Thought I'd seek the collective wisdom of the board before doing something totally - and embarrassingly - stupid.
Just took delivery of a new trailer with poppets and was wondering if there a prescribed/preferred method for the initial adjustment of the poppets. Am thinking it makes sense to raise either the port or starboard side poppets and then gradually raising the those on the other. Then again, when I think I get into trouble.
My Ty is in the water and a sufficiently deep ramp is available. Will be hauling her out this week.
mjohn
Using new trailer with Typhoon??
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Poppet Adjustment And Initial Trailer Setup
With the keel centered in the trailer trough, the initial adjustment should be so that the Ty's center of weight, fore and aft, should be over the trailer axle.
The center of weight is at about the location of the bulkhead between the cockpit and the cuddy cabin. With the boat's weight centered over the axle, adjust the vee support stop for the cutwater, or stem.
Place the trailer on fairly level surface. Lay a straight 2"x4" athwartship across the coaming boards. Place a spirit level on top of the 2"x4" where it can be seen. Turn the poppet adjustments up or down until the bubble on the level reads between the lines. There should only be slight tension between the poppets and the hull. Rotate the pads for maximum contact with the hull.
In reality, the full weight of the boat is supported by the keel. The adjustable poppets' role is to maintain the hull in an upright position.
After the trailer has been adjusted suitably, some people remove any oil or grease on the poppet threads and paint a mark on the threads as a reference point for future adjustments. Then regrease.
Good luck,
O J
The center of weight is at about the location of the bulkhead between the cockpit and the cuddy cabin. With the boat's weight centered over the axle, adjust the vee support stop for the cutwater, or stem.
Place the trailer on fairly level surface. Lay a straight 2"x4" athwartship across the coaming boards. Place a spirit level on top of the 2"x4" where it can be seen. Turn the poppet adjustments up or down until the bubble on the level reads between the lines. There should only be slight tension between the poppets and the hull. Rotate the pads for maximum contact with the hull.
In reality, the full weight of the boat is supported by the keel. The adjustable poppets' role is to maintain the hull in an upright position.
After the trailer has been adjusted suitably, some people remove any oil or grease on the poppet threads and paint a mark on the threads as a reference point for future adjustments. Then regrease.
Good luck,
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
Voting Member #490
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Pre-setting the Poppets
Guestimate the areas that the poppet pads will contact the hull.
Measure across from pad to pad. Measure the width of the underwater beam of the hull and divde by two.
Measure the distance from the trailer axle foreward to the front pad. Measure from the axle to the rear pad.
If the boat is on the hard, measure the vertical distance from the bottom of the keel to the height of where the pads will contact the hull.
If the boat is still in the water or you are unable to to locate where the pads will meet the hull, I will measure these approximate distances tomorrow and post them.
I suggest that you keep the pad surfaces maybe an inch or more lower than the measurements. If you load the boat on a ramp and the pads are too high, the boat won't float into position.
If the pads are too high, when a crane or boat lift lowers the hull, the keel won't rest in the trough. The full weight will be on the pads. It is better to keep the pads a little low.
After the keel rests on the trailer in a semi-level position, it will be easy to elevate one side or the other by turning the screw jacks until the level reads even. The weight will be on the keel and the boat will teeter sideways back and forth with the screw jacks until it is set where you want it. Mark the approximate setting.
As stated earlier, I will get some rough measurements and post them for you as soon as possible.
Good luck,
O J
Measure across from pad to pad. Measure the width of the underwater beam of the hull and divde by two.
Measure the distance from the trailer axle foreward to the front pad. Measure from the axle to the rear pad.
If the boat is on the hard, measure the vertical distance from the bottom of the keel to the height of where the pads will contact the hull.
If the boat is still in the water or you are unable to to locate where the pads will meet the hull, I will measure these approximate distances tomorrow and post them.
