CD 27 Repower Conversation
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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- Posts: 630
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:38
Steve -- reply
Hi Steve,
To answer some of your questions: no, the panels are not tabbed to the hull but are (mostly) screwed to existing factory paneling. I had to epoxy mounting blocks at a couple of places. There is one of these to the deck on this last panel. Note there is a 1/2" gap between the bottom of my panels and the hull. That's because of hull flexing -- not much but in time it's enough to really mess up the way things fit together. I will try to not make an "airtight" compartment by sealing off all the edges, around scupper hoses, etc., until I see what the sound levels are. This makes for a much cleaner installation. Yes, I am installing a PSS Dripless Seal. One more thing: the oil filter must be remoted as the engine bed poses a fit problem with the standard filter. I haven't decided whether to have the fan on the ignition switch or not. The power wiring is accessible and that option is open.
The two Beta 14's I've heard first-hand were (subjectively, anyway) significantly quieter than my Westerbeke 13. The Beta is 110 lbs lighter, noticeably smaller, somewhat more powerful, and let's assume quieter. With the service points at the front of the engine I think the improvement will be significant. It was a close choice between this and the comparable Yanmar and the service point accessibility was the key factor.
There's one more panel to make then it's making sure all the connections and peripheral equipment are properly done. Only then will the new engine be installed. I will have enough pictures of this entire process, A to Z, to make a useable "how-to" manual and intend to do that when the installation is finished.
________
SY99
To answer some of your questions: no, the panels are not tabbed to the hull but are (mostly) screwed to existing factory paneling. I had to epoxy mounting blocks at a couple of places. There is one of these to the deck on this last panel. Note there is a 1/2" gap between the bottom of my panels and the hull. That's because of hull flexing -- not much but in time it's enough to really mess up the way things fit together. I will try to not make an "airtight" compartment by sealing off all the edges, around scupper hoses, etc., until I see what the sound levels are. This makes for a much cleaner installation. Yes, I am installing a PSS Dripless Seal. One more thing: the oil filter must be remoted as the engine bed poses a fit problem with the standard filter. I haven't decided whether to have the fan on the ignition switch or not. The power wiring is accessible and that option is open.
The two Beta 14's I've heard first-hand were (subjectively, anyway) significantly quieter than my Westerbeke 13. The Beta is 110 lbs lighter, noticeably smaller, somewhat more powerful, and let's assume quieter. With the service points at the front of the engine I think the improvement will be significant. It was a close choice between this and the comparable Yanmar and the service point accessibility was the key factor.
There's one more panel to make then it's making sure all the connections and peripheral equipment are properly done. Only then will the new engine be installed. I will have enough pictures of this entire process, A to Z, to make a useable "how-to" manual and intend to do that when the installation is finished.
________
SY99
Last edited by Andy Denmark on Feb 13th, '11, 03:44, edited 1 time in total.
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- Posts: 630
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:38
Progress report
Here are a few more pictures of Rhiannon's progress.
The first picture is the Beta Instrument Panel with all vital gauges plus idiot lights. The adjacent red panel to the left has the Autohelm 2000 hookup on top and a Dri-Plug socket beneath for spotlight or anything else that takes 12 V. The socket is polarized. Althought the spotlight doesn't care other things do.
The other pictures are a progression of how the port aft panel is installed. As you can see the sound insulation covers a multitude of sins (ahem).
Paneling is now complete and the next step is to get the other details sorted out and done. Then the boatyard takes over and finishes the installation. I just can't get my body underneath the cockpit any more -- too much twisting around and working upside down.
While this is happening I will put the brass rub strip back on and paint the bottom. If the weather holds Rhiannon just might be overboard by the weekend although I've quit trying to forecast anymore. Fingers crossed ..........
<a href="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... tPanel.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... l.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... Panel1.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... 1.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... Panel3.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... 3.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... nel2-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... 1.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... Panel4.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... 4.jpg"></a>
The first picture is the Beta Instrument Panel with all vital gauges plus idiot lights. The adjacent red panel to the left has the Autohelm 2000 hookup on top and a Dri-Plug socket beneath for spotlight or anything else that takes 12 V. The socket is polarized. Althought the spotlight doesn't care other things do.
