cabin top for turning blocks to be mounted.
Serge
serge@srtrop.com
Roller reefing is unsatisfactory because...a)Impossible to get good sail shape, b)If you have a vang it has to come off, c)Any fittings on the boom can damage the sail while it is rolled.
Modifications for jiffy rigging aren't hard. Worst is getting the reef points put into the sail if you don't have a local loft available. Then all you need is a small cheek block and jam cleat on one side of the boom plus a cunningham or reef hook the boom. I prefer the cunningham because it allows you to get good tension on the luff which is hard to do in a blow just with the halyard. A single line reef system is easier, however to do single handed. There are lots of simple sketches of how it is set up. Problem with Typhoons is that there aren't many good spots on the cabin top for turning blocks to be mounted.
Serge
serge@srtrop.com
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Al Levesque
Re: Roller reefing
I admit that roller reefing is not my first choice but I have often single handed and usually roller reefed alone on a Bristol 33, a CD25, and a Typhoon. (The 33 was gear and crank driven.) There was never a hazard in doing it. The worse problem I found was that the aft end of the boom would droop. I solved that by placing an old jacket or sweater in the first roll near the leech. I got the idea from a Herreshoff boom design that was enlarged near the aft end to handle this problem.Rob Melvin wrote: If the roller reefing is a two person job and also obsolete then what is my alternative or options?
Al
albertlevesque@cove.com