Waste Deck Plate Too Big for 1 1/2" Sanitation Hose

[North Branch]

I'm replacing the holding tank and hoses on my CD 27 and the new 1 1/2" ID Shields sanitation hose won't fit the hose fitting on the waste deck plate. The casting on the hose fitting is uneven and thicker in some places, and is really 1 5/8", not 1 1/2". (The same hose fits the water fill deck plate fitting perfectly.) I guess the old corrugated hose was more pliant. I tried heating the hose in boiling water, but it still won't fit. Has anyone run into this problem? Would it be possible to get the bronze machined down to 1 1/2? Otherwise, I was thinking of using a larger hose on the bronze with a reduction coupling, if I can find one that fits. Thanks!

[Ray Garcia]

Don't give up it will get on there. Here is what I did. Cut an angled bevel with a sharp razor on the inside edge of the hose. I also did not use the wire reinforced hose for this section. Maybe I should have mentioned that first. I brought the cut hose inside and stepped on the end while rolling it under my foot. I did this to loosen up the hose a bit. I then warmed it in hot water and used dishwasher soap for lubricant. Slip it on the bard while twisting side to side and it should go on. It will take a bit of upward pressure to get it on. You can also add a little soap to the barb end. I double-clamped it, I am not taking any chances there.

CAUTION: Eat half a cup of Wheaties for breakfast before replacing the hose. If you push too hard you will force the the deck fitting upward possibly separating it from the deck. Fight the urge to go superhuman on it.

[seadog6532]

We just went through this a while ago while replacing all our sanitation hoses on Arianna. We found that heating the hose with a heat gun will turn it into a wet noodle and it will slip right on. This also works wonders for removing the old hose. I have used boiling water in the past with mixed results but a heat gun is so much better. You just don't get enough heat with the water and I usually spill it and get a burn. You still need to be careful with the heat gun.

[North Branch]

Thanks guys. I'm using reinforced hose and want to avoid extra joints, so I'll try the heat gun. I already removed the fitting to re-bed it, so I'll attach the hose first w/o clamps and drop it through the deck.

Jim

[Mike Raehl]

I had the same experience replacing sanitation hoses. Heat gun, soap and patience did the trick.

With the deck fitting removed, I cleaned out as much of the balsa deck core as I could reach working from the inside edges of the hole in the deck. In some places, I cleared two to three inches beyond the hole dimension. The gap was then filled with thicken epoxy to ensure no future water leakage into the deck core around the waste pump out fitting.

[Russell]

Use the Vetus sanitation hose, nothing else. It is far more flexible then the other odor free sanitation hose on the market and will cause a lot less headaches, it easily slipped onto a hosebarb fitting that the normal stuff west marine sold needed a heat gun and dish soap and a lot of smelly ugly work to get onto. Its more expensive then the bottom of the line stuff offered, but actually less then the top of the line stuff you will find. I have used every kind in the past, and I just recently redid the factory orgional run of solid PVC from the head to holding tank with the Vetus hose, and I am now a die hard fan of this stuff. When I bought it the local independent chandlery told me about it, and said they couldnt keep it in stock because the professionals always bought them out and the european supplier couldnt send it fast it enough to keep up with demand. After working with it, and my experiences with sanitation hose in the past, I can see why.

[North Branch]

I wish I had known about the Vetus hose, sounds great. I had already bought the other hose, which doesn't bend very well. I gently heated the end with a heat gun for about five minutes and it slid over the fitting with some effort. I heated it again and removed it so I could re-bed the deck waste fitting. The enlarged hose end held the new shape. When the deck waste bedding cures, I'll heat the hose end again and slide it over the fitting.

Thanks for the advice,

Jim

[Ron M.]

I had many of the problems mentioned with head hose/fittings......it was a fight I did not enjoy. A friend mentioned marelon or nylon fittings that are sized to be compatible with sanitation hose. I got a few and swapped them out.......what a pleasure to work with, so I replaced them all and haven't looked back. Double clamp and for insurance a dollop of boatlife for a good seal.
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[North Branch]

Thanks Ron. I installed a new Marelon Y valve this past Spring and it works well.

Do you use Boatlife Lifecaulk (polysulfide) on the sanitation hose connections? I didn't think any sealer was needed. Does anyone else use a sealer on sanitation hose connections? Any pros or cons?

Thanks,

Jim

[Troy Scott]

Folks,

Ron M is right about the hose barbs on the Marelon fittings being more appropriately sized to the sanitation (and other) hose. There are also some Shields fittings made specifically to fit the higher quality hose. One caution: If you change to a Marelon hose fitting in your bronze seacock, make sure that the threads on the plastic fitting are tapered pipe threads. The ones made for Marelon seacocks have straight threads, and those are NOT interchangeable with the ones made for bronze seacocks. If you try to install a straight thread fitting where a tapered fitting is supposed to go, it will tighten after only a few turns. It may seem secure, but the threads will not be engaged well, and it's not safe.

[Ron M.]

Jim.
I did use a little caulk on those connections, although probably redundant, it's a bit of additional precaution and I don't think will cause any problems.
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