Hand cranking 1GM
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Hand cranking 1GM
Mark from Surry Maine was looking for a hand crank to go with his engine in the Buy/Sell page and thought that our conversation may be of interest to you on the main page.
He had heard that hand cranking a 1GM was difficult and I responded with the following instructions on how we hand cranked our CD27:
Hard to crank? I had a 1GM with a bum alternator. We crank started it all of the time. Just make sure to pull the decompression lever on the top of the engine, get the flywheel spinning and then ease off on the decompression lever. You do need to be careful not to allow water to come in and sit on top of the cylinder head. We worked it out and it wasn't a problem. In the long run, a solar panel worked best. This was all on a CD27 (1GM was underpowered for this boat). We never had any problems with the 25D that we had.
One thing that he questioned was the water part of things. In a follow up, I responded:
When we would crankstart, our engine usually turned over pretty quick but if it didn't and you had to crank a while, the water pump was bringing water into the system. With the mixing elbow, water sometimes came back onto the cylinder from the mixing elbow. If allowed to sit on this, it could cause a problem. We ened up blowing a head gasket and it was a major problem. The mechanic that worked on it said that the water may have contributed to it.
We actually would keep the water intake seacock turned off until the engine fired and this prevented any possibility of water getting places where it doesn't belong. You have to be quick with turning it on as soon as it starts firing. We didn't have any problems after this.
The solar panel helped also.
Maybe someone else has some ideas on hand cranking but this may also help someone if the need arises.
Bob B.
CD Typhoon
Liberty
Lancaster, SC
He had heard that hand cranking a 1GM was difficult and I responded with the following instructions on how we hand cranked our CD27:
Hard to crank? I had a 1GM with a bum alternator. We crank started it all of the time. Just make sure to pull the decompression lever on the top of the engine, get the flywheel spinning and then ease off on the decompression lever. You do need to be careful not to allow water to come in and sit on top of the cylinder head. We worked it out and it wasn't a problem. In the long run, a solar panel worked best. This was all on a CD27 (1GM was underpowered for this boat). We never had any problems with the 25D that we had.
One thing that he questioned was the water part of things. In a follow up, I responded:
When we would crankstart, our engine usually turned over pretty quick but if it didn't and you had to crank a while, the water pump was bringing water into the system. With the mixing elbow, water sometimes came back onto the cylinder from the mixing elbow. If allowed to sit on this, it could cause a problem. We ened up blowing a head gasket and it was a major problem. The mechanic that worked on it said that the water may have contributed to it.
We actually would keep the water intake seacock turned off until the engine fired and this prevented any possibility of water getting places where it doesn't belong. You have to be quick with turning it on as soon as it starts firing. We didn't have any problems after this.
The solar panel helped also.
Maybe someone else has some ideas on hand cranking but this may also help someone if the need arises.
Bob B.
CD Typhoon
Liberty
Lancaster, SC
- M. R. Bober
- Posts: 1122
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 08:59
- Location: CARETAKER CD28 Flybridge Trawler
Not me
I tried--repeatedly--for seventeen years to hand crank TIA MARIA (1979 CD 27) with zero successes. I followed the manual's instructions, used the decompression lever, cranked until the flywheel was flying, but the instant that I eased off of the decompression lever the engine halted IMMEDIATELY. I was young enough and strong enough, but that engine did not want to hand crank. OBTW: the engine started effortlessly with the starter.
Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster (where facts are facts,) VA
Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster (where facts are facts,) VA
CDSOA Founding Member
- tartansailor
- Posts: 1530
- Joined: Aug 30th, '05, 13:55
- Location: CD25, Renaissance, Milton, DE
Ether
Ether, otherwise known as "starter fluid" from an auto parts store
makes starting diesels easy. Just be sparing in usage.
Dick
makes starting diesels easy. Just be sparing in usage.
Dick
I wouldn't
Starting fluid/ether is a no no with a diesel. Volatile enough when used with a gas engine it can be dangerous with the closer tolerances and pressures a diesel produces, not at all good for the motor.
