The 2.8 gpm ShurFlo on RESPITE is ready for the puppy farm. Since the replacement process is going to be a neck stretching, knuckle scrapping process that I don't wish to repeat anytime soon--the pump site was probably selected by distant relatives of the likely war criminals who sited the seacocks--I would appreciate anybody's experiences with the generally available units (ShurFlo, Jabsco, PAR, etc).
Thanks,
Mitchell Bober
RESPITE
CD330
thebobers@erols.com
Galley Pumps--Recommendations??
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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don s.
Re: Galley Pumps--Recommendations??
Mitchell,
I wouldn't dump that pu(m)ppy -- I rebuilt mine last year for about $30. It was easy to do and is as good as new.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
Lotsa water pressure in Greenwich Cove
I wouldn't dump that pu(m)ppy -- I rebuilt mine last year for about $30. It was easy to do and is as good as new.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
Lotsa water pressure in Greenwich Cove
M. R. Bober wrote: The 2.8 gpm ShurFlo on RESPITE is ready for the puppy farm. Since the replacement process is going to be a neck stretching, knuckle scrapping process that I don't wish to repeat anytime soon--the pump site was probably selected by distant relatives of the likely war criminals who sited the seacocks--I would appreciate anybody's experiences with the generally available units (ShurFlo, Jabsco, PAR, etc).
Thanks,
Mitchell Bober
RESPITE
CD330
-
matt Cawthorne
Silence!
Mitch and Susan,
I agree with Don that often you can just take the head off of the thing and clean it and re-assemble. Little grits of stuff get in the valves and if you clean them out the pump frequently will come right back to life. My pump is wired with bullet connectors so that it can be removed in just a few (ok 15) minutes.
Perhaps we can define a new term. Boat minutes. One boat minute equals 30 regular minutes. No offense or disrespect intended, but perhaps if the Bible had the words that God crated the world in 7 boat-days there would be no disagreement between the folks that believe the bible literally and the scientific community.
Now if you prefer to do as Matt does rather than doing what he recommends you can go buy a "silencer". I believe it is made by Par or ShurFlo. The little thing is MANY decibels quieter than the original pump. Mostly all that you hear when it is running is the buzz from my hot water check valve. The down side to the pump is that if you run out of water it is so quiet that you litterally can not hear it run. If you do not realize that it is out of water and leave the switch on it will run for hours unnoticed. No harm to anything but the state of charge in your battery. My unit is about 5 or 6 years old. It had to be cleaned one time so far.
If you would like to see/not hear it swing by this weekend. You can see the slow progress on the frige/freezer. I am on white dock #55. Give me a heads up so I will be certain to be around.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
I agree with Don that often you can just take the head off of the thing and clean it and re-assemble. Little grits of stuff get in the valves and if you clean them out the pump frequently will come right back to life. My pump is wired with bullet connectors so that it can be removed in just a few (ok 15) minutes.
Perhaps we can define a new term. Boat minutes. One boat minute equals 30 regular minutes. No offense or disrespect intended, but perhaps if the Bible had the words that God crated the world in 7 boat-days there would be no disagreement between the folks that believe the bible literally and the scientific community.
Now if you prefer to do as Matt does rather than doing what he recommends you can go buy a "silencer". I believe it is made by Par or ShurFlo. The little thing is MANY decibels quieter than the original pump. Mostly all that you hear when it is running is the buzz from my hot water check valve. The down side to the pump is that if you run out of water it is so quiet that you litterally can not hear it run. If you do not realize that it is out of water and leave the switch on it will run for hours unnoticed. No harm to anything but the state of charge in your battery. My unit is about 5 or 6 years old. It had to be cleaned one time so far.
If you would like to see/not hear it swing by this weekend. You can see the slow progress on the frige/freezer. I am on white dock #55. Give me a heads up so I will be certain to be around.
Matt
M. R. Bober wrote: The 2.8 gpm ShurFlo on RESPITE is ready for the puppy farm. Since the replacement process is going to be a neck stretching, knuckle scrapping process that I don't wish to repeat anytime soon--the pump site was probably selected by distant relatives of the likely war criminals who sited the seacocks--I would appreciate anybody's experiences with the generally available units (ShurFlo, Jabsco, PAR, etc).
Thanks,
Mitchell Bober
RESPITE
CD330
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
-
Larry Austin
Re: frige/freezer
hi matt...what kind/brand refer are you installing? are you adding a refer to the "ice box", and if you are are you adding more insulation to the ice box, how do you do that? insulation on the outside of the box? if so how do you get the ice box out? and if you dont take it out how does one add the insulation?