The other pictures are a progression of how the port aft panel is installed. As you can see the sound insulation covers a multitude of sins (ahem).
Paneling is now complete and the next step is to get the other details sorted out and done. Then the boatyard takes over and finishes the installation. I just can't get my body underneath the cockpit any more -- too much twisting around and working upside down.
While this is happening I will put the brass rub strip back on and paint the bottom. If the weather holds Rhiannon just might be overboard by the weekend although I've quit trying to forecast anymore. Fingers crossed ..........
<a href="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... tPanel.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... l.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... Panel1.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... 1.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... Panel3.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... 3.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... nel2-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... 1.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... Panel4.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... 4.jpg"></a>
s/v Rhiannon
"In order to be old and wise, one first must have been young and stupid ...
"In order to be old and wise, one first must have been young and stupid ...
- Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
Now you have me wondering why I switched all my bilge and locker paint to white. Gray makes much more sense.
It looks like you are simply blocking out any place that things need to be attached where there is sound dampening. I will be very interested in just how much things quiet down when you are finished. It will be hard to compare with the new Beta engine being much quieter any way. Very nice job so far.
Raven comes back to my shop on Tuesday. I have some other non boat work that needs to get done first but then I will be tackling my own engine compartment. I need to pull the engine to get the transmission out so now is the time.
I kind of wish I was putting one of those brand new Betas in but it would be very hard to justify with a Universal that is running perfectly fine.
Things are looking great, Steve.
It looks like you are simply blocking out any place that things need to be attached where there is sound dampening. I will be very interested in just how much things quiet down when you are finished. It will be hard to compare with the new Beta engine being much quieter any way. Very nice job so far.
Raven comes back to my shop on Tuesday. I have some other non boat work that needs to get done first but then I will be tackling my own engine compartment. I need to pull the engine to get the transmission out so now is the time.
I kind of wish I was putting one of those brand new Betas in but it would be very hard to justify with a Universal that is running perfectly fine.
Things are looking great, Steve.
Westerbeke 12 C Two
For what it is worth, I opted to go with the Westerbeke 12CTwo for repowering my CD 27 this winter. For two years I have pondered which engine and took a test drive on a CD 27 "Lilypad" in the Annapolis area that was repowered with a Beta Marine Engine like Andy's. No negatives that I could see in the Beta's performance in "frisky" winds and wave conditions.
Ultimately, it came down to faith in the mechanic who is to do the repowering - he is not a Beta distributor but is a Westerbeke distributor. As such, he could beat the boat show price quoted to me by Westerbeke. The torque calculations are similar so I'm not too worried about the 1.5 less HP.
The actual work will probably be done in late January 2010.
Robin Meigel
s/v Pacem
1979 CD 27
Ultimately, it came down to faith in the mechanic who is to do the repowering - he is not a Beta distributor but is a Westerbeke distributor. As such, he could beat the boat show price quoted to me by Westerbeke. The torque calculations are similar so I'm not too worried about the 1.5 less HP.
The actual work will probably be done in late January 2010.
Robin Meigel
s/v Pacem
1979 CD 27
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- Posts: 630
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:38
Bilge area rework
Robin -- That's a nice engine. Please keep me posted how the repower is going with your boat.
All - Thought I might as well upgrade the bilge area while Rhiannon is on the hard. Here's a self-explanatory picture taken today. FWIW, I used threaded inserts to mount the StarBoard base to the fwd edge of the (former) holding tank. They work fine.
With the exception of terminating a couple of wires and mounting the vented loop on the water injection line I am pretty much finished with the engine compartment. I ran out of camera memory or there'd be some pictures on this post. I'll try to get those tomorrow.
<a href="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... 156366.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... 6.jpg"></a>
________
1937 Ford
All - Thought I might as well upgrade the bilge area while Rhiannon is on the hard. Here's a self-explanatory picture taken today. FWIW, I used threaded inserts to mount the StarBoard base to the fwd edge of the (former) holding tank. They work fine.
