Blue Tape

woodisgood · Post by **woodisgood** » Dec 5th, '09, 21:02

Well this is the discussion board...let's discuss how long you should leave blue tape on a boat while you are varnishing. I now know the wrong answer. A month would be to long.

Now I have the pleasure of trying to remove it. If anyone wants to come over and help just bring a razor blade, goof off, and a green scrub pad. I seem to make about 3' feet of progress an hour so plan to stay a while.

If anyone knows an easier way to do this let me know. Any help would be great.

John Vigor · Post by **John Vigor** » Dec 5th, '09, 23:15

Having been caught too many times in the past, I now never leave blue tape on more than 24 hours if it's in open daylight or sunlight. Inside, under cover, I might leave it on a week. If I'm varnishing outside, I re-tape for every coat.

Maybe I'm super-cautious, but rather that than face the terrible job of scraping or scrubbing it off inch by inch.

John V.

Sea Hunt · Post by **Sea Hunt** » Dec 5th, '09, 23:37

When I redid my toe rails and rub rails, it took me five days - 3 days for 3 separate coats of Cetol Marine Natural Teak and 2 days for 2 separate coats of Cetol Clear Gloss. I used the 3M blue tape (1 1/2" width

). I did this about March/April 2009 while she was on her mooring in South Florida - sunny and warm. I had no difficulty removing the tape after being on a total of six (6) days.

The Patriot · Post by **The Patriot** » Dec 6th, '09, 06:44

woodisgood wrote: ... how long you should leave blue tape on a boat while you are varnishing ... If anyone knows an easier way to do this let me know ...

The crew at our boatyard put me onto a product that really works. 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner 08984 in the red and white can is the answer. However this product is aimed primarily at removing the residue left by tapes. The majority of the actual tape must be removed prior to use.

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Dec 6th, '09, 07:19

Rain or dew seems to be more of a problem than sun when dealing with tape.

It is basically paper so doesn't hold up well to moisture, Steve.

Warren Kaplan · Post by **Warren Kaplan** » Dec 6th, '09, 07:21

We had a thread on this very subject many years ago. I remember the mess of glue the blue tape left on my boat when I left it on a few days. If I remember correctly I had absolutely NO TROUBLE when I used the green tape....but I believe its more expensive!

Kevin Kaldenbach · Post by **Kevin Kaldenbach** » Dec 6th, '09, 08:16

When we bought our Typhoon a year ago it came with blue tape already on the boat. I guess the PO left it on incase he wanted to â€œrepaintâ€

Dick Barthel · Post by **Dick Barthel** » Dec 6th, '09, 09:03

I agree with Steve's comments regarding moisture. If it rains on the tape TAKE IT OFF the first chance you get. I've learned the hard way.

Dick

S/V Necessity · Post by **S/V Necessity** » Dec 6th, '09, 16:23

We seem to have much better luck with the 3M tape that has an orange color on the cardboard inner portion. Painters tape for delicate surfaces #2080 I think. We have left it on for well over a month on several occasions, and so far no problems (knocking on wood right now) We have used the blue tape that's less expensive and our experience was much the same as yours, miserable.

Bill Goldsmith · Post by **Bill Goldsmith** » Dec 6th, '09, 18:01

kerrydeare wrote:
woodisgood wrote: ... how long you should leave blue tape on a boat while you are varnishing ... If anyone knows an easier way to do this let me know ...
The crew at our boatyard put me onto a product that really works. 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner 08984 in the red and white can is the answer. However this product is aimed primarily at removing the residue left by tapes. The majority of the actual tape must be removed prior to use.

The 3M stuff is a lifesaver but it's extremely toxic. Be sure to use a good organic vapor respirator and rubber gloves.

I find that a heat gun on low or a hair dryer is good at loosening difficult tape. Unfortunately if you're relegated to the heat method for removing the tape, you'll also have adhesive residue to deal with.

On a tangent to this thread, what's the best tape that people have found--one that works well for masking, can tolerate being left on for a *liittle* longer than recommended, and comes off easily. Is this the Holy Grail?

tartansailor · Post by **tartansailor** » Dec 6th, '09, 19:05

3M Black Electricians tape.

Dick

Warren Kaplan · Post by **Warren Kaplan** » Dec 6th, '09, 20:15

Bill,
Its been a while but I found that the "green tape" works quite well and comes off without leaving a residue!!

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Dec 6th, '09, 20:24

Here are some random thoughts I have on the use of masking tape. Yes, vinyl electrical tape works fine for masking.

Unless it is a real quickie job, I hardly ever use tan or blue masking tape. I like to use green tape. It doesn't seem to be so time sensitive as the others.

Sometimes I slice short sections of tape in half for taping intricate curves. Then I use a full width second piece of tape to widen the masked area.

On straight runs, I sometimes use automotive masking that can be 2" or 3" wide. This is made of brown paper bag or craft type paper with maybe 1/4" or 3/8" stickum along only one edge.

When using traditional masking tape of 1/2", 3/8" or 3/4" width, oftentimes I only apply pressure along the tape edge that masks the paint line. No need to press the entire width of the tape to the work.

To ensure a clean, crisp edge that won't allow paint to flow under uneven edges of the masking tape, I press the tape to the work with a wallpaper seam roller. It is only necessary to roll the mask line, not the entire tape width. This makes for easier tape removal later on.

These rollers are available at paint supply stores or home supplys.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2FDJ6

Item # 2FDJ6 (typical idea of seam roller)

O J

SPIBob · Post by **SPIBob** » Dec 6th, '09, 23:20

I quit using masking tape for exterior teak refinishing years ago. With a high quality brush and a little extra care and a piece of paper towel handy, the job is way easier tapeless. Way easier and much faster.

No tedious masking, unmasking and remasking, no worries about finish pulling away from the teak when unmasking, no worries about adhesive residue, no seeping of finish under the tape where a bit of dust raised the tape a couple of microns, etc.

Warren Kaplan · Post by **Warren Kaplan** » Dec 7th, '09, 06:27

SPIBob wrote:I quit using masking tape for exterior teak refinishing years ago. With a high quality brush and a little extra care and a piece of paper towel handy, the job is way easier tapeless. Way easier and much faster.

No tedious masking, unmasking and remasking, no worries about finish pulling away from the teak when unmasking, no worries about adhesive residue, no seeping of finish under the tape where a bit of dust raised the tape a couple of microns, etc.

This is exactly what I do and have done for the past few years. I decided to do that after I spent a day taping the boat only to find that there were spots where the varnish/paint/cetol had gotten under it. By the time I removed the tape (easily or otherwise) it was too late. The stuff had dried and I had a dried mess to clean.

I go along with a bucket filled with plenty of clean rags and/or paper towels. I use a good brush and if some finish gets where its not supposed to I wipe it up immediately. End of problem. It also saves time because I don't have to waste all that time taping and then removing the tape (which I grant is easy if the glue comes off the boat with the tape!)

The Cape Dory Board

Blue Tape

Blue Tape

Caught too many times

Re: Blue Tape

tape

rain!

Re: Blue Tape

The "Holy Grail"

Masking Tape

Going Tapeless

Re: Going Tapeless