Bowsprit questions

[Jerry Hammernik]

I've removed all the hardware from the bowsprit on my CD28 and have been sanding it to prep for finishing. I have two questions
1. How do I get the anchor roller out? It looks like if I take out a bung on the starboard side that I'll gain access to the end of the shaft the roller rides on. Is that all it takes, or is there something else I need to do to get it out?
2. The bung is 1 1/8" diameter, where do you find such an item?
Thanks!

Jerry Hammernik
CD28 Lion's Paw #341



dauntles@execpc.com

[Ron Musk]

I've removed all the hardware from the bowsprit on my CD28 and have been sanding it to prep for finishing. I have two questions
1. How do I get the anchor roller out? It looks like if I take out a bung on the starboard side that I'll gain access to the end of the shaft the roller rides on. Is that all it takes, or is there something else I need to do to get it out?
2. The bung is 1 1/8" diameter, where do you find such an item?
Thanks!

Jerry Hammernik
CD28 Lion's Paw #341

Jerry, Thats pretty much it-there may be a bung on the other side also,remove them ,take the nuts off the shaft and your in business. You will need a 1 1/8" plug cutter and a hunk of the same wood as your sprit,Ash ? or is it teak ? Aline the grain and glue it in with waterproof glue or epoxy.

Ron
s/v R&R
CD30 #42



ccerre@massed.net

[Tom]

I've removed all the hardware from the bowsprit on my CD28 and have been sanding it to prep for finishing. I have two questions
1. How do I get the anchor roller out? It looks like if I take out a bung on the starboard side that I'll gain access to the end of the shaft the roller rides on. Is that all it takes, or is there something else I need to do to get it out?
2. The bung is 1 1/8" diameter, where do you find such an item?
Thanks!

Jerry Hammernik
CD28 Lion's Paw #341

Jerry, It may not be that easy. On my CD 31 it looks like a single shaft going all the way through the bowsprit with nuts on each end, but when I opened it up to replace the rollers, it turned out that there were actually two short pins driven in from the outside edge that didn't meet in the middle. Not only that, the holes did not line up. So you couldn't drive the far pin out by pounding on the near one and driving it through. Once you work the first one out you can drive the second one out with a long bolt smaller than the hole. As I recall the holes are 3/8s and I used a 1/4 inch bolt to drive the other side out. That was small enough to get into the far hole even though it didn't line up with the near hole. When I got it out I "line bored" the two holes and put a solid threaded shaft through both rollers with nuts/washers on the ends. I don't know if they were all done with two pins not in alignment, but don't be surprised if it turns into a bigger job than it seems at first. Hey, that's boats!

P.S. Rather than bung the holes, I put a washer and nut inside the former bung hole so that the new shaft doesn't stick out, but is flush with the edge of the bowsprit. Sort of like counter sinking the nut and washer.



TomCambria@mindspring.com

[Russ Campbell]

Jerry, I removed the anchor roller from mine last year when I replaced the whole bowsprit. Turns out it was just a lag bolt that went through the small piece of the bowsprit and screwed into the larger side. That lag bolt turned out to be a piece of work though. It was a bronze bolt with a square head. The head was a really odd size and I ended up destroying a part of the bowsprit to get it out. Of course I was throwing the old bowsprit out so I didn't care. I used the old bolt when I replaced the roller in the new bowsprit. I bought 1" teak bungs from West Marine though the plug cutter advise is a good idea if you know the kind of wood. Have fun

Russ

I've removed all the hardware from the bowsprit on my CD28 and have been sanding it to prep for finishing. I have two questions
1. How do I get the anchor roller out? It looks like if I take out a bung on the starboard side that I'll gain access to the end of the shaft the roller rides on. Is that all it takes, or is there something else I need to do to get it out?
2. The bung is 1 1/8" diameter, where do you find such an item?
Thanks!

Jerry Hammernik
CD28 Lion's Paw #341

camroll@together.net

[Olli Wendelin]

Jerry,

I just finished installing a new bowsprit on my CD 30. I redesigned it based on the CD31 model and built it out of teak. In the process a took pictures of a lot of bowsprits. I will e-mail you a picture of a damaged CD31 bowsprit. It should lend some insight on how yours is built.

The later CDs and Robinhood use a Spartan bronze anchor roller fixture which is much easier to remove and install, although it costs more. Prices are a bit out of date but the part #s are:

R610S Stbd Bow Roller $254.30
R610P Port Bow Roller $254.30
R610B Backing Plates $25.97

I turned the bungs for my job out of teak on my lathe.

Wouldn't it be easier just to varnish with the rollers in place?

Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC



wendelin@spawar.navy.mil

[gunter w brunk]

I've removed all the hardware from the bowsprit on my CD28 and have been sanding it to prep for finishing. I have two questions
1. How do I get the anchor roller out? It looks like if I take out a bung on the starboard side that I'll gain access to the end of the shaft the roller rides on. Is that all it takes, or is there something else I need to do to get it out?
2. The bung is 1 1/8" diameter, where do you find such an item?
Thanks!

Jerry Hammernik
CD28 Lion's Paw #341

jerry, while doing the same job you are doing i discovered rot in the oak bowsprit around the anchor roller area. it, however, extended several inches aft. took everything off and replaced with teak bowsprit and placed new anchor roller on top of sprit. turned out great and looks better.

gunter w brunk
cd28 stargazer #172



gwbrunk@worldnet.att.net