________
VZ1600
________
VZ1600
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 06:13, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Not me
I am guessing that 1979 means you had a YSM8?M. R. Bober wrote:I tried--repeatedly--for seventeen years to hand crank TIA MARIA (1979 CD 27) with zero successes.
I'm also curious if you worked out some sort of special 'boat yoga' position to swing the crank, and work the decompression lever at the same time? It seems to me like it would be awkward to do this.
Yoga
For us it was a yoga type of experience. It has been a few years but I do remember holding the decompression lever over while turning the crank. Ours could turn with one hand and I was reaching across the top of the engine with the other. It wasn't easy but the engine started for us. I suppose different throttle settings and such may work better for some engines.
The use of ether as a starting fluid will eventually cut down the lubrication on the rings and can cause the engine to become somewhat addicted to the either. At least this is what the mechanics have told me. Use it sparingly and only on the coldest cranking moments.
I worked on ICW tugs for a while and we had large diesels where I only remember two instances of having to use starting fluid. Below freezing temps where we had been shut down for over a weekend.
The use of ether as a starting fluid will eventually cut down the lubrication on the rings and can cause the engine to become somewhat addicted to the either. At least this is what the mechanics have told me. Use it sparingly and only on the coldest cranking moments.
I worked on ICW tugs for a while and we had large diesels where I only remember two instances of having to use starting fluid. Below freezing temps where we had been shut down for over a weekend.
Yes, ether is not good for an engine. However, I do carry a bottle of it just in case. I have been in the situation where the starting battery went dead and could just barely roll over the engine but wouldn't do it fast enough to fire. A small shot of ether saved a late fall day anchored out at a remote island.
WD40 can be used as a not so harmful ether but it still isn't great.
So has anyone hand cranked an MD7A? The volvo manual suggests that it can be done but the Cape Dory one says not to. Maybe it is because of the V-drive configuration in a lot of boats?
WD40 can be used as a not so harmful ether but it still isn't great.
So has anyone hand cranked an MD7A? The volvo manual suggests that it can be done but the Cape Dory one says not to. Maybe it is because of the V-drive configuration in a lot of boats?
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- Posts: 380
- Joined: Mar 14th, '05, 09:14
I did this several times on the original MD7A in my CD 28 (which does NOT have a V-drive transmission). The original engine was replaced with another Volvo in 1993, but not because of starting issues or issues related to starting fluids. Aside, I wonder what effect the V-drive might have, since there is little reason to start the engine in gear.Klem wrote: ... has anyone hand cranked an MD7A? The volvo manual suggests that it can be done but the Cape Dory one says not to. Maybe it is because of the V-drive configuration in a lot of boats?
Initially I did this to prove to myself that it was a viable method. At other times I did it because it was necessary to get going. I never tried it in cold conditions, and only once do I remember a mechanic starting the MD7A with ether when I could not get it going myself.
- John Vigor
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WD-40
Has anyone actually tried to start a diesel with WD-40 since the aerosol propellant was changed to carbon dioxide? Wouldn't the CO2 tend to discourage ignition, rather than help it?Klem wrote: A small shot of ether saved a late fall day anchored out at a remote island.
WD40 can be used as a not so harmful ether but it still isn't great.
John V.
Re: WD-40
I was not aware that the propellant was changed. I haven't used this trick in probably 3 or 4 years at this point(all of my diesels actually run well now) but it did work quite well then. I guess if it doesn't work now, I will know why.John Vigor wrote: Has anyone actually tried to start a diesel with WD-40 since the aerosol propellant was changed to carbon dioxide? Wouldn't the CO2 tend to discourage ignition, rather than help it?
John V.
My question about the V-drive and the volvo engine is more related to access. I assume that there is not place to hook up a crank on the back of the engine which is what you see when the hatch is opened.
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Apr 21st, '06, 16:17
Hand Cranking 1 GM
To use ether with less risk of engine damage, try spraying a very short shot of ether onto a folded rag, and holding the rag an inch or two from the air intake.
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- Joined: Jul 31st, '07, 16:06
- Location: 1980 CD27 #158
"Altariel", Juneau, Alaska
more re wd40
A little shot of wd40 into the breather tube works fine, new propellant or not, in cold weather starting my YSM 8.
- Steve Laume
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