I just got a new sail from Super Sails made to the original specs, and now think my gaff is not right. The new sail has areinforceing patch 7' down from the peak. This would indicate the gaff should be 7' long.
The old rig that came with the boat has a gaff that is 10' same as the boom. My ancient nylon sail has no cringles on the luff to give a clue.
The old literature shows how the sail is rigged, but no dimensions on the spars. The pictures are not clear.
Does anyone have a measurement for the spaars, especially the gaff?
It would seem an advantage to reduce the size and weigh of the gaff? In fact, I am thinking of making a spruce spar to replace the heavy aluminum gaff. But, does the shorter gaff require much more of the lower luff to be floating on the mast?'
Thank s for your interest Ron Brassord Lighthouse Point Fl.
CD 14 Gaff size
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Steve Laume
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Numbah134
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Apr 9th, '10, 21:16
- Location: CD14 #134 (well, if the paperwork actually follows)
Ron,
I'll measure mine tomorrow or the next day. Is the basic size of the sail right? I wonder if they put the reenforcement about where the halyard attaches to the gaff? Don't know that it would help anything, but it seems like about the right spot. The old literature would have to have two diagrams to have dimensions, as the CD14 and CD10 rigs are not (to my understanding) the same size - length of spars, size of sail - diameters are the same, and I think Spartan basically has the CD14 size as a replacement (or says they do on the website) and you can cut it down for a CD10.
My (evidently original) old nylon sail does not have any such patch, to my best recollection, nor does it seem to have any damage indicating such a patch is needed - so perhaps just don't worry about it.
On a perhaps less than perfect measuring session prior to begging for old sails from a friend (that might be less old that what I have, but in need of cutting down since they have a bigger boat) I got the following measurements from my blue and white nylon sail: 10' foot, 16'-8" luff, and 18'-3" leech. As far as I recall the gaff and boom are about the same, so that's probably about 10'6" for the gaff without going and measuring it yet.
If you shorten the gaff without shortening the sail, you will be taking a good deal of the rigidity of the joint (which depends on having some length of overlap) out of the system, or simply asking to overstress and perhaps break it (shortening the lever-arm of the bottom section increases the force applied to it by the top section.)
I'll measure mine tomorrow or the next day. Is the basic size of the sail right? I wonder if they put the reenforcement about where the halyard attaches to the gaff? Don't know that it would help anything, but it seems like about the right spot. The old literature would have to have two diagrams to have dimensions, as the CD14 and CD10 rigs are not (to my understanding) the same size - length of spars, size of sail - diameters are the same, and I think Spartan basically has the CD14 size as a replacement (or says they do on the website) and you can cut it down for a CD10.
My (evidently original) old nylon sail does not have any such patch, to my best recollection, nor does it seem to have any damage indicating such a patch is needed - so perhaps just don't worry about it.
On a perhaps less than perfect measuring session prior to begging for old sails from a friend (that might be less old that what I have, but in need of cutting down since they have a bigger boat) I got the following measurements from my blue and white nylon sail: 10' foot, 16'-8" luff, and 18'-3" leech. As far as I recall the gaff and boom are about the same, so that's probably about 10'6" for the gaff without going and measuring it yet.
If you shorten the gaff without shortening the sail, you will be taking a good deal of the rigidity of the joint (which depends on having some length of overlap) out of the system, or simply asking to overstress and perhaps break it (shortening the lever-arm of the bottom section increases the force applied to it by the top section.)
Cats, Coffee, Chocolate - Vices to live by.
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Ron Brassord
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Nov 3rd, '05, 16:44
- Location: Cape Dory 22 Cd14s
CD14 gaff
I appreciate this help. I have two 14s I have restored and am rigging and want to get it right. One of the boats had what I was told was the original spars, and a friend sent me an old blue and white nylon sail for a pattern. They would indicate the gaff is a little over 10' as is the boom. My new sail made from the sailmakers data base matches the old nylon.
I do believe you are right on thinking the patch is a wear patch for the area where the halyasrd attaches [but is there a need for one?] The gaff has no fittings on it to tell me where the halyard connects, but it is in that vicinity.
So often the simple answer is staring at you? Ron B
I do believe you are right on thinking the patch is a wear patch for the area where the halyasrd attaches [but is there a need for one?] The gaff has no fittings on it to tell me where the halyard connects, but it is in that vicinity.
So often the simple answer is staring at you? Ron B
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Ron Brassord
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Nov 3rd, '05, 16:44
- Location: Cape Dory 22 Cd14s
CD14 gaff
As I get more into this. I question if I have the exact right length for the base mast. This would definately have an effect on halyard connection and boom height. Them old mast [original? ] that came with one boat measures 12 feet. Ropn B
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Numbah134
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Apr 9th, '10, 21:16
- Location: CD14 #134 (well, if the paperwork actually follows)
The exact length of the (or my) base mast (as far as I know the rig is original, and the CD14 is a very early one from Brockton):
The tube is 12' 0-1/8", it's 12' 2-1/2" to the top of the cast fitting.
