Removing and re-bedding Ports

John Hpiller · Post by **John Hpiller** » Jun 10th, '10, 08:45

Hello all,

Well I am making progress on Callinectes (CD27) but have much to do in the next 5 weeks.

I am tackling the ports (I hope I should be doing this) as 2 have evidence of leaking (water/green stain from interior machine screw sites) AND I am painting the decks/house.

I have read the old posts and hope this isn't too redundant. There are a number of different approaches and I would be VERY grateful if someone would run me through a tried and true approach to how best to pull, service, and re-bed the ports.

Thank you so much.

John

Bill Goldsmith · Post by **Bill Goldsmith** » Jun 11th, '10, 08:13

John,

I have never removed a port in 11 years and two Cape Dorys. I recall reading that it is a very, very difficult job to remove them. Have you ruled out a leak in the rubber gasket? They get old and dry after a while. Coating them with Vaseline is an effective way of getting a couple more years out of them--it helps seal the glass and softens the gasket. Even replacing the rubber gasket is MUCH easier than removing the port.

Zeida · Post by **Zeida** » Jun 11th, '10, 08:27

I just replaced all 10 of my neoprene rubber porthold gaskets on Bandolera. What a job that was... actually not that bad once I got started and got the hang of it. Did all 10 in 2 days. They were old, hard and brittle and leaking, having left water stains in the wood right under them and drips on the cushions.

Tested the new ones with strong water stream from my hose... they do not leak! Victory. FWIW... I use talc powder on the gaskets to preserve them, not vaseline. Told to me by a boatbuilder.

Bill Goldsmith · Post by **Bill Goldsmith** » Jun 11th, '10, 09:07

Thanks Zeida,

I never heard of using talc. I think I'll try that, and also mixing some talc into some vaseline (kind of like a belt-and-suspenders approach!!!!)

sealark · Post by **sealark** » Jun 11th, '10, 09:16

I think it depends on what you are calling "rebedding" and "removing" the ports.

I just rebedded (what I call rebedding) all the ports on my 28 - and it was a fairly easy job. I never actually REMOVED the port.

I was getting leaking around the frame - not the gasket.

I removed the exterior bronze ring by simply removing the screws. In my case - this was pretty easy - the bedding was in bad shape. I primarily used a larger flat blade putty knife to loosen the bond in the spots it was still sealed.

Once removed - I cleaned all the old bedding from the exterior of the hull around the port - and all the old bedding from the back of the trim ring.

After they were totally cleaned - I reinstalled them using a healthy bead of marine grade silicone - applied to both the back of the trim ring and around the frame of the port. I used silicone versus something like 4200 upon the recomendation of a friend.

Cleaned everything up - and good as new.

I will say - I had to replace some of the gaskets also - but my primary problem was water coming in around the frame of the port.

In my situation - the ports that were leaking due to the gasket typically had water dripping from the port knob - where as the ones that needed rebedding had water leaking from under the frame of the port where it touches the interior liner.

Hope this helps.

Kevin

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Jun 11th, '10, 09:40

Kevin is correct. Removing the actual port is a huge pain, but just rebedding them is very easy to do since you only need to remove the exterior trim ring, not the actual port. Do not be intimidated by this job, it is not difficult at all.

I will also recommend using silicone, that is what CD origonally used and on most of our boats it last for 20 or more years, no need to spend the extra money on 4200 or similar products or invite the potential issues associated with them.

In addition to Kevins steps, I recommend once all the old silicone is removed from the trim ring, soak the ring in vinigar to remove the patina. If its been leaking its likely patina will have developed on areas that will prevent the bedding from adhering. A vinigar soak then a quick scrub with a green scrubby pad will clean it up quickly and easily.

John Hpiller · Post by **John Hpiller** » Jun 11th, '10, 09:59

Thanks all for the input.

4 out and 2 to go!!
The first was a bear...but then I got the hang of it and it is going well now. Glad I am doing it (though not really enjoying the process) as all machine screws have significant corrosion from the leak and I will feel better having them replaced. Definitely a good idea to stay on top of this and just re-bed the exterior frame.

Happy to discuss how or will post A to Z when done with all and the accumulated knowledge is complete

I am considering glass bead blasting...(will try vinegar etc first) and wondering has anyone removed the glass from the frame? Or does one just try to protect the glass? I do not see any problem with this bedding...but I guess now is "the time to do it" if there is a good reason why to? (I am assuming these are sealed with silicone too and if the frame bedding is failing, are these next?)

