CD 28' rigging to cockpit?

[Paul Scribner]

I'm thinking of changing the running rigging on my CD 28' so that
everything (main haylard, reefing lines, jib halyard and topping
lifts run back to the cockpit for easier (and safer) single handed
sailing. Has anyone done this? Also has anyone replaced the awkward
main sheet cleat with a cam cleat for easier unloading in a stiff
breeze. Thanks and happy 98' sailing.
Paul
s/v Serenitas
Hull #205



scribner@tiac.net

[Steve Alarcon]

I'm thinking of changing the running rigging on my CD 28' so that
everything (main haylard, reefing lines, jib halyard and topping
lifts run back to the cockpit for easier (and safer) single handed
sailing. Has anyone done this? Also has anyone replaced the awkward
main sheet cleat with a cam cleat for easier unloading in a stiff
breeze. Thanks and happy 98' sailing.
Paul
s/v Serenitas
Hull #205

Paul,
We have a CD30 that is equipped with the running rigging to the cockpit. Works great for short handed sailing. I recommend the change. You will need some method of attaching blocks to the base of the mast to lead the halyards aft; our boat had a "dish" added beneath the mast with holes for attaching blocks, etc.. Also, you will want to add some fairings to the coach roof to keep the lines off the roof and keep things tidy. The main sheet works well in a cam cleat, but it does wear on the sheet a bit more. We attach the coiled ends to some miniature cleats with shock cord to keep the cockpit clear of clutter.

Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle



alarcon@internetmci.com

[John Martin]

I'm thinking of changing the running rigging on my CD 28' so that
everything (main haylard, reefing lines, jib halyard and topping
lifts run back to the cockpit for easier (and safer) single handed
sailing. Has anyone done this? Also has anyone replaced the awkward
main sheet cleat with a cam cleat for easier unloading in a stiff
breeze. Thanks and happy 98' sailing.
Paul
s/v Serenitas
Hull #205

Paul,
We have a CD30 that is equipped with the running rigging to the cockpit. Works great for short handed sailing. I recommend the change. You will need some method of attaching blocks to the base of the mast to lead the halyards aft; our boat had a "dish" added beneath the mast with holes for attaching blocks, etc.. Also, you will want to add some fairings to the coach roof to keep the lines off the roof and keep things tidy. The main sheet works well in a cam cleat, but it does wear on the sheet a bit more. We attach the coiled ends to some miniature cleats with shock cord to keep the cockpit clear of clutter.

Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle

Steve,

I'm interested in the 'dish' you have for the mast. Was it factory installed or custom made then added?

Thanks,
john Martin
CD28 Intrepid
Atlanta



jjnnmartin@aol.com

[Steve Alarcon]

John,
The "dish" was manufactured by a company called Spar Tech (info to follow). I looked up receipts from the previous owner, and Spar Tech referred to the "dish" as a "deck plate" or "mast step casting". The receipt indicated that it is used on an SJ28 (the fax is old and not very good, so those letters might be off), and that it was made of cast aluminum. The cost was $65.00 in March of 1992.

Spar Tech info (not sure if still in business, but can check it out for you if necessary - it's just down the street from my office. E-mail me at steve.alarcon@attws.com for fastest response:
Spar Tech Co.
15230 N.E. 92nd St.
Redmond, Washington 98052
Ph: 425-883-2126
Fax: 425-867-1343

Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle



alarcon@internetmci.com

[chuck yahrling]

John,
The "dish" was manufactured by a company called Spar Tech (info to follow). I looked up receipts from the previous owner, and Spar Tech referred to the "dish" as a "deck plate" or "mast step casting". The receipt indicated that it is used on an SJ28 (the fax is old and not very good, so those letters might be off), and that it was made of cast aluminum. The cost was $65.00 in March of 1992.

Spar Tech info (not sure if still in business, but can check it out for you if necessary - it's just down the street from my office. E-mail me at steve.alarcon@attws.com for fastest response:
Spar Tech Co.
15230 N.E. 92nd St.
Redmond, Washington 98052
Ph: 425-883-2126
Fax: 425-867-1343

Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle

Folks;

I just got a stainless steel plate with several holes for boom vang and cockpit leads. I got it from M&E Marine for about $35. It goes underneath the mast step plate.



yahrling@cybertours.com

[Steve Alarcon]

Chuck,

Do you have any information about dissimilar-metal corrosion, and whether or not it will be an issue with your application?

Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle



alarcon@internetmci.com

[Jerry]

Chuck,

Do you have any information about dissimilar-metal corrosion, and whether or not it will be an issue with your application?

Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle

Steve, I installed the M&E dish Chuck refers to on my CD30 about 2 years ago and it has worked fine. The trick is to put bedding material under the dish and gasket material between the dish and the mast shoe. The gasket material (I just used an old piece of vinal) just separates the 2 metals and the bedding material seals any leaks.

[chuck yahrling]

Chuck,

Do you have any information about dissimilar-metal corrosion, and whether or not it will be an issue with your application?

Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle

Good question. Others may view this differently, but after examining the stainless tangs and fittings on my stock aluminum mast (1982 CD-27), I see no cause for alarm. To be doubly sure, I suppose a tough rubber or nylon plate (1/8 to 1/4") between the step plate and the vang plate could be used, as well as using plastic bushings on the screw holes. This might make the rig mushy, though.

Actually, I'm more concerned with whether the existing step plate screws (or are they bolts?) will be enough to handle the loads on the vang plate. The deck is under a foot of snow right now so I haven't been able to take the step plate off to evaluate the situation.