Teak: Oil Now and Varnish or Cetol Later?

[Evan]

Is it reasonable to plan on giving the stripped and sanded teak on my CD25 a couple of coats of teak oil now, and to varnish or cetol the teak later on in the season when (1) I have more time and when (2) I've made a decision re: cetol vs. varnish? Will oiling the teak now present any problems with using cetol or varnish in, say, August? Will I have to sand down the (oiled) teak again before refinishing? Any advice much appreciated!

Evan
s/v CHLOE
CD25



eeames@aol.com

[don S.]

I cleaned and oiled my teak last year at this time. The boat was ready for the CD Hall of Fame it looked so good. By July it was becoming a mess and had to be re-cleaned (2-part) again. I think you can varnish over the oil, don't know about Cetol, but you can't leave it go for any length of time before the bacteria starts its thing.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
TeakGuarded in Greenwich Cove

Is it reasonable to plan on giving the stripped and sanded teak on my CD25 a couple of coats of teak oil now, and to varnish or cetol the teak later on in the season when (1) I have more time and when (2) I've made a decision re: cetol vs. varnish? Will oiling the teak now present any problems with using cetol or varnish in, say, August? Will I have to sand down the (oiled) teak again before refinishing? Any advice much appreciated!

Evan
s/v CHLOE
CD25

[Evan]

Thanks, Ron. How involved is the 2-part teak cleaning process anyway?

Evan
s/v CHLOE
CD25

Eeames@aol.com

[Bill Goldsmith]

The two-part teak cleaner is easy to use but precautions must be taken. You should use gloves and a mask and goggles. You first get old varnish off by scraping or sanding. Don't sand too much away just to get rid of the gray--the cleaner will get all the gray. Apply part A with a scrub brush and the teak will turn almost black. Then neutralize Part A by scrubbing in Part B with a diffrent brush which then turns the teak blonde. Flush with copious amounts of water. The teak will dry a beautiful blonde. If the teak is really dirty, a second cycle might help.

Be careful using the stuff around paint. On mine, some of the part A dripped onto the bottom (while hauled) and took off portions of the bottom paint.

Definitely worth the effort as it minimizes sanding and creates a fresh surface for the new finish. Depending on the finish you choose, you may never have to clean the teak again.

Bill
Goldsmith
CD27 #173
Second Chance

Thanks, Ron. How involved is the 2-part teak cleaning process anyway?

Evan
s/v CHLOE
CD25

goldy@bestweb.net

[Don S.]

Two part works best. You need a lot of water, however, to keep all the surrounding area wet. Wearing rubber gloves, put #1 on wet wood, scrub with a brush getting down into the grain, the wood turns dark brown and gummy, apply #2 and scrub with a different brush, the wood turn gold -- almost instantly -- very satisfying. Keep everything well flooded with water so as not to stain the fiberglass etc. Apparently this is not a job you need or want to do regularly, but it's the best way to get the teak back to a workable state. Maintenance is the answer after that.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~

Thanks, Ron. How involved is the 2-part teak cleaning process anyway?

Evan
s/v CHLOE
CD25

[Don S.]

Two part works best. You need a lot of water, however, to keep all the surrounding area wet. Wearing rubber gloves, put #1 on wet wood, scrub with a brush getting down into the grain, the wood turns dark brown and gummy, apply #2 and scrub with a different brush, the wood turns gold -- almost instantly -- very satisfying. Keep everything well flooded with water so as not to stain the fiberglass etc. Apparently this is not a job you need or want to do regularly, but it's the best way to get the teak back to a workable state. Maintenance is the answer after that.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~

Thanks, Ron. How involved is the 2-part teak cleaning process anyway?

Evan
s/v CHLOE
CD25

[sloopjohnl]

scrub only hard enough to clean the teak and use a brush just stiff enough to do the cleaning. lots of elbow grease and a very stiff brush will result in very raised grain on the teak.

The two-part teak cleaner is easy to use but precautions must be taken. You should use gloves and a mask and goggles. You first get old varnish off by scraping or sanding. Don't sand too much away just to get rid of the gray--the cleaner will get all the gray. Apply part A with a scrub brush and the teak will turn almost black. Then neutralize Part A by scrubbing in Part B with a diffrent brush which then turns the teak blonde. Flush with copious amounts of water. The teak will dry a beautiful blonde. If the teak is really dirty, a second cycle might help.

Be careful using the stuff around paint. On mine, some of the part A dripped onto the bottom (while hauled) and took off portions of the bottom paint.

Definitely worth the effort as it minimizes sanding and creates a fresh surface for the new finish. Depending on the finish you choose, you may never have to clean the teak again.

Bill
Goldsmith
CD27 #173
Second Chance

Thanks, Ron. How involved is the 2-part teak cleaning process anyway?

[Don Carr]

I also oiled the teak at the beginning of last season. Also bythe end of July it was a mess. I then used the Te-Ka 2 part teak cleanerand removed all the oil. I then Cetol'd the teak with the 3 coats. It came out great and this year just had to touch up a couple of spots. Outside of the 'orangey' color the stuff is great. I like to sail and the reduced brightwork maintenance that the Cetol buys me lets me do that.



carrd48@netzero.net