Considering the purchase of a 1985 CD26. Have never owned a boat with the o/b well setup and had some questions about that:
can the o/b be run with the hatch closed. A friend of ours had this arrangement on an older O'day Tempest and he had to leave the well cover open when running the motor to properly vent the o/b. Didn't know if this was the case with the CD26 or not. The particular boat we're looking at also has some crazing on the well cover and other minor areas just outside of the cockpit area. Is this fairly common?
Any specific structural issues we should pay particular attention to?
Thanks for any suggestions!
Ross & Sandra Williams
Cumberland, ME
rosswilli@aol.com
CD26 motor well
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Dana
My kind of Subject, CD26 Hull #2
Ross and Sandra,
Concerning the engine well....use the web link below to get to my CD26 Web page....at the bottom of the page is another link to the outboard engine well discussion, pictures, and what I have for my CD26. The bottom line is....I never have to run with cover up. The pictures cover the installation of a Yamaha FT9.9EXK, 4 stroke (9.9HP, extra long shaft). The minor additions to the engine allow the idle bypass exhaust gas to exit out the bottom of the engine well rather than into the well. To some extent what must be done (if the previous owner has not done it) is based on the manufacturer of the engine.
Concerning your question of cracks in the cover of the engine well...no..I have not seen this...the covers are fairly crack free. Cracks along the outside of the coaming area caused by "drying out of the gel coat". I have repaired most of these on my boat. In this deck area, one can look from underneath (thru the sail lockers and visually "look" up thru the clear fiberglass. You will and should not see any stress cracking in the laminate in these areas...at least I have not seen it on my boat...
[img]http://members.aol.com/darenius/CapeDory/engwell.jpg[/img]
darenius@aol.com
Concerning the engine well....use the web link below to get to my CD26 Web page....at the bottom of the page is another link to the outboard engine well discussion, pictures, and what I have for my CD26. The bottom line is....I never have to run with cover up. The pictures cover the installation of a Yamaha FT9.9EXK, 4 stroke (9.9HP, extra long shaft). The minor additions to the engine allow the idle bypass exhaust gas to exit out the bottom of the engine well rather than into the well. To some extent what must be done (if the previous owner has not done it) is based on the manufacturer of the engine.
Concerning your question of cracks in the cover of the engine well...no..I have not seen this...the covers are fairly crack free. Cracks along the outside of the coaming area caused by "drying out of the gel coat". I have repaired most of these on my boat. In this deck area, one can look from underneath (thru the sail lockers and visually "look" up thru the clear fiberglass. You will and should not see any stress cracking in the laminate in these areas...at least I have not seen it on my boat...
[img]http://members.aol.com/darenius/CapeDory/engwell.jpg[/img]
darenius@aol.com
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Jim Stull
Re: CD26 motor well
Hi GuysRoss Williams wrote: Considering the purchase of a 1985 CD26. Have never owned a boat with the o/b well setup and had some questions about that:
can the o/b be run with the hatch closed. A friend of ours had this arrangement on an older O'day Tempest and he had to leave the well cover open when running the motor to properly vent the o/b. Didn't know if this was the case with the CD26 or not. The particular boat we're looking at also has some crazing on the well cover and other minor areas just outside of the cockpit area. Is this fairly common?
Any specific structural issues we should pay particular attention to?
Thanks for any suggestions!
Ross & Sandra Williams
Cumberland, ME
We have a '75 CD25 with the 8 HP Honda in the well. It took some trials and some modifications but my engine now runs perfectly with the cover closed. In fact I just ordered a sound proofing kit from Defender yesterday. Depending on which engine you have, you will find help on this website to make the necessary mods. If you have a Honda, I can e-mail you a couple of photos. Dana has photos on his site for mods to a Yamaha.
jtstull@icubed.com
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Rich
Re: My kind of Subject, CD26 Hull #2
Dana,
Thanks for the work you've done on this subject. I've also got a Yamaha 9.9 and I'm thinking about the conversion this spring. I've got a Yamaha shop manual that describes this conversion. It looks like there are some minor mods to the engine but the manual isn't clear, it might be that a kit is required to to attach the hose(s). Can you elaborate?
