CD25 dinghy stowage

[Brian2]

I think I used Micron CSC the first time, (not sure, I can check next weekend) one coat of blue, two coats black. I split the cost with my neighbor, who also purchased a WB 10. Every year since, I have just used some black single season ablative, no problem.

I did call Walker Bay for advice prior to painting; you should do the same. I never hesitate to call manufacturers for advice. I have called Groco for advice on rebuilding the head, and for advice on what type of grease to use on a Groco seacock (after an employee at West Marine told me not to grease a bronze seacock with a stainless ball.) I always get the same guy at Groco, he is super nice and helpful. I have also called Standard Horizon (always get one of two tech guys there), and Furuno. All techs have been great, even patient, as I usually ask the same question three times to be sure I got it correct. My impression has been that the companies appreciate the calls, and like customers taking an interest.

I believe WB also told me to scuff the bottom, which I did, very lightly, with a palm sander. Even the places I didn't scuff had good adherence. After many years, my bottom has scrapes and gouges from landing on rocky beaches, but has not been eaten away from bottom paint.

But please, call WB to confirm/get advice straight from them, in case I am rememberiing incorrectly. It was years ago.

Brian

[Steve Laume]

You could repair the hole by making plates for both sides then bolting them in place with sealant.

To make the plates conform to the hull, lay on some wax paper then build up some glass and let it set. You would have to do this for both sides with the boat turned over to work on each one. After you have made the plates they will pull right off the wax paper. You can then trim the edges and smooth them up a bit and drill some fastening holes. A generous application of sealant of choice and bolt everything in place.

It might not be the prettiest repair from all points of view but I doubt if it would ever leak, Steve,

[Joe Myerson]

Brian,

I did call WB, right after I bought the boat. They told me that the solvent in paint wouldn't "eat" through the hull, but they also doubted that any conventional paint would work.

They also suggested I contact E-paint, a local maker of environmentally friendly antifouling paints. E-paint sent me a test sample, which I applied.

It came off in sheets.

I've never tried again. That was years ago--and E-paint has been sold.

Since the WB is sufficiently scratched, I should try it again with conventional paint.

--Joe

[Jay B.]

The patch might be the way to go, but I still want to investigate welding a poly patch in. Make it look factory like.

[Jay B.]

The previous owner painted mine with ablative paint. It is flaking off pretty bad. Enough to look really bad, and make a big mess when I washed the boat. I wish I could remove all that too.

[Joe Myerson]

Since I already put two coats of wax on the WB before reading Brian's post, I'll just do battle with the barnacles and tunicates (ughhhhh!) for another season.

Next season, I'll try paint.

--Joe

[Brian2]

Joe,

I was correct and orginally I used three coats of Interlux Micron CSC. Now I paint it with a one season ablative. The dinghy is in the water for 12 or 13 weeks, and gets almost daily use. I haven't had any adhesion problems with the paint.

Brian

[Joe Myerson]

n/m

[Alan Holman]

If you're looking for a way to keep your dingy from mucking up your gelcoat you might want to try my brother's solution. He took three of those long skinny foam 'bananas' that the kids use when they're at the beach, you can find anywhere they sell beach balls, etc. He ran one banana along each side, right where the rub rails are, and the other he wrapped around the bow, near the top. He drilled small holes, just below the rub rails and fastened them on with cable ties, be sure to get the black cable ties that are uv proof. This system protects his boat and helps keep the dingy from taking water over the side.