With the exception of terminating a couple of wires and mounting the vented loop on the water injection line I am pretty much finished with the engine compartment. I ran out of camera memory or there'd be some pictures on this post. I'll try to get those tomorrow.
<a href="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... 156366.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... 6.jpg"></a>
________
1937 Ford
Last edited by Andy Denmark on Feb 13th, '11, 03:45, edited 1 time in total.
- Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
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- Posts: 630
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:38
Sans Holding Tank
Steve,
The holding tank didn't "go" anywhere, I just stopped using the thing and replaced the head and all associated plumbing with a Sani-Potti. This is a worthwhile change that greatly reduces maintenance issues and increases olfactory aesthetics. Operation is simple and emptying it is not unpleasant because of advanced treatment chemicals.
Andy
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FORD ECOSPORT PICTURE
The holding tank didn't "go" anywhere, I just stopped using the thing and replaced the head and all associated plumbing with a Sani-Potti. This is a worthwhile change that greatly reduces maintenance issues and increases olfactory aesthetics. Operation is simple and emptying it is not unpleasant because of advanced treatment chemicals.
Andy
________
FORD ECOSPORT PICTURE
Last edited by Andy Denmark on Feb 13th, '11, 03:45, edited 1 time in total.
Cape Dory 27 Repower - Westerbeke 12 C 2
Folks I'm happy - no - thrilled - to report that s/v Pacem has a new engine and here are the photos. The mechanic that installed this engine was Tom Gunther of Gunther Marine at Holiday Point Marina in Edgewater, MD.
Very little was needed to adapt the forward engine mounts, rear engine mounts were fabricated to simulate virtually the same foot print as the old Yanmar thus avoiding making major cuts in the drip bed. The bigger engine required bigger hoses, hence the need to make a cut in the cockpit locker access bulkhead. You can also see that minor cuts were needed in the frame behind the companionway stairwell to get the engine in.
I've seen a Yanmar 10 installed in a CD 27 - it is huge for the space and required that the drip bed be removed to accommodate it.
The Beta Marine on Lilypad, if memory serves, needed to be mounted much higher off the original mount location in the front to marry the angle of the prop shaft with the coupler.
But there is no getting around the fact that this is a bigger engine. At one point the mechanic asked Westerbeke what the restocking fee would be! But as you can see - he found a way.
Here you see the starboard cockpit locker - the removable bulkhead on the left was cut to allow the bigger hose to go through:
<a href="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... G_0909.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... 9.jpg"></a>
Here you see the new control panel - many more bells and whistles yet it fits in the same space:
<a href="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... G_0910.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... 0.jpg"></a>
The old prop was a 3 blade left hand, the new engine requires a right hand - the new 3 blade prop pictured here is 12 x 8:
<a href="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... G_0913.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... 3.jpg"></a>
Bigger hoses, including the exhaust hose - mandated a new exhaust fitting:
<a href="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... G_0914.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... 4.jpg"></a>
And now what you have been waiting for:
<a href="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... G_0911.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... 1.jpg"></a>
The hose you see in the lower front is routing the raw water from the port seacock to the intake on the opposite side of the engine.
We will be listing the perfectly good YSM8 with all of the ancillaries and 2 props on Craigs List and other places.
Very little was needed to adapt the forward engine mounts, rear engine mounts were fabricated to simulate virtually the same foot print as the old Yanmar thus avoiding making major cuts in the drip bed. The bigger engine required bigger hoses, hence the need to make a cut in the cockpit locker access bulkhead. You can also see that minor cuts were needed in the frame behind the companionway stairwell to get the engine in.
I've seen a Yanmar 10 installed in a CD 27 - it is huge for the space and required that the drip bed be removed to accommodate it.
The Beta Marine on Lilypad, if memory serves, needed to be mounted much higher off the original mount location in the front to marry the angle of the prop shaft with the coupler.
But there is no getting around the fact that this is a bigger engine. At one point the mechanic asked Westerbeke what the restocking fee would be! But as you can see - he found a way.