Thanks,
Rich
CD26, Hull #6
rpassmore42@hotmail.com
Thanks for the work you've done on this subject. I've also got a Yamaha 9.9 and I'm thinking about the conversion this spring. I've got a Yamaha shop manual that describes this conversion. It looks like there are some minor mods to the engine but the manual isn't clear, it might be that a kit is required to to attach the hose(s). Can you elaborate?
Thanks,
Rich
CD26, Hull #6
rpassmore42@hotmail.com
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Dana
Re: My kind of Subject, CD26 Hull #2
Sure,
For the Yamaha 9.9 there are two very small hoses to install. Both are about 1/4 ID. My web page has a picture of the hoses installed on the back of the engine...
One hose takes the exhaust gas from the oil removal separator, the second hose takes the exhaust gas from the idle blow-by exhaust port on the back of the skeg. The manual talks about a kit (I have never been able to identify it) but it is just a small section of aluminum tube which gets epoxied into that skeg exhaust hole. The hose then is slipped of the part of the tube which extends out the hole.
For the oil separator, I disconnected the hose between the oil separator (black box inside cowling) and the vent port which is located right next to the cooling water indicator plastic exhaust port on side of engine head. I drilled out the half of the plastic port for the oil separator gas to allow clearance of a hose ID right to the separator. My new installed "longer" hose is connected directly to the oil separator port...thru the new drilled hole...and just down to the level at the back of the engine skeg...where I can slip both hoses out of the engine well opening....
On my engine pictures you will also see a plastic pipe going down the back of the engine and into the bottom side, just above the cavitation plate....this is the fresh water flush pipe I installed. The side connection used to be just a port blank off screw which my engine came with a screw adapter for a hose connection. I converted it by epoxing the adapter into a plastic pipe end fitting after the adapter was screwed into the side. I know this looks strange but it is really nice to hook up a fresh water hose at the top of the engine head and flush out the engine from salt without lifting the engine. Along the back of the engine are a couple of plastic "tie wrap" foot mounts which have a center plastic nut/bolt thru the back of the exhaust skeg. The pipe is then secured to these mounts. This arrangement allows for "dropping" the lower unit for water pump work, etc....
I have not had to repair or modify these items in 13 years....
[img]http://members.aol.com/darenius/CapeDory/engine.jpg[/img]
darenius@aol.com
For the Yamaha 9.9 there are two very small hoses to install. Both are about 1/4 ID. My web page has a picture of the hoses installed on the back of the engine...
One hose takes the exhaust gas from the oil removal separator, the second hose takes the exhaust gas from the idle blow-by exhaust port on the back of the skeg. The manual talks about a kit (I have never been able to identify it) but it is just a small section of aluminum tube which gets epoxied into that skeg exhaust hole. The hose then is slipped of the part of the tube which extends out the hole.
For the oil separator, I disconnected the hose between the oil separator (black box inside cowling) and the vent port which is located right next to the cooling water indicator plastic exhaust port on side of engine head. I drilled out the half of the plastic port for the oil separator gas to allow clearance of a hose ID right to the separator. My new installed "longer" hose is connected directly to the oil separator port...thru the new drilled hole...and just down to the level at the back of the engine skeg...where I can slip both hoses out of the engine well opening....
On my engine pictures you will also see a plastic pipe going down the back of the engine and into the bottom side, just above the cavitation plate....this is the fresh water flush pipe I installed. The side connection used to be just a port blank off screw which my engine came with a screw adapter for a hose connection. I converted it by epoxing the adapter into a plastic pipe end fitting after the adapter was screwed into the side. I know this looks strange but it is really nice to hook up a fresh water hose at the top of the engine head and flush out the engine from salt without lifting the engine. Along the back of the engine are a couple of plastic "tie wrap" foot mounts which have a center plastic nut/bolt thru the back of the exhaust skeg. The pipe is then secured to these mounts. This arrangement allows for "dropping" the lower unit for water pump work, etc....
I have not had to repair or modify these items in 13 years....
Rich wrote: Dana,
Thanks for the work you've done on this subject. I've also got a Yamaha 9.9 and I'm thinking about the conversion this spring. I've got a Yamaha shop manual that describes this conversion. It looks like there are some minor mods to the engine but the manual isn't clear, it might be that a kit is required to to attach the hose(s). Can you elaborate?
Thanks,
Rich
CD26, Hull #6
[img]http://members.aol.com/darenius/CapeDory/engine.jpg[/img]
darenius@aol.com