I suggest that you keep the pad surfaces maybe an inch or more lower than the measurements. If you load the boat on a ramp and the pads are too high, the boat won't float into position.
If the pads are too high, when a crane or boat lift lowers the hull, the keel won't rest in the trough. The full weight will be on the pads. It is better to keep the pads a little low.
After the keel rests on the trailer in a semi-level position, it will be easy to elevate one side or the other by turning the screw jacks until the level reads even. The weight will be on the keel and the boat will teeter sideways back and forth with the screw jacks until it is set where you want it. Mark the approximate setting.
As stated earlier, I will get some rough measurements and post them for you as soon as possible.
Good luck,
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
Voting Member #490
If you don't mind getting wet, you can adjust the pads similar to using a marine railway and not that differently from a hydraulic trailer. You get the boat positioned properly fore and aft over the trailer with the pads all the way down. Then you bring the trailer out of the water until the boat is fully grounded on the trailer. At this point, the boat will rock back and forth a bit but won't lay over very much. If you bring it too far out of the water, then it will want to fall over so you want to go just far enough so that it is grounded fore and aft. It is easy to tell when the boat has grounded forward since the bow will rise as the trailer goes up the ramp but it is a bit harder to tell back aft. On a marine railway, I look for the angle of the boat to stop changing which usually occurs when the normal waterline is still underwater. You can also sometimes feel the small amount of motion in the boat change. At this point, you adjust the pads to get the boat level. Then you drive the trailer the rest of the way out of the water.
This is how I have adjusted them for unknown boats in the past but I have worked a bit on a marine railway. It certainly does not sound pleasant this time of year so getting measurements from OJ may be a lot nicer.
This is how I have adjusted them for unknown boats in the past but I have worked a bit on a marine railway. It certainly does not sound pleasant this time of year so getting measurements from OJ may be a lot nicer.
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Initial Pad Settings
mjohn,
Here are a few measurements that I took from a Ty sitting on my Triad trailer.
I hope that they will be of some use to you. Remember, lower settings are better than too high.
Good luck,
O J
Here are a few measurements that I took from a Ty sitting on my Triad trailer.
I hope that they will be of some use to you. Remember, lower settings are better than too high.
Good luck,
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
Voting Member #490
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mjohn
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Apr 6th, '10, 14:34
- Location: Typhoon Weekender, Versus, #1670, Bethlehem, PA
How could anyone ask for more?! As my granddaughter might say, "This board rocks!"
OJ, your drawings - assuming they're yours - leave nothing to be desired. Well, almost nothing.
Will be hauling Versus out tomorrow with camera, paper and pencil in hand. Hopefully I'll be able to provide details. For those interested, the trailer is a Triad.
mjohn
OJ, your drawings - assuming they're yours - leave nothing to be desired. Well, almost nothing.
Will be hauling Versus out tomorrow with camera, paper and pencil in hand. Hopefully I'll be able to provide details. For those interested, the trailer is a Triad.
mjohn
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Bill Goldsmith
- Posts: 625
- Joined: Feb 7th, '05, 08:47
- Location: CD 32
Question for OJ or others about fore 'n aft placement
Hi!
My son salvaged an abandoned Ty from a local marina and I am helping him fix it up. We recently obtained a suitably strong boat trailer which we are modifying for local transport.
OJ, you mentioned above that "The center of weight is at about the location of the bulkhead between the cockpit and the cuddy cabin."
Are you referring to a Weekender or a Daysailer? It looks to tm that the daysailer cuddy cabin bulhead is forward of the one on the Weekender. We have a Weekender, and I am still figuring out if I need to adjust the position of the trailer axle.
My son salvaged an abandoned Ty from a local marina and I am helping him fix it up. We recently obtained a suitably strong boat trailer which we are modifying for local transport.
OJ, you mentioned above that "The center of weight is at about the location of the bulkhead between the cockpit and the cuddy cabin."
