Carpenter/farmer engine removal

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Steve Laume
Posts: 4127
Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
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Carpenter/farmer engine removal

Post by Steve Laume »

Okay, here is my set up for removing Raven's engine. You prbably couldn't get away with this in the average boat yard.
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Here is the little beast ready for transport back to the shop or into the back of a pickup.
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Two sets of bar staging off the stern, one set on deck with pine boards for protection. One 24 foot staging plank with a roller on top. Chain around the cart and a short bridle on the engine. One cable come along and it was child's play.

Having the tractor available to transport it was a bonus, Steve. [/img]
Bill Chapple
Posts: 23
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:15
Location: CD 27 Pagoo

Post by Bill Chapple »

Steve, I am impressed. That is quite a setup. Are you replacing the engine with a new one?
Bill
chase
Posts: 532
Joined: Jul 22nd, '05, 22:45
Location: "Cheoah" PSC 34

Deere meets Dory

Post by chase »

Steve, I must admit you got me all hot and bothered. Nice little green tractor and a CD30!

What are you removing the engine for?

Chase

-where the tractors are all green

(3) 6000 series JD's (Mannheim)
(1) 5000 series
(1) Alberg series, yanmar power plant
Klem
Posts: 404
Joined: Oct 4th, '09, 16:51
Location: CD 30k (for sale), CS36t Gloucester, MA

Post by Klem »

That looks like a totally legitimate and inventive way to do it. Good for you. Last 671 that I pulled we did with a 15' long oak 6X12 and a couple of chain falls.
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Steve Laume
Posts: 4127
Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
Contact:

Post by Steve Laume »

Bill, I wish I could afford and or justify installing one of those Beta's. The engine could have stayed if not for needing to rebuild the transmission. Some brilliant engineer decided it was best to bolt the transmission on from inside the bell housing!

The transmission will get a rebuild. The engine will get cleaned, a new oil pan, main seals, motor mounts, a general going over and paint. The oil filter and heat exchanger will be moved to better locations. Oil and temp alarms will be added. I am moving my domestic water pump out of the engine compartment. Adding some more sound dampening and a new cutlass bearing.

I was hoping to be back in the water by May sometime. It doesn't look real promising but it could happen.

I also reworked the rig and that is pretty well finished except for wax. New standing and running rigging plus internal wiring.

hull polish, wax and bottom paint don't seem like such a big job this year.

Chase, we have the both colors but nothing nearly as big as you are running. I highly recommend the little JD-750 with rear platform to complement, CD-30 engine removal and transport. Just the right size for manuvering around the boat stands, Steve.
Dick Barthel
Posts: 901
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:29
Location: Dream Weaver, CD25D, Noank, CT

removing engine

Post by Dick Barthel »

Very clever but I'm not surprized Steve. Looking forward to catching up with you soon. Dick
Oswego John
Posts: 3535
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1

Re: Carpenter/farmer engine removal

Post by Oswego John »

Steve Laume wrote:Okay, here is my set up for removing Raven's engine. You prbably couldn't get away with this in the average boat yard.
Steve,

Right you are, sir. Throughout the years, we have been using effective means and measures to get-er-done that OSHA, and other boat yards and marinas would consider highly unorthodox.

In the earlier days, we used a Linden tree limb to hoist. For real heavy lifting, we would scab 2x4s together and build a crutch to place under the end of the branch for support.

Years down the road, we became ultra sophisticated :D and erected construction scaffolds above what we were lifting. This proved very effective. The scaffold sections can be erected and broken down for storage in a very short time.

We can adjust the scaffold legs to pretty near level. Each scaffold leg has an adjustable screw, something like a poppet on a jack stand. We have an 18' aluminum kicker like yours, but for short spans, we generally use 2" x 6"s on edge. (vertical). When in doubt, we sometimes place a steel angle iron on top of the 2x6s

We can get the scaffold pretty near level. Each scaffold leg has an adjustable jack stand, something like an adjustable boat poppet stand.

It's a small world that we live in. I, too, have a John Deere tractor. It's a JD-850. Mine has a loader bucket in front and a power take-off in the rear. If the load is low enough, we sometimes use the hydraulic bucket to lift with. I am presently working on a design to install a crane attached to the hydraulic front end bucket Hmmm, Rube Goldberg is alive and well. :idea:

The trailer is homemade. It is oversize for a Ty. The basic design is to transport various sizes, shapes and weights of other boats. When the phone rings, you never know what the job will entail.

I'm glad that I found these pictures in one of my magic shoe boxes in my fail safe photo file system. :D This picture is of doing a rudder job on a Ty.

Enjoy,
O J

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"If I rest, I rust"
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