Jim Buck · Post by **Jim Buck** » Jun 11th, '10, 11:19

I removed all the ports on my 22D and bead blasted them without removing the glass. When I was ready to blast, I applied two overlapping layers of duct tape to both sides of the glass and trimmed it carefully to the shape of the glass using a box cutter with a fresh razor blade. I'm very pleased with the results. Hope this helps.

sfreihofer · Post by **sfreihofer** » Jun 15th, '10, 22:34

I removed all the ports on my CD25. I took off the outer trim ring, removed all the bronze machine screws and PM nuts.

Beware: I was unable to find replacement bronze PM nuts or oval head machine screws of the correct size. I had to settle for flathead bronze machine screws and standard nuts. Realistically, you must replace all of the machine screws and nuts because they are cut flush when installed, and the thickness of the cabin varies, so the screws are all different lengths.

After all the screws were out, I cleaned out what sealant I could, then put a 2x4 over the port outside and smacked it with a rubber mallet until it broke loose. Be careful not to allow it to fall out... the glass could break.

I then cleaned them up with an abrasive wheel from WalMart. You can see the results at: http://www.reefroof.com/restored.htm

I didn't replace the glass (thank goodness)... I cleaned it with Mother's Aluminum and Mag Polish in the automotive section at WalMart. Use a buffing wheel. If you must replace the glass, use only tempered glass.

Stan Freihofer
1981 CD 25 #794
Ft. Lauderdale

Ron M. · Post by **Ron M.** » Jun 16th, '10, 07:59

I had good luck using bronze 'jamb' nuts to replace the pm's. They are much thinner. A few had to be ground a bit, but it wasn't a big deal.
I got them from Jamestown Dist.
________
Marijuana Test

John Hpiller · Post by **John Hpiller** » Jun 16th, '10, 08:03

Mine are all out
I came up with a little bit of a different way to remove them...will post later, I am running right now to the sand blast guy.

BTW...how have people delt with the hard (?polyester) compound that fills the space between the deck house and liner? It is cracked and a few hunks missing. I plan to clean up the loose stuff and fill with epoxy putty unless someone has other thoughts...

sfreihofer · Post by **sfreihofer** » Jun 16th, '10, 22:32

John Hpiller wrote:Mine are all out

BTW...how have people delt with the hard (?polyester) compound that fills the space between the deck house and liner? It is cracked and a few hunks missing. I plan to clean up the loose stuff and fill with epoxy putty unless someone has other thoughts...

That's what I did.

Jim Buck · Post by **Jim Buck** » Jun 17th, '10, 15:41

I called Robinhood and they put me through to Paul at Spartan who had the original screws and PM nuts. That was a year ago and they may still have them.

John Hpiller · Post by **John Hpiller** » Jun 17th, '10, 16:20

They do.
I am replacing the screws as they are different lengths and basically you put er in and cut er off.

Saved all the PM nuts, but getting a few extra just in case.

Did not remove the glass. Paul says this is very tough to do, breaking glass real possibility, and getting the old bedding out of the bronze in a pain (though I guess sand blasting would make quick work of even that).

Regarding removing the ports. Here is how I went about it.

First score around the outer ring with exacto blade. Go both around edge and between the inner and outer ring. Then using a wood chisel, I pressed under the ring at the area where the largest bedding gap was (chisel bevel down) and then gently pry...Once it starts to let go, take a second chisel and repeat, working your way around.

For the entire port, repeat the process on the inside. I was able to do all without scratching the walls up. This approach seems easier to do and less likely to damage something than the banging method. I think a puller like Troy suggested is also good idea. BTW..most of PM nuts will stay in place held by bedding. I found it easier to take all the screws out in the beginning than to try to chisel the sikaflex off then have to put a wrench on that little nut!

Going to repair the areas between house and liner with 3m vinyl ester putty (per Paul at Robinhood...good guy and very helpful).

On we go.

(Still trying to decide what to do re head. Ah the things to think about while chiseling putty or trying to sleep. I like the idea of Lavac with holding tank right behind the head (like Stan Freihofer's restoration) anyone else done this on 27?...may start a new thread)

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Jun 17th, '10, 17:51

What are PM Nuts? Post Menopausal crazed men?

Sri, but inquiring minds want to know!

Fair Winds

The Cape Dory Board

Removing and re-bedding Ports

Removing and re-bedding Ports

Rebedding Ports

RE: bead blasting portlights

PM nuts

RE: bronze screws and PM nuts

Ok I gotta ask