Internal mast slides
Moderator: Jim Walsh
- Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
Internal mast slides
I am rewiring my mast and have done the wires that exit near the spreaders. There were small slides running in the mast tracks. I reused hese.
The VHF cable is just slapping around in there. The cable has not given me any problems but I am wondering if it should be replaced while I am at this. I also want to run a wire for a mast head light.
The VHF wire is just hanging in the mast, supported by a grommet. There is a bar on the mast head casting that appears to be there to support wires to the mast head. What is the best way to tie off the wires to this bar? Tie a knot? Loop then around and seize the loop? A hitch with some small line? Anything would be better than just letting them hang on the hole in the mast extrusion.
What I need to find is a source for those little slides. They look like little dove tails about 1/4" wide in the track. I need about a dozen of them.
I have not really searched as I imagine someone here knows exactly where to find them, Steve.
The VHF cable is just slapping around in there. The cable has not given me any problems but I am wondering if it should be replaced while I am at this. I also want to run a wire for a mast head light.
The VHF wire is just hanging in the mast, supported by a grommet. There is a bar on the mast head casting that appears to be there to support wires to the mast head. What is the best way to tie off the wires to this bar? Tie a knot? Loop then around and seize the loop? A hitch with some small line? Anything would be better than just letting them hang on the hole in the mast extrusion.
What I need to find is a source for those little slides. They look like little dove tails about 1/4" wide in the track. I need about a dozen of them.
I have not really searched as I imagine someone here knows exactly where to find them, Steve.
Wire slap in mast
When I put some new wires in a CD28 I used to own, I enclosed the wires in foam pipe insulation then tied a few nylon wire ties at different angles so the ties would keep the insulation from the walls of the mast. Then I slid the tube up the mast and added another one until as much of the length as possible was enclosed. Worked for me.
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- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Cable Support
Steve,
Some people fasten their mast wiring cable supports with the use of nylon wire-tys. The ties come in many designs. One of the designs has an eyelet to accept a support screw.
I'm not suggesting using a screw to support the wiring. After the ty-wrap is tightened around the wires or cable, then one of the methods that you mentioned could be used to attach the wires to the bar, including the use of the screwhole for securing the wiring.
Good luck,
O J
Some people fasten their mast wiring cable supports with the use of nylon wire-tys. The ties come in many designs. One of the designs has an eyelet to accept a support screw.
I'm not suggesting using a screw to support the wiring. After the ty-wrap is tightened around the wires or cable, then one of the methods that you mentioned could be used to attach the wires to the bar, including the use of the screwhole for securing the wiring.
Good luck,
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
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- David van den Burgh
- Posts: 597
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 18:54
- Location: Ariel CD36, 1979 - Lake Michigan
- Contact:
Mast wire support
Steve,
A few years ago I ordered the "right" slides from Rig-Rite to use inside the mast. They didn't fit. I was out of time and opted to use a plastic-coated SS cable as a boltrope in the internal track. I laid out the wire and exit points on the ground, secured the wires to the SS cable with rigging tape, then slid the whole assembly in the track and up the mast. I secured it to the compression tube at the head of the mast with several zip ties. The arrangement worked perfectly until the rigging tape lost its adhesion.
I'm planning on redoing the wiring this spring, and I intend to reuse the SS cable, but this time I'm going to (I think) wrap it in a continuous length of luff tape and then insert grommets in the tape every few feet. I'll then zip tie the cables to the luff tape and slide the whole thing back up the mast. The idea is similar to the continuous support tape that is used for attaching a headsail to a roller furling foil.
Now, if you happen to find a source for the correct slides, I just may go that route. I'll be following this thread to see what turns up.
A few years ago I ordered the "right" slides from Rig-Rite to use inside the mast. They didn't fit. I was out of time and opted to use a plastic-coated SS cable as a boltrope in the internal track. I laid out the wire and exit points on the ground, secured the wires to the SS cable with rigging tape, then slid the whole assembly in the track and up the mast. I secured it to the compression tube at the head of the mast with several zip ties. The arrangement worked perfectly until the rigging tape lost its adhesion.
I'm planning on redoing the wiring this spring, and I intend to reuse the SS cable, but this time I'm going to (I think) wrap it in a continuous length of luff tape and then insert grommets in the tape every few feet. I'll then zip tie the cables to the luff tape and slide the whole thing back up the mast. The idea is similar to the continuous support tape that is used for attaching a headsail to a roller furling foil.
Now, if you happen to find a source for the correct slides, I just may go that route. I'll be following this thread to see what turns up.
Good timely thread.
