Is there a way to lubricate the rudder post without removing the rudder? Can I just take the tiller bracket off and force grease down the tube or is there a zerks fitting somewhere for a grease gun? Any particular kind of grease - automotive/bicycle (which is what I have on hand) or is there a marine version? Isn't all grease waterproof?
A bunch of questions there and the project will probably wait until spring, but it was on my mind. The boat is in its winter quarters - on a trailer under a stylish blue tarp in my driveway near Sturgeon Bay, WI.
Thanks.
John
Typhoon rudder post lubrication
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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- Posts: 87
- Joined: May 21st, '05, 14:27
- Location: Flying Scott, Sunfish
Treat it like a wheel bearing
That is, if you have ever repacked one.
If your rudder setup is like mine,what I did will work for you. Remove the tillerhead, take a hand-full for grease and run your hand down the rudder shaft. A small amount will go down the gap between the shaft and the tube.
Collect all the grease from the outside of the tube, put it in your hand and repeat the first action.
Repeat, repeat. repeat.
Sooner or later (actually, later) the tube will fill up with grease. You may now stop, clean up and reattach the tillerhead.
The only good part of this I can tell you from my experience is that I did it in 1995, and the grease was still effective in 2003 when I sold my Ty.
I used a general purpose thick grease I bought in an auto parts store. It was dark in color, didn't smell good and was quite cheap. Helped keep the leakage under control when the boat was overloaded, too.
Good luck
Bill
If your rudder setup is like mine,what I did will work for you. Remove the tillerhead, take a hand-full for grease and run your hand down the rudder shaft. A small amount will go down the gap between the shaft and the tube.
Collect all the grease from the outside of the tube, put it in your hand and repeat the first action.
Repeat, repeat. repeat.
Sooner or later (actually, later) the tube will fill up with grease. You may now stop, clean up and reattach the tillerhead.
The only good part of this I can tell you from my experience is that I did it in 1995, and the grease was still effective in 2003 when I sold my Ty.
I used a general purpose thick grease I bought in an auto parts store. It was dark in color, didn't smell good and was quite cheap. Helped keep the leakage under control when the boat was overloaded, too.
Good luck
Bill
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- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Lubricating The Rudder Post
Hi John and Bill,
I follow the same technique as Bill does, with a slight twist or two. I seal shut the lower end of the rudder tube with Duxseal (electrical putty) or its equivalent. Duxseal was the original, but there are a lot of other brands just as food. A 1 pound brick can be found in electrical supply houses, hardware stores and big box stores for 2 or 3 dollars.
http://www.interseals.co.uk/duxseal.html
http://www.foxelectricsupply.com/conten ... ryId=26251
I use bearing grease for lube. I place the lube can in a pail filled with hot water. In time, the hot water reduces the grease's viscosity to the point that it can be poured down the tube, so to speak.
In time, the grease cools off and becomes stable again. Then you can either remove the duxseal or let it remain in place until it falls out after much use of the rudder.
The packed duxseal also helps in preventing water from entering the cockpit via the rudder tube.
Another variation on a theme,
O J
I follow the same technique as Bill does, with a slight twist or two. I seal shut the lower end of the rudder tube with Duxseal (electrical putty) or its equivalent. Duxseal was the original, but there are a lot of other brands just as food. A 1 pound brick can be found in electrical supply houses, hardware stores and big box stores for 2 or 3 dollars.
http://www.interseals.co.uk/duxseal.html
http://www.foxelectricsupply.com/conten ... ryId=26251
I use bearing grease for lube. I place the lube can in a pail filled with hot water. In time, the hot water reduces the grease's viscosity to the point that it can be poured down the tube, so to speak.
In time, the grease cools off and becomes stable again. Then you can either remove the duxseal or let it remain in place until it falls out after much use of the rudder.
The packed duxseal also helps in preventing water from entering the cockpit via the rudder tube.
Another variation on a theme,
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
Voting Member #490
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- Posts: 87
- Joined: May 21st, '05, 14:27
- Location: Flying Scott, Sunfish
Now you tell me
Where were you in 1995, OJ? My hand smelled like grease for weeks.