sailgate for CD 25

[keith kelley]

I installed jiffy reefing this Spring and now am wondering how to insure that the sail will stay in the sail track on the mast. The sail track stops don't seem too trustworthy a solution. Any suggestions?



aurora@capital.net

[bill willis]

I installed jiffy reefing this Spring and now am wondering how to insure that the sail will stay in the sail track on the mast. The sail track stops don't seem too trustworthy a solution. Any suggestions?

Keith,
I made a 'sailgate' using 1" aluminum angle stock. I cut and filed the two pieces (a left and right) to size and then shaped them with a hammer to fit the curve of the mast. I tapped the mast and secured both peices with ss machine screws so that they fit in the 'boom removal slot'and allow the slugs to slide by without falling out. Got the idea from Jim Stull on this board. Pretty simple process- eyeballing, trial and error cutting and fitting. (If you mess up, just start over with another piece of aluminum stock...its cheap.) Mine works fine. I remove it once a year when I pull the boat at end of season. Hope this helps.
Bill
s/v "Sadie"
CD25 #522



wawillis@shore.intercom.net

[Jon]

"that they fit in the'boom removal slot"

Hi!

Where did you set the screws? Into the side of the mast, or within the slot? Where are the angles attached to the mast? Are they sitting inside, or on the outside of the slot?

Jon
s/v Sovereign



Ringj@mediaone.net

[bill willis]

"that they fit in the'boom removal slot"

Hi!

Where did you set the screws? Into the side of the mast, or within the slot? Where are the angles attached to the mast? Are they sitting inside, or on the outside of the slot?

Jon
s/v Sovereign

Jon,
The screws are set in the mast. I cut one leg of the alum. angle down to same thickness of mast at the slot (about 1/8")-filed this shortened leg to fit flush (snug) into the slot while the other leg I hammered to curve and conform to round surface of mast. The final product (one left and one right)is a slightly curved piece of aluminum with an 1/8" lip about 4" long. (length is slightly more than length of slot.) Screws go through the curved leg into drilled/tapped holes in mast. The pieces could have been made from 1" flat stock, but the lip created from cutting down the one angle helps hold the pieces flush against mast, making it more secure. If you wish, send me your snailmail address and I'll send you a sketch with dimensions, etc. (I don't have a scanner or I would email it.)
Regards, Bill



wawillis@shore.intercom.net

[Olli Wendelin]

Bill,

I presume you need tools to remove this underway. I have thought about making a similar arrangement for my CD30. What if the wind picked up and you had to set a storm trysail or go to bare poles? I would probably loose the screws and screwdriver over the side.

Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC



wendelin@spawar.navy.mil

[bill willis]

Bill,

I presume you need tools to remove this underway. I have thought about making a similar arrangement for my CD30. What if the wind picked up and you had to set a storm trysail or go to bare poles? I would probably loose the screws and screwdriver over the side.

Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC

Olli,
There's always a trade-off. I went with the sailgate arrangement because when the winds DO pick up, I can reef much easier, quicker and safer. If it got so bad that I had to go to bare poles, loosing a few 13 cent screws would be the least of my concerns, and something that I could live with... I carry extra screws. I also carry an extra screw driver.
Fair winds,
Bill



wawillis@shore.intercom.net