Steve, Rig-rite does carry the slides although I understand they are expensive. I have been meaning to check the price myself. Some have gone the route of rivetting in a schedule 10 pvc chase for the wiring. This is what Don Casey suggests and what I believe Fred did on FENIX.
Do you have internal halyards to deal with too? Currently my halyards run over the masthead so I only have 2 -- and they consume all 4 shives. I am looking to add a halyard or two and will need to run at least 2 internally to accomplish that.
I understand that they preferred way to secure the wiring harness (bear the load of the wire weight) is to include a stainless cable in the harness and secure it to the compression post where the masthead stays attach. I believe that is what David did.
That is all just "book knowledge" though. What sort of exit did you cut for your wires at the spreaders? Did you just drill a hole or did you cut a larger access point? I have been wondering about putting rectangular access points in the cabin and also at the spreader level. Rig-Rite sells a plate for this too. With all of these issues involving cutting the mast (the internal halyard exit, the wire exits and port, etc) I don't know how you evaluate the strength of the mast and placement of the cut. Thoughts on this?
Matt
Steve, Rig-rite does carry the slides although I understand they are expensive. I have been meaning to check the price myself. Some have gone the route of rivetting in a schedule 10 pvc chase for the wiring. This is what Don Casey suggests and what I believe Fred did on FENIX.
Do you have internal halyards to deal with too? Currently my halyards run over the masthead so I only have 2 -- and they consume all 4 shives. I am looking to add a halyard or two and will need to run at least 2 internally to accomplish that.
I understand that they preferred way to secure the wiring harness (bear the load of the wire weight) is to include a stainless cable in the harness and secure it to the compression post where the masthead stays attach. I believe that is what David did.
That is all just "book knowledge" though. What sort of exit did you cut for your wires at the spreaders? Did you just drill a hole or did you cut a larger access point? I have been wondering about putting rectangular access points in the cabin and also at the spreader level. Rig-Rite sells a plate for this too. With all of these issues involving cutting the mast (the internal halyard exit, the wire exits and port, etc) I don't know how you evaluate the strength of the mast and placement of the cut. Thoughts on this?
Matt
- Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
So Rig Rite it is? So how expensive could a dozen slides be?
I would like to use the slides, rather than adding more stuff with the associated weight to the mast. A nest of wire ties just seems messy when there is that nice track in there. The light stainless cable sounds perfect to tie everything together and support it at the mast head. It didn't seem right to tie off the wire and risk breaking strands on what will be very small conductors for an LED masthead light.
I suppose I will wait until Monday to give Rig Rite a call. Is that the preferred method for getting them to respond these days?
I really hope the slides work out and I will let you know, Steve
I would like to use the slides, rather than adding more stuff with the associated weight to the mast. A nest of wire ties just seems messy when there is that nice track in there. The light stainless cable sounds perfect to tie everything together and support it at the mast head. It didn't seem right to tie off the wire and risk breaking strands on what will be very small conductors for an LED masthead light.
I suppose I will wait until Monday to give Rig Rite a call. Is that the preferred method for getting them to respond these days?
I really hope the slides work out and I will let you know, Steve
- Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
Matt, I have the original external halyard set up for the jib and main. I added a bail and block to the masthead casting for a spinnaker halyard. I could easily add another block to the same bail.
I just changed my fixed topping lift to a 1/8" Amsteel line. I had considered going up a size or two and adding a block at the masthead. This would have let me use the topping lift as a spare main halyard but would have also added clutter. I just changed my main halyard so I don't anticipate needing a spare.
I only drilled small holes for the wire exits except for the radar at the bottom of the mast. That is an oblong hole approximately 1/2" X 1" long. It makes for a fairer curve in the radar cable. I was able to fish all the wires through with a piece of light line. I pulled the line with the old wire but you could do it with a snake or even air pressure. Once the line was at the end of the mast I taped it to the new wire and pulled it up and out the hole at the spreaders.
I did all of this alone and it would be even easier with someone feeding from the other end, Steve.
I just changed my fixed topping lift to a 1/8" Amsteel line. I had considered going up a size or two and adding a block at the masthead. This would have let me use the topping lift as a spare main halyard but would have also added clutter. I just changed my main halyard so I don't anticipate needing a spare.
I only drilled small holes for the wire exits except for the radar at the bottom of the mast. That is an oblong hole approximately 1/2" X 1" long. It makes for a fairer curve in the radar cable. I was able to fish all the wires through with a piece of light line. I pulled the line with the old wire but you could do it with a snake or even air pressure. Once the line was at the end of the mast I taped it to the new wire and pulled it up and out the hole at the spreaders.
I did all of this alone and it would be even easier with someone feeding from the other end, Steve.
