Water entering at top of rudder shaft

[Joe Myerson]

Uh-oh!

I just brought Creme Brulee to her mooring (under power, we had guests arriving).

During the short trip from the yard, I noticed that if I pushed the boat hard (2200 rpm, 6.25 kts on the log), water started coming into the cockpit around the top of the shaft that leads to the rudder.

Something tells me this is NOT good.

Any suggestions?

--Joe

[Neil Gordon]

Don't ask me for details, but it's normal and of no concern. Norm LeBlanc was on board for my sea trial, he commented on it without concern and it was not noted as a survey item.

(We're talking trickles, Joe... if you have more than that, forget the above.)

[Russell]

If there is no stuffing box for the rudder, then this would be expected due to the squat caused by running the engine, especially if trying to push the boat past hull speed (running at high revs).

If there is a stuffing box, it needs repacking.

[Oswego John]

Hi Joe,

Creme Brulee, moving along smartly at 6.25 knts, is pretty respectable. At that speed, what's happening is that your stern is squatting lower than normal and the top of the rudder-post tube is probably lower than the water line.

As Neil mentioned, this happens. Sometimes at higher speeds or with extra crew than normal aboard. If it doesn't happen during normal single hand cruising, I wouldn't sweat the issue too much.

Off hand, there are two things that come to mind to stop the dribble (hoping that's all it is).

You can wrap some flax packing around the rudder post and tamp it down into the tube.

If aesthetics don't keep you awake all night, there is a plumbing fitting that could be used. It should cost less than $5.00 USD. It is called a Fernco coupling. Ferncos type fittings come in many sizes. They also have reducers to accommodate different sized pipes. There is a built in SS clamp to tighten around the pipes. The fitting is made of a flexible rubberlike composition. Other companies make the same type fitting.

As a rule, plumbing fitting sizes are denoted according to the ID (inside diameter) of the pipe being used. The outside diameter of your rudder post is the same or very close to the inner diameter of the tube. Here,'s where you have to pay attention.

You want to measure the OD of your tube. You will have to get a Fernco type reducer that the lower half will slide around the outside of the tube. The upper portion will most likely be one size smaller to accommodate the rudder post. If it is too snug around the post, the upper, inner half can be abraded to provide a better fit. You should only tighten the lower half. The upper clamp tightness can be adjusted for friction.

A fitting like this will raise the top level of the tube's water discharge several inches higher than the previous height.

http://www.buyplumbing.net/index.html?_ ... OVNDID=ND2

Have fun,
O J
I don't know why my posting came out so wide.

[Joe Myerson]

Neil and OJ:

Thanks for the assurance, I think.

I plan to sail tomorrow, rather than push the boat to get onto the mooring, so I'll see if the water continues.

The yard just re-packed a stuffing box, but I assumed that was around the prop shaft (they were replacing the oil-pressure sensor on the 1GM).

If the trickle continues, or turns into more of a stream, I'll be back at the yard again.

--Joe

[John Vigor]

Relax, Joe, it happened to my CD25D and my CD27. It means nothing. As others have pointed out, it only happens at speed, when the stern starts to squat and the top of your rudder tube gets below sea level.

I dealt with my rudder tube leaks simply by squishing Morey's Red grease down into the crack with my fingers. It lasts about half a season and then you have to do it again. Messy, but effective.

Cheers,

John V.

[Joe Myerson]

John V.:

Thank you for your reassurance.

I've never had this happen before, and the thought of water seeping, however slowly, into the cockpit, down the little channel and out the scupper, was kind of scary. However, I have a small tube of white lithium grease in my tool kit, so I could probably give it a squirt--assuming, of course, that it will work like your trusted Morey's Red.

--Joe

[Neil Gordon]

... the thought of water seeping, however slowly, into the cockpit, down the little channel and out the scupper, was kind of scary.

Not as scary as when water's coming in and not going out the scupper!

As for Morey's Red, my one tube will last several lifetimes of sea cock maintenance, etc. I'm happy to share a few globs with you next time you're in the neighborhood.

[Loren]

My CD27 does the same thing while motoring. The bottom end of the fiberglass tube that acts as a bushing for the rudder post is angled back and with wear over the years there is enough space so that the prop forces water up the tube. I believe that the top of the tube is not below water level as it is an inch or so above the cockpit sole. If there was that much squat water would probably be coming up through the scuppers.
I have stopped the flow (as it is annoying when motoring for long distances like on the ICW) I wrap the top of the rudder post with a strip of old bicycle innertube about 3/4 inch wide. I try to pull it into the gap and then down over the top of the tube. It is secured with a hose clamp and then wrapped with electrical tape. It holds for more than a season.

Good luck,
Loren

[Jimbo]

Before I splashed this season I pushed seacock grease Into the bottom of the rudder tube. Good so far.

[Jerry Albright]

Joe,

Had the same thing happen to me when I changed props on a former CD27. I made a couple of wraps around the top of the rudder post with cheap white cotton string and covered it with white lithium grease, it stoped the leak and lasted for 6 months or so.

Smooth Sailing
Jerry Albright