Thanks
Larry Austin
CD30MKII
LAYLA
laustin@us.ibm.com
Thanks
Larry Austin
CD30MKII
LAYLA
laustin@us.ibm.com
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Chris Reinke CD330 Innisf
Re: Galley Pumps--Recommendations??
Mitch - Have you considered relocating the pump locations to a more serviceable spot? I have mounted both my fresh water and shower sump pump inside the engine compartment on the port bulkhead. Both units are "easily" serviced. They are directly above the fresh water manifold, on the inboard side of the bulkhead. To move them was minimal cost. All that I used was a few connectors and some tubing.
Just a thought.
Chris
Chris.reinke@transamerica.com
Just a thought.
Chris
M. R. Bober wrote: The 2.8 gpm ShurFlo on RESPITE is ready for the puppy farm. Since the replacement process is going to be a neck stretching, knuckle scrapping process that I don't wish to repeat anytime soon--the pump site was probably selected by distant relatives of the likely war criminals who sited the seacocks--I would appreciate anybody's experiences with the generally available units (ShurFlo, Jabsco, PAR, etc).
Thanks,
Mitchell Bober
RESPITE
CD330
Chris.reinke@transamerica.com
-
Matt Cawthorne
Re: frige/freezer
Larry,
Big job. To start with the removal of the existing icebox was with a crowbar. Very ugly. The existing box on a CD36 had 1 inch of insulation on 3 sides an extra inch on the engine and stove side and none on most of the top. I wanted to reduce the electrical consumption by an order of magnitude. My approach was to use a foam which does not absorb water and therefore will retian its R value. I also wanted to use 6 inches of foam on all sides. Well, there was a good deal of wasted space around the outside of the existing box, but with 6 inches of foam the icebox would have been reduced to just a few cubic feet. Not good enough for me. Rather than try and do any more major work to the galley I compromised on the budget, volume and amount of insulation. I settled on 5 inches on 4 sides. The remaining two sides (one of which is the top) got Glacier bay R-50 insulation panels. Very expensive. I think the volume is now around 6 cubic feet for the combination of the freezer and frige. I had to spend lots of time this winter making molds for the two fiberglass lids and the matching frames that the lids sit into. It was way too much work, but the lids will be double sealed and fit very snugly.
The changes mentioned above were not enough to get the needed energy savings so I ditched the existing air cooled Aldor-Barbor cold machine and installed a water cooled unit. The existing unit was installed in the port cockpit locker which was always somewhere between warm and hot. Switching to a water cooled unit which dumps it's heat to the much cooler water should increase it's Coefficient of Performance (COP) by 50% to 100% depending on water and air temperature. The unit chosen was a Frigoboat k-35 with keel cooler. the keel cooler is actually a condensor mounted in dynaplate on the outside of the hull. All that passes through the hull are the coolant lines. The dynaplate is a nice heavy bronze unit. If you are interested go to http://www.veco.net/k35f.htm Getting the unit through the us importer (lewmar) turned out to be impossible so I ordered it from Canada. The cost seemed high in Canadian dollars, but the exchange rate made it comparable with the price in the Defender catalogue. You just can not get it from Defender.
I also made a custom frige drain/trap. I mounted the compressor in the space under the dry locker by the sink. It used to be useless space, but now the whole frige unit is out of harms way.
It is a big job, but someday I'd like to go on some very long sailing trips. I do not want to be a slave to my frige, running the engine twice a day. With a good solar panel and or wind generator this should keep the engine time to once every week or two. We shall see in a season or two whether all of this work was worth it. I am just about to paint the inside of the box now. I still have to hook up the electrical stuff, put the top on it, put a new laminate on the top, put the cabinets back and make and install some new trim.
Don't tackle this job unless you have lots of time on your hands.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
Big job. To start with the removal of the existing icebox was with a crowbar. Very ugly. The existing box on a CD36 had 1 inch of insulation on 3 sides an extra inch on the engine and stove side and none on most of the top. I wanted to reduce the electrical consumption by an order of magnitude. My approach was to use a foam which does not absorb water and therefore will retian its R value. I also wanted to use 6 inches of foam on all sides. Well, there was a good deal of wasted space around the outside of the existing box, but with 6 inches of foam the icebox would have been reduced to just a few cubic feet. Not good enough for me. Rather than try and do any more major work to the galley I compromised on the budget, volume and amount of insulation. I settled on 5 inches on 4 sides. The remaining two sides (one of which is the top) got Glacier bay R-50 insulation panels. Very expensive. I think the volume is now around 6 cubic feet for the combination of the freezer and frige. I had to spend lots of time this winter making molds for the two fiberglass lids and the matching frames that the lids sit into. It was way too much work, but the lids will be double sealed and fit very snugly.
