Prop selection for CD 33

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Maine Sail
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Re: CD 33 Prop selection

Post by Maine Sail »

CPowell wrote:WOW!!!! My head is spinning over the responses I have received! Thanks to all! BUT could someone sum this dissertation up and give me the best prop recommendation, size and pitch?
I have found all your replies very informative but how do I make a decision? Why did the engine supplier (Old Port Marine in Newport, RI) recommend a 15X14 three blade?
Chris :?
You would be best served to call a prop shop or professional who does this everyday for a living. Yanmar, Westerbeke and others often give some "standard" prop sizes in their manuals. Many boats however do not fit these parameters.

This is not as exact a science as some would have you believe and most engine manufacturers, these days, want a prop that will let you turn max rated RPM at wide open throttle, zero current and clean bottom. Even a degree of pitch the wrong way can throw you off by 300+/- RPM.

As it is, it took me two tries even with a pro, to get my prop right. Also, different props perform very differently. For example my Michigan Wheel 3 blade was a 16" X 12P and a full "Mickey Mouse Ears" style prop, as in big blades. I switched to a Campbell Sailor, same diameter, 16" with considerably LESS blade surface area, yet the pitch went from a 12P to a 9P.

The first try put me off by just about 300 RPM. Westerbeke is fairly adamant that they want a prop that will let you turn max rated RPM. I spoke at length with their inside engineers about this, trying to avoid a haul out and prop re-pitch. In the end Campbell sent me a new prop and I hauled and installed the right combination. Engines are more costly than a short haul and prop change while still in the slings. The engine is now within 30-50 RPM of max rated.

In short not all 16" X 12P props will perform the same so you are best to involve a professional, but even then, they are often off by some margin.

These props BOTH hit max rated RPM on my boat +/- 50 RPM. The Michigan Wheel has tons more surface area and a more aggressive, in theory, 12P. The CS is the same diameter, less surface area, and a 9P.


Please ignore the incorrectly installed prop nuts. My brother was helping, and I was teaching him how to lap fit & install a prop, which he did very well with, but, I apparently forgot to mention that the small nut goes on first. I did flip flop it before launch..

16" X 9P = 2970 RPM
Image

16 X 12P = 2985 RPM
Image

Not all props have the same efficiency and efficiency is not always derived on blade surface area. This is why I always have my props professionally sized despite owning Dave Gerr's book and having read it front to back.. :wink:
-Maine Sail
CS-36T
Broad Cove, Maine

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mgphl52
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Campbell Sailor

Post by mgphl52 »

Hi Chris,

If you can easily get the aperture measurements, I would suggest consulting with West by North Enterprises about their Campbell Sailor props. They custom build each prop and will assist in proper pitch selection and adjustment. The Sailor also has the least drag for a 3-blade prop. When we can afford to, we plan to get one for Tranquil.

-mike & Toni
-michael & Toni CDSOA #789
s/v KAYLA CD28 #318
2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic
Niceville FL
+30° 30' 24.60", -86° 26' 32.10"
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Zeida
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Location: 1982 CD33 "Bandolera II" Hull #73Key Biscayne-Miami, Florida
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Engine Repower

Post by Zeida »

Chris... some of us with CD-33's and the old Universal M30 are interested in the new engines and repowering possibilities. Is it possible that you may post pictures of your repowering and how much modification you had to do to the boat for the change, and approx. how much $ is it costing? Much appreciated. :roll:
Zeida
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CPowell
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Joined: Jan 20th, '10, 10:58
Location: CD 33, Spring Tides, Jamestown, RI

CD 33 Re-powering

Post by CPowell »

Zeida,
I am happy to post information on re-powering my CD 33 as it evolves.
The 2009 new Yanmar 3YM30 with transmission, engine mounts, basic panel, wire harness, hot water heater fittings and Amptech 120 Amp alternator was $8609 including 7% RI sales tax. Basic motor was $7700. I am doing all the work myself except removal of old engine and placing of the new engine on the mounts.
I disconnected the old engine completely and had the yard pull it when I had the mast removed for the winter. I also removed the wiring harness etc.
I did look at a 1981 CD 33 with the 3YM30 engine installed. No major engine bed modifications needed. After removing the old engine and mounts they used the original engine mount holes to mount 1/2" steel plates on each engine mount location (bolted with flat head SS machine bolts. The plates may be SS, but I am not sure. When the new engine position was established on the new plates the engine mounts were attached with SS bolts threaded into the new steel plates. Slight grinding of the fiberglass engine bed was needed to position the new plates.
While the engine is out I am cleaning, repainting and adding more sound proofing. I am also going to replace the 30 year old aluminum fuel tank, not worth taking a chance with an old tank.
There is a great article in the recent Cruising World about re-powering a CD 27. Great information and details on positioning the engine.
More later as I progress in the project.
Chris
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