Are you referring to a Weekender or a Daysailer? It looks to tm that the daysailer cuddy cabin bulhead is forward of the one on the Weekender. We have a Weekender, and I am still figuring out if I need to adjust the position of the trailer axle.
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Ooops
Hi Bill,
Oops, my bad. Sometimes I generalize too much. You are correct. On the daysailer with the bulkhead, it is farther foreward than the bulkhead on the Daysailer. When I wrote it, I was referring to mjohn's Weekender.
There is one other point that I usually mention but didn't. I did say that the Ty's center of weight should be about over tha axle. Well, yes and no. It is better to keep the center of weight a slight bit ahead of the axle. This keeps some weight pressing on the trailer hitch.
Of course, there should be some weight pressing downward on the ball hitch, but there are other methods to acquire that weight. With leverage, placing weights inside the hull, tool boxes, anchor etc. even cement blocks will in a way substitute repositioning the hull in relation to the axle.
Another thing that you might do is to weigh the downward force of the trailer tongue on the hitch ball. If it should be greater, just before you launch the boat, loosen the vee support under the cutwater and slide it foreward an inch or so and secure it.
The next time you float the boat back onto the trailer, the tongue weight will be increased.
Good luck,
O J
Oops, my bad. Sometimes I generalize too much. You are correct. On the daysailer with the bulkhead, it is farther foreward than the bulkhead on the Daysailer. When I wrote it, I was referring to mjohn's Weekender.
There is one other point that I usually mention but didn't. I did say that the Ty's center of weight should be about over tha axle. Well, yes and no. It is better to keep the center of weight a slight bit ahead of the axle. This keeps some weight pressing on the trailer hitch.
Of course, there should be some weight pressing downward on the ball hitch, but there are other methods to acquire that weight. With leverage, placing weights inside the hull, tool boxes, anchor etc. even cement blocks will in a way substitute repositioning the hull in relation to the axle.
Another thing that you might do is to weigh the downward force of the trailer tongue on the hitch ball. If it should be greater, just before you launch the boat, loosen the vee support under the cutwater and slide it foreward an inch or so and secure it.
The next time you float the boat back onto the trailer, the tongue weight will be increased.
Good luck,
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
Voting Member #490
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Bill Goldsmith
- Posts: 625
- Joined: Feb 7th, '05, 08:47
- Location: CD 32
Re: Ooops
Thanks! Our boat club does not have a ramp, just a Travelift, and we don't anticipate taking the boat elsewhere for the foreseeable future. So we are not making a float-on trailer. The boat did not come with a set of stands--it's currently on borrowed stands that will be needed by late October by their owner! The motivation for this trailer is that one year's winter storage plus a set of boat stands is more than we will pay for the used trailer and the poppets. And in future winters we'll rack up the savings. The Ty is going into the back yard for the winter where the "yard bills" are more reasonable! I'm taking pix of the project which I'll share as progress is made.
Oswego John wrote:Hi Bill,
Oops, my bad. Sometimes I generalize too much. You are correct. On the daysailer with the bulkhead, it is farther foreward than the bulkhead on the Daysailer. When I wrote it, I was referring to mjohn's Weekender.
There is one other point that I usually mention but didn't. I did say that the Ty's center of weight should be about over tha axle. Well, yes and no. It is better to keep the center of weight a slight bit ahead of the axle. This keeps some weight pressing on the trailer hitch.
Of course, there should be some weight pressing downward on the ball hitch, but there are other methods to acquire that weight. With leverage, placing weights inside the hull, tool boxes, anchor etc. even cement blocks will in a way substitute repositioning the hull in relation to the axle.
Another thing that you might do is to weigh the downward force of the trailer tongue on the hitch ball. If it should be greater, just before you launch the boat, loosen the vee support under the cutwater and slide it foreward an inch or so and secure it.
The next time you float the boat back onto the trailer, the tongue weight will be increased.
Good luck,
O J