CD 27 restoration project

[John Hpiller]

Hi all!

I have owned a CD 27 since 1988 (the 2nd owner). She has had regular maintenance though a bit neglected the past few years due to life etc. I did a full bottom job in 1998 and rebuilt the engine. The interior was redone as well around 8-9 years ago including a new panel and stove.

I am ready to get after her again, planning a trip up the coast from Savannah to Washington DC this summer with my 15 year old daughter. We will be living on the boat a few weeks while there.

There is much to do! A brief list follows and I welcome any suggestions as experience is a "dear school" and I would love to avoid any unnecessary learning...

*clean and care for Teak...the "Honey Teak" applied to new toe rail 6 years ago is toast...I may varnish this time...

*I would like to paint the deck. I plan on removing all hardware and using a two part system. Perhaps Algrip? Any suggestions? I will replace the teak around the hatch, hand grips, and trim.

*In removing "all" hardware I include the ports. They are not leaking, but gaskets need replacing. I have removed ports before and had a bit of trouble getting a good seal replacing them, but this was a different maker. Hopefully this will go better. Has anyone done this? Do you agree with removing them for the paint? The glass does not leak, but should I do something preventatively? Would you make them all purdee and shiny again? If so what is your secret to doing this?

*The fore hatch lens caulk has dried out...will remove, repaint frame and reseal lens. I do NOT plan on removing the main frame as I have heard this can be a bear. If you disagree, please say so. It would make the painting better and I would hate to develop a new leak there due to failing caulk.

*Ok...now what about AC. Living on board in DC in August could be a tad stifling? Has anyone installed AC? Thoughts and suggestions?

* Awe what the heck, as long as I am going nutts here...what about refrigeration? I have actually always been happy with ice and lean away from this.

Thanks all.
John

[Oswego John]

The first thing that I noticed was that you are thinking of using Awl Grip on cabin top and deck surfaces.

Yeah, it sure looks "purty" but I have doubts using it on decks. You look at it crosseyed and it blemishes. I would think that you would use a finish that would stand up better to daily wear and tear.

Just my $.02 USD
O J

[John Hpiller]

The first thing that I noticed was that you are thinking of using Awl Grip on cabin top and deck surfaces.

Yeah, it sure looks "purty" but I have doubts using it on decks. You look at it crosseyed and it blemishes. I would think that you would use a finish that would stand up better to daily wear and tear.

Just my $.02 USD
O J

Thanks. I am OPEN to suggestions!

[tartansailor]

IMHO: Spray Imron.

Excellent wear, superior gloss, and it can be buffed.

It is almost impossible to buff Awlgrip without ruining it.

Dick

[John Hpiller]

Can Imron be brushed?
While I do have a professional sprayer...I have not sprayed Imron and where I can do this is an issue.

[John Hpiller]

Anyone have experience removing the ports?

Putting AC on this boat?
.....maybe a removable shelf over the head...and a small portable unit vented out the dorade ? Would be a little hassle to move to use the head, but for a temporary set up maybe more simple than installing something in the forward hatch? The dedicated marine units seem prohibitively expensive, but I would like to hear if someone has done this too. The Glacer Bay system is fascinating (one unit runs refrig/freezer, and AC?!) but wow they are very proud of them!!

[Steve Laume]

The nice thing about spraying aside from the excellent results is that it is fast. I believe the deck would be fairly easy to spray because the are not that may vertical surfaces where it could sag or run. There are not huge expanses where keeping a wet edge would be a major issue either.

My dad used to spry autos in a shop that didn't have the best of dust control. He always used lacquer back then because we (I) could buff out any imperfections. There is a tremendous advantage to any finish that you can buff after it is applied.

It sounds like you have a lot of work ahead of you before the summer cruise.

I finally did the bright work on Raven. I waited five years with gray Teak because I knew that while I may have had enough time to apply finish, I was not going to be able to commit to it's maintained. I have always built up varnish on other boats but made the huge compromise of using Cetol on Raven. 3 to 4 coats with no sanding vs 7 to 10 with a light sanding between coats. It looks no where near as good as varnish but I might be able to stay on top of it. Well maintained it will look better than pealing varnish.

