Exterior teak prep

[MFC]

I have cleaned my exterior teak and am sanding it. I am encountering two problems.

First, I am finding it exceptionally difficult to get the very last streaks of gray out of the wood. The cleaner and brightener didn't remove them and while heavy sanding is getting some of them it is not removing all. Should I clean the teak again (uhg)? Brighten it again? Keep sanding (double uhg!)? Semco won't cover these marks. Will Cetol?

Second, I have some dark black stains reappearing near the bungs in the toe rail. What is the preferred method for removal?

Finally, I am still undecided on the finish. I may try cetol on some of the exterior and just use semco for the rail. I know Cetol calls for 3-4 coats 24 hours apart. How many coats do I need to get on before it is safe to expose to rain (it is tough to get a full week of clear weather in the spring here in the NE).

Thanks!

Matt

[Warren Kaplan]

Just remember if you use Cetol.....if any gets on your gelcoat you have to wipe it up IMMEDIATELY or you'll get very bad almost permanent stains.

And make sure you DON'T go to the extra precaution of taping everything first, like you are supposed to. Why? Because if the Cetol finds its way under the tape you won't know it until its too late!! I have very frustrating evidence of that where my worst stains are in areas that I VERY CARDFULLY taped. Most people apply cetol and have plenty of moist clothes (with or without a little acetone) available to wipe up spills immediately!!

I know this isn't directly to your question but it is important to know when deciding what to choose.

[Markst95]

The Cetol marine natural teak is a much nicer color than the original Cetol.

[MFC]

Will the Cetol cover those last bits of grey or will it look horrible? How many coats of the Cetol Light do I need to get on before it can take rain?
Thanks,
Matt

[Steve Laume]

I just did this for the first time on Raven.

Cetol will mask those last bits pretty well along with the natural beauty of the wood itself. Life is a compromise. I only used Cetol because I know myself well enough to know that a varnish finish would not recieve to proper upkeep and would soon look worse than Cetol in good condition. It was a lot less work to apply as well.

I did tape everything with blue tape and had very little creep under the tape. The trick here seems to be sealing the edge next to the wood. After I laid down the tape I pressed it down hard on the hear edge with a rag or the back side of a curved knife blade.

The Cetol should seal the wood well enough to keep rain water from reentering the wood after the first coat. I went through a couple of rain cycles and the only problem I had was a softening of the tape and adheasive residue left on the gel coat. I was able to remove this with some paint thinner and a few paper towels. This was far easier to deal with than constantly re-taping everything.

I am good with a brush but found it much easier to tape than cut in, Steve.

[Doug Gibson]

Hi Matt -

I stripped and finished the cockpit and cabin top wood 3 years ago with Cetol Natural Teak (3 coats) and Cetol clear (3 coats) and am very happy with its appearance and how its held up. I apply 1 maintenance coat of Cetol clear each spring after a light sanding.

I wasn't able to apply a coat every day, but did so over a few weeks. The only different is that you need to rough up the surface with a scotch pad or very fine sandpaper (330). You might want to put an extra coat of each if you do need to sand between coats.

I have had good results using a two-step teak cleaner (like teka). It's pretty nasty stuff, but it does a great job getting rid of the grey appearance and any black mold/mildew. (better than the oxalic acid cleaners). I'm now working on my toe rails which are heavily weathered and very rough. I first sanded with 80 or 100 grit to get the grain smooth. This required quite a bit of material removal, but not enough to sand through the screw plugs. Then I use the two part teak cleaner which will raise up the grain again. Final sanding with 180-220 paper before applying Cetol.

[gates_cliff]

Any comments on Cetol vs Epiphanes? I redid the teak plate around the tiller tube with Ephiphanes and it's held up well. Now, I deaparately need to to do the rest of the woodwork. Unfortunately, I have to be out of town the whole month of June on business so won't get any work done.

[Como No Cruising]

We have found that we have almost nil bleed thru when we use the 3-M Blue (Scotch) brand tape-----The key for us is to use popsicle sticks to rub down the edges of the tape. We bought the sticks in a package of 100 several years ago. Still have some left. Be diligent.

Likewise, we will try the Honey Teak this year--on the cockpit coamings. Stripping down the toe rails is not in this years plan.

Will

[SPIBob]

Matt,

To your first question: No, Cetol will not cover any marks or discoloring in the teak. Especially with the new and very much improved Natural Teak Cetol.

To the second: The stains around bungs are usually deep and difficult to remove completely. I think of them as adding character and interest to the teak.

Thirdly: I have had good results with two coats of Cetol Natural Teak followed by two coats of Gloss. But this is on top of at least one and sometimes two coats of teak oil. These days I'm using Watco (as I remember) teak oil that I got at home depot.

Moisture resistance for newly applied Cetol depends on temp, humidity, sunshine and time after putting it on. With conditions that promote fast drying, maybe six to eight hours after the coat---whether it's the first, third or whatever---and it will stand up to moisture. In conditions that slow down drying time, you're looking at twelve hours or more. To be safe, gently wipe up any water that beads up on newly applied Cetol for 24 hrs.

[rtbates]

Not to worry after a few years of Cetol everything underneath will be hidden by a dark brown tp black top coat...

[Clay Stalker]

If you do a search in the archives you will find an incredible number of very informative discussion about this. It is one of the most debated topics ever on this board.

[kerlandsen]

If you do a search in the archives you will find an incredible number of very informative discussion about this. It is one of the most debated topics ever on this board.

I just put 7 coats of epifanes on the Sea Sprite, ex yankee Lady. Looks great.

Kyle

[MFC]

If you do a search in the archives you will find an incredible number of very informative discussion about this. It is one of the most debated topics ever on this board.

Hi Clay -
I asked a couple of pretty specific questions about removal and / or covering of the remaining silver and about the time and number of coats cetol needed before it could be exposed to rain water. I did search extensively for discussions on this board and elsewhere before posting. With an exception or two, the thread moved pretty quickly away from my questions to the cetol debate but that's just the nature of the beast I suppose.
Best,
Matt

[Clay Stalker]

Matt-

Glad the board was helpful to you....it always has been a wonderful resource for me. And you are fortunate to be sailing a CD330....if I ever get back to the ocean (there's always a chance) that boat will be on my short list.

Regards,

Clay

[ckelly]

>I think it was Don Casey (SAILBOAT REFINISHING) who said AJAX had many of the same ingredients as teak cleaner. I tried it with a soft brush and it worked great on teak.

>I used West Marine Wood Pro Plus with good results on teak. The color is great similar to varnish. The Epiphanies person at the Epiphanies 800 # told me it was made by Epiphanies and was the same as Epiphanies plus it is cheaper. Also you can put 3 coats in a good day and you do not have to sand between coats

>I also used Honey Teak on a previous boat. I think it may be the best. Very durable. A little bit reddish though.

>Chris[/b]