- Cathy Monaghan
- Posts: 3502
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 08:17
- Location: 1986 CD32 Realization #3, Rahway, NJ, Raritan Bay -- CDSOA Member since 2000. Greenline 39 Electra
- Contact:
Steve,
You should be able to get sail slides from any rigger or any ship's chandlery, even Defender, West Marine, etc. Remove one of the slides from your internal wiring and take it with you to the closest chadlery, or measure the width of the part of the slide or slug that goes into the track. Our CD32 uses slugs for the internal track (round) and slides for the external track (flat).
Defender: http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?pa ... &id=311614
West Marine: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... 7%20710/0/
pyacht.com: http://www.pyacht.com/uk-luff-slides.htm
Sailrite: http://search.sailrite.com/category/sai ... s-shackles
Anyway, here's the description (from Rig-Rite's web site) for the slides that should fit your boat's internal track. CLICK HERE for info about your mast dimensions.
"Nylon slides fits all Kenyon and Rig-Rite (and many MetalMast) mast sections with internal electrical wire slide tracks. Slides are attached to wiring harness at 2-3 foot intervals with tie wraps. Prevents wires from slapping, and from fouling internal halyards. Molded Nylon slide is 3/4" long x 1/2" high x (maximum) 1/4" wide. SP-E126 "
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
You should be able to get sail slides from any rigger or any ship's chandlery, even Defender, West Marine, etc. Remove one of the slides from your internal wiring and take it with you to the closest chadlery, or measure the width of the part of the slide or slug that goes into the track. Our CD32 uses slugs for the internal track (round) and slides for the external track (flat).
Defender: http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?pa ... &id=311614
West Marine: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... 7%20710/0/
pyacht.com: http://www.pyacht.com/uk-luff-slides.htm
Sailrite: http://search.sailrite.com/category/sai ... s-shackles
Anyway, here's the description (from Rig-Rite's web site) for the slides that should fit your boat's internal track. CLICK HERE for info about your mast dimensions.
"Nylon slides fits all Kenyon and Rig-Rite (and many MetalMast) mast sections with internal electrical wire slide tracks. Slides are attached to wiring harness at 2-3 foot intervals with tie wraps. Prevents wires from slapping, and from fouling internal halyards. Molded Nylon slide is 3/4" long x 1/2" high x (maximum) 1/4" wide. SP-E126 "
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
Last edited by Cathy Monaghan on Apr 3rd, '10, 17:52, edited 1 time in total.
- Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
- Cathy Monaghan
- Posts: 3502
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 08:17
- Location: 1986 CD32 Realization #3, Rahway, NJ, Raritan Bay -- CDSOA Member since 2000. Greenline 39 Electra
- Contact:
Hi Steve,
I just walked into the ship's chandlery where we keep our boat and got the slugs I needed when we rewired our mast a few years ago. They have bins of different sizes and types of slides and slugs. And they had the slugs I needed. It's a really good chandlery. Just lucky I guess, becuase I can always get what I want there. If it's not on the shelves it's out in the back in the Parts Dept., or they'll order it for me. Anyway, I'd try your local chandlery before ordering anything from Rig-Rite. The new ones don't have to be exactly the same, they just have to fit in the track.
Cathy
I just walked into the ship's chandlery where we keep our boat and got the slugs I needed when we rewired our mast a few years ago. They have bins of different sizes and types of slides and slugs. And they had the slugs I needed. It's a really good chandlery. Just lucky I guess, becuase I can always get what I want there. If it's not on the shelves it's out in the back in the Parts Dept., or they'll order it for me. Anyway, I'd try your local chandlery before ordering anything from Rig-Rite. The new ones don't have to be exactly the same, they just have to fit in the track.
Cathy
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- Posts: 56
- Joined: May 10th, '05, 12:18
- Location: 1979 Cape Dory 28' Intrepid
Well, I replaced all my wiring and was having a real time putting the wires in because I was hitting a block.
After cleaning out the mast (pulled the mast head and ran a snake in I found that the previous owner taped the electrical wires together and run coax for the antennae...
And after they put the wires in place and help then, they push 4 open cell sponges like you use to wash the car (aka... $10) into the mast and TAAAA DAAAAA.. completely quiet!
I did the same to replace and my mast is quiet at least from the wiring standpoint.
All my halyards run OUTSIDE the mast.
After cleaning out the mast (pulled the mast head and ran a snake in I found that the previous owner taped the electrical wires together and run coax for the antennae...
And after they put the wires in place and help then, they push 4 open cell sponges like you use to wash the car (aka... $10) into the mast and TAAAA DAAAAA.. completely quiet!
I did the same to replace and my mast is quiet at least from the wiring standpoint.
All my halyards run OUTSIDE the mast.
Bob Condon