We have no refrigeration on Raven and it is not even on the distant list. If you are going to be at a dock with access to power and grocery stores it would seem like you could get by without. An alternative might be one of those self contained refrigerated coolers for the few items you might want to keep cold without ice.

I don't know if any of this helps you. It is more a personal perspective on my part.

Summer in the city with your daughter could be a very memorable experience, Steve.

[K_LeMans]

I removed both hatches from my 30c about six years ago. It wasn't that difficult. I used Boatlife Release to soften the bedding compound after removing the frame screws and with a thin putty knife got it under the frame. No big deal.

IMHO, don't waste your time painting the frames. I had mine powder coated with a marine grade product (along with the traveler bridge) and they still look new. You will have to remove the support arms, and the bolts attaching them to the frame will be completely frozen, but with patience and chemicals they can be removed.

You can order new gasket material for the frame(s) from Bomar (Pompanette.com). And I would recommend replacing the polycarbonate glazing while you are at it. The old stuff must be pretty tired by now. It's not expensive.

[Russell]

DC in august will indeed be painful without air conditioning, but permanent install on a CD27? You will be giving up a lot of your precious storage space, I wouldnt even consider it. DC is full of wonderful museams that are free and air conditioned for spending your days in!

I assume you plan to stay at gangplank marina? Thats about your only option in DC. The marina is full of liveaboards and you will see how almost all of them have retrofitted window AC units to fit in their companionway or on one of their hatches.

[John Hpiller]

I removed both hatches from my 30c about six years ago. It wasn't that difficult. I used Boatlife Release to soften the bedding compound after removing the frame screws and with a thin putty knife got it under the frame. No big deal.

IMHO, don't waste your time painting the frames. I had mine powder coated with a marine grade product (along with the traveler bridge) and they still look new. You will have to remove

Thx...who did your powder coating?

[K_LeMans]

Powder coating:

West Coast Powder Coating
www.westcoastpowdercoating.com
165 Mitchell Avenue, S San Francisco - (650) 871-0400

But keep in mind that there are powder coating companies everywhere.

Best,

[mattlydon]

You could make a 'temporary' hatchboard with a cutout for a small conventional carry'n'cool type air conditioner, and only use it overnight, right in the companionway when you bed down for the night.

[Ray Garcia]

• I had the forward hatch powder coated and I replaced the lens with a clear "Green" clear lexan to brighten things up below.
  Varnished the coamings and dorade box.
  I left the rubrails natural, no sealers.
  I have not painted the topside but, I am tempted.

I was thinking of using a freestanding portable air conditioner. Walmart happens to have one for around $300 and is relatively small. (L x W x H) 13.12 x 17.93 x 24.37
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product. ... ewTitleBar

[cguthrie]

I have the same boat as you, and I have started using the Cetol natural teak color on the toerail. It's been good so far and doesn't look orange. The rest I do with varnish -- I started that when I first bought the boat and every task was a new joy. Now I am getting tired of that and may gradually move entirely to the Cetol teak color.

[chase]

Hi John, sounds like a fun adventure. I'd stick with the ice, try to find some block ice and buy the occasional cubes for drinks. I've used the icebox weeks at a time and it lasts a while when you don't run your motor much.

I removed my hatch for refinishing, on mine there are screws that attach it to the boat. It came up easily and I took it to bare metal and primed and painted.

It is easy to reglaze existing or new lens, recommend doing while out. Use some construction grade silicone glazing designed for the job. The hatch itself is easily re-bedded. Just mask off the boat with the thick tape in an outline around the hatch, finish with your favorite tool and enjoy leak free boat for a long time.

I've used cheap AC window unit dockside like Russell says, but mostly fans. Dockside you can have some good fans. Rig a nice sunshade over the top of the boat, that makes a huge difference. If you think it will make you or you crew happier, rig up some window unit or cruisair. It will stay cooler with the AC if you have a sunshade, the little units struggle during the heat of the day but your boat it may be fine.

Have a great trip-

Chase