Tiller VS. Wheel in CD 28 - need more cockpit room!

[Steve Laume]

Once you install an inboard plan on backing left, Steve.

[Neil Gordon]

I understand the rudder impact may be somewhat reduced from that of a rudder on a fin keel sailboat because we "enjoy" a full keel, but why would the rudder have NO IMPACT.

It's not that it has NO impact. It's just that whatever the rudder does is usually ineffective in preventing the boat from turning the bow the way the wind decides it's to go. That puts the skipper in the position not of worrying about the impact of the rudder but of the IMPACT OF THE ANCHOR!

[Warren S]

it just has nothing to do do with the direction you wish to go in

[DaveCD28]

It does obviously have "some" impact, but only once you get up some speed. But the wind on the bow generally has much more of an impact on the boat turning than the rudder does at speeds which you would want to enter or exit a tight and crowded docking area, unless you have the luxury of a completely wind-sheltered docking area.

Most people who sail a Cape Dory know exactly what we're talking about. I noticed you sail a typhoon. Perhaps the problem isn't as apparent on that sized boat.

[Neil Gordon]

I noticed you sail a typhoon. Perhaps the problem isn't as apparent on that sized boat.

Size doesn't matter.

The notion of having an outboard makes a difference, though.

[Steve Laume]

Our Typhoon, with a 2 HP Honda, could literally spin within her own length in either direction.

The rudder was great once you got moving with the motor in a neutral alignment. Once we got into a really tight maneuvering situation, at slow speed, I would abandon the tiller and use the outboard to move the stern anywhere I wanted it to go. It was like having a stern thruster but better. Not only did you have control from side to side but could also check forward or reverse movement.

Raven uses a back and fill arrangement, Steve.

[drysuit2]

I have owned my CD 28 (Escape) for about 1.5 years and have done a lot of repairs & updating during that time (will post pics) and have come to the conclusion I would like to switch from tiller to wheel - for the sole reason I do not have enough room in the cockpit for people to sit - without them being in the way of the tiller - is there a "to-do" instructions for the change?

I also welcome any sage advice on other thoughts & options regarding this issue (mini-tiller?). With all the changes and work - I probably should have bought a CD30!

On an unrelated note - is the bilge area under the engine open, meaning water cannot be trapped away from the bilge pump? The reason I ask this question, with all the rain we have had in the SF bay area - my bilge filled up and the lower unit went out - thankfully I had installed a second pump between the first pump and the cabin floor which kept the cabin from flooding. What was strange was the fact that the hand pump in the cockpit did not affect this bilge water and lead me to wonder if there are "compartments" in bilge - or is my hand-pump hose plugged or in the wrong location - it has worked in the past w/o issue - appreciate your thoughts - waitin for spring - Warren

I personally adore tillers. I love the instant feedback I get. I can see and feel my connection to my boat. However, even with just 2 people in the cockpit that tiller can get in the way.

So If entertaining, and having many folks in the cockpit is more important than how well she sails: go with a wheel.

If sailing and having a direct connection to the boat are more important to you: stay with the tiller.

Shortening is an interesting compromise. If I had to do that; I would come up with some sort of lengthening extension.

I'm not judging here. It's your boat, not mine.

[GLutzow]

Having owned ships with wheels and ships with tillers I can definitely say that I prefer a tiller. I love the feedback and it makes self steering so much easier and cost effective. And when your electronic Autohelm, etc, fails due to salt corrosion you can always use the sheet-to-tiller method of self-steering which I find to be very effective and rarely, if ever, fails you.

[Steve Laume]

Love the one you're with, Steve.

[mgphl52]

After 44 years of sailing, I still have NEVER seen a tiller boat that carries an "emergency wheel."

-michael

[Vcoast]

Check out this CD28 rehab. Not sure if this link will take you right to the Rudder Project, if not, from the home page go to his project for the Wind Vane, and at the top of the page click on the Rudder hot link.

This guy also shot some pretty nifty short videos during his extended cruise. You will see, this set-up performs extremely well.

The wind vane steering is an elaborate addition and only necessary for extended cruising. Seeing how you're concerned with cockpit room, this might fit the bill, just forego the wind vane set-up till retirement. The tiller arm is off the floor, and back on the transom. One of his videos shows one finger steering and zero weather helm. If this is the case, you could rig a telescoping handle, on a shortened tiller, have more room, and be able to quickly move the stick out of someone's way.

http://www.sbastro.com/FeNIX/Projects/P ... temsFS.htm

Good Luck.

[marv brinn]

the rudder is less effective in reverse because there is less prop wash when the prop is operating..You need water flowing past the rudder to allow it to act as a control surface. in other words when the prop is in foward it sends a large volume of water past the rudder (you knew that didnt you?)

Next question is there a way to hook up an auto pilot to my cd 27 tiller so that it doesnt take up all that cockpit space?no wheels pls.