Wondered if anyone has a vendor for the bronze (or SS) prop shaft for a CD 28 Sloop. The coupling refuses to budge and I can't fit a puller in the available space. I did try pulling down the two coupling faces and it looks as though the trans side of the coupling may come off first. (Not what I wanted!!!)
If anyone has a puller design to recommend I would take that as a next step.
Sure would be nice to float my new boat by June 1.... Thanks all.
Rob Laird, Sparrow Hawk '77 #135
rlaird@worldnet.att.net
CD 28 Prop Shaft Replacement
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Ken Cave
Re: CD 28 Prop Shaft Replacement
I just replaced my shaft, prop (went to a three bladed prop-and boy does it work wonders!) and had a PSS installed while I was on the hard.
I had the work done at Cap Sante Marine (as well as a new muffler, etc. etc. etc.) in Anacortes Wa. Dan May is the service manager there, and I have worked with him for the past eight years on different boats I have owned.
He is a wealth of information, as my Cape Dory is the first he as worked with-but he has another ready to haul!
Phone number for Cap Santa Marine is 360 293 3732. Tell Dan that I asked you to call him.
Ken Cave:
Wet and a happy sailer!!
bcave!@whidbey.net
I had the work done at Cap Sante Marine (as well as a new muffler, etc. etc. etc.) in Anacortes Wa. Dan May is the service manager there, and I have worked with him for the past eight years on different boats I have owned.
He is a wealth of information, as my Cape Dory is the first he as worked with-but he has another ready to haul!
Phone number for Cap Santa Marine is 360 293 3732. Tell Dan that I asked you to call him.
Ken Cave:
Wet and a happy sailer!!
bcave!@whidbey.net
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Duncan Maio
Re: CD 28 Prop Shaft Replacement
Rob:Rob Laird wrote: I did try pulling down the two coupling faces and it looks as though the trans side of the coupling may come off first. (Not what I wanted!!!)
The transmission side of the coupling is probably not the same as the shaft side - on the Yanmars, the flange is an integral part of the drive shaft, and has a flat surface at the center. On my CD27, the flanges have a 1/8" lip at a 2" diameter, to help with alignment. This lip had seized slightly on my boat, and she needed a couple of taps with a mallet (okay, it was the biggest wrench I had handy) to separate the flanges after the bolts were out.
To drive the shaft out of the flange, I put a deep-well socket between the end of the shaft and the transmission side of the flange, and reassembled the flanges with long bolts of the same size as the originals, but about 3" longer (10mm x 75mm).
Before installing the bolts, I threaded a nut onto the bolt, so that the flanges could be tightened without interfering with the transmission housing. The bolts were secured with a nut on the transmission side of the flange, and the flanges were tightened by holding the bolt with one wrench and screwing the first nut toward the end of the bolt. I rotated the shaft after every full turn on each nut to keep the pressure even, and the shaft slid right out.
You can do the same thing with the stock nuts and bolts and a series of progressively larger sockets (or other shim material), but then you have to repeatedly remove and replace the bolts.
If your transmission is different from mine, you could do the same thing using a piece of 3/8" steel or aluminum plate with holes in the same pattern as your flanges.
If none of that works and you have to cut the shaft, send me the pieces and I will have my shop make a replacement for you (we are near Boston).
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
dmaio@meganet.net
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Chris Holme
Re: CD 28 Prop Shaft Replacement
Ken, Can you elaborate on the advantages of the 3-bladed prop? I'm a new CD28 owner and the boat has a 3-bladed prop that I was going to replace w/ a 2-bladed to reduce drag while under sail.
Thanks in advance, Chris
chris@annapolis.net
Thanks in advance, Chris
chris@annapolis.net
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Rob Laird
Re: CD 28 Prop Shaft Replacement
Gents,
Thanks as always for your rapid response. I have the Faryman Engine/trans and am very leary about causing any damage. I think I'll try to make up a plate to use against the coupling on the shaft side rather than risk injury to the other end. My existing shaft looks decent (what I can see of it) so I'd like to keep it aboard.
Ken, I too am interested in the assorted changes you've made, including the 3 blade prop. Problem is every time I read the BB I find something else to upgrade or repair.
Thanks again for your input folks,
Rob, Sparrow Hawk CD28
rlaird@worldnet.att.net
Thanks as always for your rapid response. I have the Faryman Engine/trans and am very leary about causing any damage. I think I'll try to make up a plate to use against the coupling on the shaft side rather than risk injury to the other end. My existing shaft looks decent (what I can see of it) so I'd like to keep it aboard.
Ken, I too am interested in the assorted changes you've made, including the 3 blade prop. Problem is every time I read the BB I find something else to upgrade or repair.
Thanks again for your input folks,
Rob, Sparrow Hawk CD28
rlaird@worldnet.att.net
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Ken Cave
Re: CD 28 Prop Shaft Replacement
Sorry I haven't answered sooner: been in Victoria Canada this past week listening to 20 jazz bands-I know-someone has to do it!
After reading all the stories on two verses there bladed props, I was really suprized how my new three bladed prop really works! I had a local yard do the work, and what they did is match up the pitch against the old two bladed prop (less pitch-three blades) and at full throttle, the MD7A is running about 2400 rpm with no smoke (guess I lucked out on that one too. Speed, according my my Garmin 28 was over 6 knots!
Before I decided to switch I talked to some professionals that have been around boats for years, including John Vigor who ownes a neat CD 25. All had positive things to say about replacement.
The prop was a little expensive (in the three hundred dollar range) but what isn't in a boat?
If you do convert, be sure to have a good prop shop do the conversion to the right pitch and blade. A friend of mine switched his-and is now on his third prop because he insists on going "cheap"!
Ken Cave
bcave@whidbey.net
After reading all the stories on two verses there bladed props, I was really suprized how my new three bladed prop really works! I had a local yard do the work, and what they did is match up the pitch against the old two bladed prop (less pitch-three blades) and at full throttle, the MD7A is running about 2400 rpm with no smoke (guess I lucked out on that one too. Speed, according my my Garmin 28 was over 6 knots!
Before I decided to switch I talked to some professionals that have been around boats for years, including John Vigor who ownes a neat CD 25. All had positive things to say about replacement.
The prop was a little expensive (in the three hundred dollar range) but what isn't in a boat?
If you do convert, be sure to have a good prop shop do the conversion to the right pitch and blade. A friend of mine switched his-and is now on his third prop because he insists on going "cheap"!
Ken Cave
bcave@whidbey.net