The tube for the gaff is 11' 6-1/4" - the loop for the head of the sail is centered 1 inch from the top, the loop for the halyard is centered 94 inches from the top. From edge of tube, not end of plastic plug. This leaves over 3 feet of overlap, which I think/suspect is needed structurally. A grommet on the luff is attached to an eyebolt through the cast fitting (which also attaches the tube to the fitting) - ie, the top section of the luff is fixed at both ends of the gaff. All the other grommets either have the original plastic loops or have been replaced with rope loops. Since the halyard attaches on the side opposite the sail I'm not seeing anything a reenforcement patch would do for that spot (unless they fear wear from the "ears" of the mast fitting, perhaps?)
The tube for the boom is 10' 6-1/4" with the loop for the clew at 1 inch from the end, and the tack attached to an eyebolt through the cast fitting (which also attaches the tube to the fitting). The loops for the sheet blocks are at 6-1/4" and 39-3/8" from the clew end of the tube.
I don't think the gaff is all that heavy, and I'm dubious that a spruce one (adequately strong) would be lighter, but perhaps you could manage it. From reading Duckworks on-line articles, I gather that sailboard carbon-fiber masts (perhaps broken ones) are a good source for very lightweight spars, so you might look into that, if the weight really bothers you, and you can get one with a similar sized butt to go on the fitting.
Some discussion of the sliding gunter, and a trick that should permit reefing it reasonably (by "toggling" the gaff to the mast so it stays upright when not hauled all the way up.)
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/a ... /index.cfm
They rig the ropes differently, but this is a great discussion of the principles of the no-pin centerboard:
http://www.gaboats.com/tutorials/nopincenterboard.html
The tube is 12' 0-1/8", it's 12' 2-1/2" to the top of the cast fitting.
The tube for the gaff is 11' 6-1/4" - the loop for the head of the sail is centered 1 inch from the top, the loop for the halyard is centered 94 inches from the top. From edge of tube, not end of plastic plug. This leaves over 3 feet of overlap, which I think/suspect is needed structurally. A grommet on the luff is attached to an eyebolt through the cast fitting (which also attaches the tube to the fitting) - ie, the top section of the luff is fixed at both ends of the gaff. All the other grommets either have the original plastic loops or have been replaced with rope loops. Since the halyard attaches on the side opposite the sail I'm not seeing anything a reenforcement patch would do for that spot (unless they fear wear from the "ears" of the mast fitting, perhaps?)
The tube for the boom is 10' 6-1/4" with the loop for the clew at 1 inch from the end, and the tack attached to an eyebolt through the cast fitting (which also attaches the tube to the fitting). The loops for the sheet blocks are at 6-1/4" and 39-3/8" from the clew end of the tube.
I don't think the gaff is all that heavy, and I'm dubious that a spruce one (adequately strong) would be lighter, but perhaps you could manage it. From reading Duckworks on-line articles, I gather that sailboard carbon-fiber masts (perhaps broken ones) are a good source for very lightweight spars, so you might look into that, if the weight really bothers you, and you can get one with a similar sized butt to go on the fitting.
Some discussion of the sliding gunter, and a trick that should permit reefing it reasonably (by "toggling" the gaff to the mast so it stays upright when not hauled all the way up.)
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/a ... /index.cfm
They rig the ropes differently, but this is a great discussion of the principles of the no-pin centerboard:
http://www.gaboats.com/tutorials/nopincenterboard.html
Cats, Coffee, Chocolate - Vices to live by.
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Ron Brassord
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Nov 3rd, '05, 16:44
- Location: Cape Dory 22 Cd14s
Cd 14 gaff
Wow! Exactly what I was looking for. Your information tells me the one set of old spars are truly to original dimensions and I can build from them.
Actually we have three old CD14s that are in various stages of renovation. One is now complete with the addition of a new sail [that we are now sure is accurate].
These are unique boats that do everything well, sail ,row, and motor. One we have set up with raised oarlock bases and carbon fiber oars for fixed seat rowing that is slick.
The "wear patch" on the new sail will remain a mystery but who cares. Our next sail order will eliminate it.
I completely agree with all your information and educated opinions, and thank you for keeping us on the right course.
Ron B
Actually we have three old CD14s that are in various stages of renovation. One is now complete with the addition of a new sail [that we are now sure is accurate].
These are unique boats that do everything well, sail ,row, and motor. One we have set up with raised oarlock bases and carbon fiber oars for fixed seat rowing that is slick.
The "wear patch" on the new sail will remain a mystery but who cares. Our next sail order will eliminate it.
I completely agree with all your information and educated opinions, and thank you for keeping us on the right course.
Ron B