The changes mentioned above were not enough to get the needed energy savings so I ditched the existing air cooled Aldor-Barbor cold machine and installed a water cooled unit. The existing unit was installed in the port cockpit locker which was always somewhere between warm and hot. Switching to a water cooled unit which dumps it's heat to the much cooler water should increase it's Coefficient of Performance (COP) by 50% to 100% depending on water and air temperature. The unit chosen was a Frigoboat k-35 with keel cooler. the keel cooler is actually a condensor mounted in dynaplate on the outside of the hull. All that passes through the hull are the coolant lines. The dynaplate is a nice heavy bronze unit. If you are interested go to http://www.veco.net/k35f.htm Getting the unit through the us importer (lewmar) turned out to be impossible so I ordered it from Canada. The cost seemed high in Canadian dollars, but the exchange rate made it comparable with the price in the Defender catalogue. You just can not get it from Defender.
I also made a custom frige drain/trap. I mounted the compressor in the space under the dry locker by the sink. It used to be useless space, but now the whole frige unit is out of harms way.
It is a big job, but someday I'd like to go on some very long sailing trips. I do not want to be a slave to my frige, running the engine twice a day. With a good solar panel and or wind generator this should keep the engine time to once every week or two. We shall see in a season or two whether all of this work was worth it. I am just about to paint the inside of the box now. I still have to hook up the electrical stuff, put the top on it, put a new laminate on the top, put the cabinets back and make and install some new trim.
Don't tackle this job unless you have lots of time on your hands.
Matt
Larry Austin wrote: hi matt...what kind/brand refer are you installing? are you adding a refer to the "ice box", and if you are are you adding more insulation to the ice box, how do you do that? insulation on the outside of the box? if so how do you get the ice box out? and if you dont take it out how does one add the insulation?
Thanks
Larry Austin
CD30MKII
LAYLA
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
-
M.R. Bober
Re: frige/freezer
Matt,
I'm convinced that you could quickly recoup the expense of this job by selling ice cubes from your "breeder freezer."
OBTW: I have repaired the ShurFlo pumps in the past. This unit was getting 12.9VDC, the diaphram seemed intact, the motor spun under power, the wobble plate was actuating the pistons, but not enough pressure was produced to shutoff the motor (this with a cap over the discharge side). I went to West to buy a replacement valve assembly (the catalog sas for "2.8gpm ShuFlo"), but ShurFlo has a newer generation of 2.8 gpm units.
Long story short: I bought the ShurFlo "Silencer." The old pump will be retained for parts. The shower sump uses a similiar ShurFlo, which has no pressure switch. User satisfaction report will follow this weekend's installation.
Every Best Wish,
Mitchell
thebobers@erols.com
I'm convinced that you could quickly recoup the expense of this job by selling ice cubes from your "breeder freezer."
OBTW: I have repaired the ShurFlo pumps in the past. This unit was getting 12.9VDC, the diaphram seemed intact, the motor spun under power, the wobble plate was actuating the pistons, but not enough pressure was produced to shutoff the motor (this with a cap over the discharge side). I went to West to buy a replacement valve assembly (the catalog sas for "2.8gpm ShuFlo"), but ShurFlo has a newer generation of 2.8 gpm units.
Long story short: I bought the ShurFlo "Silencer." The old pump will be retained for parts. The shower sump uses a similiar ShurFlo, which has no pressure switch. User satisfaction report will follow this weekend's installation.
Every Best Wish,
Mitchell
thebobers@erols.com
-
M. R. Bober
Re: Galley Pumps--Recommendations??
Chris,
I hadn't thought of relocating the pump. It is a good idea. The port bulkhead of the engine room is getting pretty full (shower sump pump, galvanic isolator, plumbing and such), but I will take a good look.
If you saw my reply to Matt Cawthorne, you know that I bought the new pump (5 year warranty). I may reinstall in the old location and consider the prospects for subsequent repair/replacement.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Mitchell Bober
RESPITE
CD330
thebobers@erols.com
I hadn't thought of relocating the pump. It is a good idea. The port bulkhead of the engine room is getting pretty full (shower sump pump, galvanic isolator, plumbing and such), but I will take a good look.
If you saw my reply to Matt Cawthorne, you know that I bought the new pump (5 year warranty). I may reinstall in the old location and consider the prospects for subsequent repair/replacement.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Mitchell Bober
RESPITE
CD330
thebobers@erols.com