Fiberglass Maintenance

[Mike Little]

Another question, hope it doesn't sound too stupid. The CD28 I just purchased obviously hasn't had a fiberglass wax job for a couple of years. There is moderate to heavy oxidation and chalking on the deck and light to medium on the hull. I'm looking for suggestions on the easiest way to get the fiberglass looking great again. I've purchased some "3M Onestep" combination rubbing compound/wax, but haven't started anything yet. I don't mind using a little "elbow-grease", and I'm not adverse to hard work, but this sure looks like a BIG job to me. Are there any shortcuts to this kind of maintenance. It seems like the perfect place to use power tools (i.e., buffers etc.) How do other owners keep their fiberglass looking great? Also, my boat is still in the water (we don't do winter haulouts here in Texas), so how do you reach the hull?

Again, thanks in advance for your feedback.

Mike



M.Little@telops.gte.com

[Dana Arenius]

Another question, hope it doesn't sound too stupid. The CD28 I just purchased obviously hasn't had a fiberglass wax job for a couple of years. There is moderate to heavy oxidation and chalking on the deck and light to medium on the hull. I'm looking for suggestions on the easiest way to get the fiberglass looking great again. I've purchased some "3M Onestep" combination rubbing compound/wax, but haven't started anything yet. I don't mind using a little "elbow-grease", and I'm not adverse to hard work, but this sure looks like a BIG job to me. Are there any shortcuts to this kind of maintenance. It seems like the perfect place to use power tools (i.e., buffers etc.) How do other owners keep their fiberglass looking great? Also, my boat is still in the water (we don't do winter haulouts here in Texas), so how do you reach the hull?

Again, thanks in advance for your feedback.

Mike

____________________________________________________________________

Mike,

Can not let it go too long. It's like nature, oxidation is always going after that finish. I used to polish the boat by hand but last year I gave in to a buffer ($49-$69). I use a cleaner/wax combination and it really saves on the human wear and tear. It may take more work the first time to get it really up to standard, but after that it will be much easier from year to year. A slip with a floating dock really comes in handy for in-the-water work. You know what they say....the bigger the boat....!!!!!

Dana



darenius@aol.com

[John]

Another question, hope it doesn't sound too stupid. The CD28 I just purchased obviously hasn't had a fiberglass wax job for a couple of years. There is moderate to heavy oxidation and chalking on the deck and light to medium on the hull. I'm looking for suggestions on the easiest way to get the fiberglass looking great again. I've purchased some "3M Onestep" combination rubbing compound/wax, but haven't started anything yet. I don't mind using a little "elbow-grease", and I'm not adverse to hard work, but this sure looks like a BIG job to me. Are there any shortcuts to this kind of maintenance. It seems like the perfect place to use power tools (i.e., buffers etc.) How do other owners keep their fiberglass looking great? Also, my boat is still in the water (we don't do winter haulouts here in Texas), so how do you reach the hull?

Again, thanks in advance for your feedback.

Mike

Mike; We have a CD30 in SW Florida and conditions are very similar to yours in Texas, I can relate to your situation. We use "3M Heavy Duty Rubbing Compound" ( it is a thick liquid not a paste ) on difficult areas, all hand applied so we don't cut to deep into the gelcoat. On light to moderate areas we use Meguiers light duty cleaner hand applied. For final finishing we use 100% PURE Caranuba Wax with absolutely no cleaners or additives mixed in. "FLEETWAX" is a good brand ( available at West Marine and other sources ). "MOTHERS" is another good brand ( available at Pep Boys auto stores and other auto stores ).These can be applied by hand or buffer. Do it on a cloudy day and small areas at a time, very important. It renders a beautiful shine that holds up better than synthetic finishes. We apply wax twice a year, I know others who do it three times a year. We do the hull from our Metzeler inflatable. Our boat is also "wet" year round. Other folks use large styrofoam blocks attached to a 3/4" plywood work deck ( like a raft ). I prefer the dinghy, not as easy to knock things into the drink and easier on the bones.
P.S. Yes it is a big job. We only use buffers ( orbital only so we don't burn the gel ) on broad areas and only with the cleaner and wax when necessary.

[David Brownlee]

Last summer we hauled at mid season and cleaned and rewaxed because we planned to leave the boat in the water all winter. As it happened, the 3M rep was in the store when I went in to buy wax, and he convinced me to buy 3M's new Marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax (09030). I've always been a purist when it came to paste waxes, but this stuff is tremendous and has converted me to new technology. Just as the rep suggested, it has *completely* defeated the brown staining worn by most boats in the upper Chesapeake. (We're still in the water.) It's pricey ($15.95 for 9.5 oz.) but worth it.

My own question: what do people use on the non-skid sections of the deck? I must confess I've never used anything on the boats I've owned, with no apparent ill effects.

David Brownlee
CD27 "Windrush"
Havre de Grace, MD



dbrownle@mail.sas.upenn.edu

[Ed Roberts]

Mike,
I see that none of your answers so far address your question of the deck. Obviously a deck should not be waxed, but the oxidation can be scrubbed off, thus brightening the color, with something like Marykate Cleaning Detail - Heavy Duty Non-Skid Deck cleaner. This is strictly an abrasive cleaner with no waxy ingredient.
A warning: There is a product called Marine Penetrol which claims, among other things, that it "restores luster to faded fiberglass." It is true that it does this. It appears to be a varnish-like material which overcoats the oxidized fiberglass,
making it look great for a few months, but as it deteriorates in the sun the appearance becomes worse than before, and even harder to clean properly.
Ed Roberts



edwardroberts@sprintmail.com

[wayne grenier]

Mike,
I see that none of your answers so far address your question of the deck. Obviously a deck should not be waxed, but the oxidation can be scrubbed off, thus brightening the color, with something like Marykate Cleaning Detail - Heavy Duty Non-Skid Deck cleaner. This is strictly an abrasive cleaner with no waxy ingredient.
A warning: There is a product called Marine Penetrol which claims, among other things, that it "restores luster to faded fiberglass." It is true that it does this. It appears to be a varnish-like material which overcoats the oxidized fiberglass,
making it look great for a few months, but as it deteriorates in the sun the appearance becomes worse than before, and even harder to clean properly.
Ed Roberts