25D Interior Seats

[Bruce Ebling]

I was sitting in the cabin today trying to figure out how to make better storage above the port and starboard settee seats inside my 25D. My boat has the heavy boards that the backrest of the seats sets on, then folds out of the way when the settee is converted to a bunk. Has anyone tried removing the folding boards? What would be the plus and minus of doing this? They seem like a lot of weight for not much gain. I know they help the seat back be more vertical, but after removing the boards the seat seemed comfortable still and much wider. Opinions?
Bruce Ebling
25D Selah

[bhartley]

only plusses! We haven't missed them for a minute although they are in our attic in the event that we sell the boat and the buyer wants to use them.

It doesn't really give us any more storage, but it does make seating more comfortable and makes night time sooooo much simpler.

We made no modifications to the cushions. They stay in place most of the time with no prodding.

[barfwinkle]

Hello Bruce

Yes I have. I removed the "fold ups" because I thought them to be a PITA (which they were). However, I am not too sure that the added "convenience" was of any benefit. Now it is very uncomfortable (IMHO) to sit on the settees without pillows.

The only thing that has prevented me from re-installing the "back boards" is L A Z Y!

Others have done the same and used throw pillows, but to me then you have to "put" those somewhere while you sail. Go Figure and pick you poison!

I talked with the cockpit table folks today (their web site wouldn't let me order the new stuff because it was "zero" weight) and they are working on my order. I love the thought of the flexibility of having the table in the cockpit! Your recent post made me "green".

Thanks for the pics and the post. Fair winds

[barfwinkle]

talk about conflicting input

Fair winds

[Steve Darwin]

I thought the setee backs could be used to store folded charts or something like. bjanssen has a 25D for sale with many modifications, including fold-ups removed, and has posted several pictures.

http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=26957

[Dick Barthel]

Bruce,

Mine have been removed and aren't missed. When in sleep mode you can reach the shelves which is convenient and there are no back rest cushions to stow (e.g., trip over on the way to the head). You do need throw pillows though.

I am contemplating covering that exposed area with ash strips if I ever get around to it. I am also L-a-z-y.

Dick

[Andy Denmark]

Hi Dick,

This will give you an idea of how things look with the ash ceiling strips carried down. Did this on Rhiannon and it really enhanced the overall appearance down below.

If you tackle this project be sure to paint the panel behind with a color that approximates the color of the strips -- I used Mast Buff -- or the white panel behind shows through the cracks between the ceiling strips.



Hope this serves as inspiration!
________

[Steve Darwin]

Andy - Did you put vertical battens behind the ash slats, or did you screw right into the liner? - Steve

[Andy Denmark]

Thanks, Steve,

I should have spaced the ceiling strips away from the fiberglass but there was a structure there -- I guess to support the cabinetry somehow -- that I cut away and glassed over the hole. Just didn't think it through because it was the perfect opportunity. But I got so engrossed with glassing and fairing the liner that I totally forgot about spacing the strips away from it. If I were to do it over I would definitely do that.

The result isn't really that bad. There is some condensation in colder weather that sometimes finds its way onto bedding through the cracks. That's a minor inconvenience. My concern is that there might be some mold or mildew growing behind the ceilng that with so little ventilation might smell up the boat. So far, nothing, so it's probably okay as is. I put Anti-Mildew stuff in the paint under the strips and I guess that helps.

I lengthened the berth on the stbd side and had to scarf short pieces to the ceiling strips together to gain enough length. Other than cosmetic mismatches that seems to work out okay, too. The wider berths make a huge difference in sleeping comfort and two can actually sleep together in the stbd berth. It's a bit crowded but it sure is warmer in cold wx.

With this modification on both sides it's amazing how much roomier the boat is. I never miss the lower part of the back rests but storage suffers some --- but not nearly enough to offset the room gained.

FWIW
________
Toyota Sa History

[Dick Barthel]

Hi Dick,

This will give you an idea of how things look with the ash ceiling strips carried down. Did this on Rhiannon and it really enhanced the overall appearance down below.

If you tackle this project be sure to paint the panel behind with a color that approximates the color of the strips -- I used Mast Buff -- or the white panel behind shows through the cracks between the ceiling strips.

[img][img]http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... onPFwd.jpg[/img]

Hope this serves as inspiration![/img]

Beautiful Andy.

I've hired Steve Laume to do it for me hopefully this fall. He's a master carpenter so it will come out as it should. I'll do some of the grunt work. He talked about glassing in some faring strips because of the shape of the hull on the 25D in that area which will also serve to keep the strips away from the liner.

Perhaps Steve will add some of his first hand observations.

Thanks,

Dick

[Andy Denmark]

Dick,

I wouldn't glass in anything. If I were to do this again or if I have the need to redo it, I'd simply run some 1/4" X 2" fir strips vertically under the screw lines. Might epoxy them in place to make the job easier. It's an awful lot of trouble to do this in FRP. The other material I might use would be plastic 1-5/8" sail batten material in lieu of fir.

Just a thought.
________
VOLCANO CLASSIC VAPORIZER

[Tod Mills]

Another thing that can also be done is place some of that flexible thinsulite type closed cell foam in between the (vertical) furring strips for added insulation. If planning to do that, probably 1/2" thick furring strips would be good. If the furring strips don't want to make the bend easily, some small cuts on the backside (next to the hull) will help. I've seen the foam in a tan color that would probably blend in fairly well.

[Troy Scott]

Bruce,

It seems to me that the answer to whether to remove the backrest(s) might be different for a short vs. a tall person. Either way, you'll probably want some sort of cushions or pillows if you want to sit comfortably and read or whatever. I think you're just going to have to try it. If your backrests are made like the ones in my CD36, they are not difficult to remove or reinstall. The boat will probably feel "bigger", more "open" without them. As I recall, neither my CD22 nor my CD25 had them.

Look at photos of the interior of a stock Hinckley Pilot 35. That boat has sensible use of space. The backrests are also the fronts of storage areas, and to me it sits comfortably.

[Steve Laume]

I redid my V berth and main cabin area. There were two reasons I wanted to remove all the strips. One was to sand and refinish them, as they had gotten pretty dark. The other was to add insulation behind them. I used a foil coated bubble wrap sort of stuff. In some areas it could be added in several layers. This also has the added advantage of giving the strips some backing. I made the mistake of putting the strips directly over the foil in the V birth and it shows in places. In the main cabin I added a layer of black landscape fabric over the foil and it is invisible. At some point I will redo the V berth but it is a low priority as we only use it for stowage.

One thing I would highly recommend is that you pitch all the old screws and go with phillips heads as they are much easier to deal with in the tight spots.

I also gave the same treatment to the inside of my hanging locker. There was some nasty vinyl in there that was past it's prime. Here I need to add battens to fair the curves and give me enough space for screws without encountering the hull. It also allowed me to continue my insulation regime. The battens I made were 1/2" X 1" with a continuous series of kerfs on the back side so they would bend easily. These were glued to the hull liner and then a piece of glass tape was epoxied over them. This not only ensures that they will not come lose but also gives those little screws a good bite.

I need to post some pictures of the old hanging locker, which is now used for safety gear.

I never wear anything that needs to live on a hanger, Steve.

[Steve Bryant]

What is a good source for the ash strips that you used?