Here you see the starboard cockpit locker - the removable bulkhead on the left was cut to allow the bigger hose to go through:
<a href="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... G_0909.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... 9.jpg"></a>
Here you see the new control panel - many more bells and whistles yet it fits in the same space:
<a href="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... G_0910.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... 0.jpg"></a>
The old prop was a 3 blade left hand, the new engine requires a right hand - the new 3 blade prop pictured here is 12 x 8:
<a href="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... G_0913.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... 3.jpg"></a>
Bigger hoses, including the exhaust hose - mandated a new exhaust fitting:
<a href="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... G_0914.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... 4.jpg"></a>
And now what you have been waiting for:
<a href="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... G_0911.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m29/ ... 1.jpg"></a>
The hose you see in the lower front is routing the raw water from the port seacock to the intake on the opposite side of the engine.
We will be listing the perfectly good YSM8 with all of the ancillaries and 2 props on Craigs List and other places.
- Warren Kaplan
- Posts: 1147
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:44
- Location: Former owner of Sine Qua Non CD27 #166 1980 Oyster Bay Harbor, NY Member # 317
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- Posts: 630
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:38
Nice installation
Good job, Robin,
Looks great and I'm sure you'll appreciate the power and reliability you've gained. This Westerbeke engine was one I strongly considered for Rhiannon but concern about size was a deciding factor for me.
Did you also replace the exhaust hose and outlet? I notice the area around the fitting on the transom is cleaned off as if it had been replaced. I upgraded Rhiannon's exhaust line to 2-1/2"and think that you might have done the same.
Rhiannon was Betamarine's developmental prototype for engine brackets that now make the Beta 14 drop-in compatible with the standard Cape Dory engine beds. These brackets are bolted to the engine block and are are specific to mounting many popular engines the Beta is replacing. With these brackets everything lines up -- except the exhaust elbow that is on the opposite side (easily adapted) so there are no custom-fabricated mountings or bed modifications necessary. I understand that other engine manufacturers are implementing similar programs.
Many happy hours of motoring, Robin. There's comfort in knowing that the "iron jenny" is there for ya' when you need it!
Andy
________
Yamaha Dragstar 1100 Specifications
Looks great and I'm sure you'll appreciate the power and reliability you've gained. This Westerbeke engine was one I strongly considered for Rhiannon but concern about size was a deciding factor for me.
Did you also replace the exhaust hose and outlet? I notice the area around the fitting on the transom is cleaned off as if it had been replaced. I upgraded Rhiannon's exhaust line to 2-1/2"and think that you might have done the same.
Rhiannon was Betamarine's developmental prototype for engine brackets that now make the Beta 14 drop-in compatible with the standard Cape Dory engine beds. These brackets are bolted to the engine block and are are specific to mounting many popular engines the Beta is replacing. With these brackets everything lines up -- except the exhaust elbow that is on the opposite side (easily adapted) so there are no custom-fabricated mountings or bed modifications necessary. I understand that other engine manufacturers are implementing similar programs.
Many happy hours of motoring, Robin. There's comfort in knowing that the "iron jenny" is there for ya' when you need it!
Andy
________
Yamaha Dragstar 1100 Specifications
Last edited by Andy Denmark on Feb 13th, '11, 03:46, edited 1 time in total.
CD 27 Repowering Westerbeke 12 C TWO
Andy,
Yes, the exhaust hose is larger. You can see it in the first photo where it prompted the cutout in the removable bulkhead so it could pass through.
Re Beta Marine engine mounts - the dealer told me that the CD 27 engine beds were different as between original Yanmars and original other engine types. He told me that my engine bed would not require the same effort as did your engine bed for the Beta Marine 13 and from that I concluded that your former engine was not a Yanmar.
I'm enjoying reading the manual. More things to learn how to fix.
Robin
Yes, the exhaust hose is larger. You can see it in the first photo where it prompted the cutout in the removable bulkhead so it could pass through.
Re Beta Marine engine mounts - the dealer told me that the CD 27 engine beds were different as between original Yanmars and original other engine types. He told me that my engine bed would not require the same effort as did your engine bed for the Beta Marine 13 and from that I concluded that your former engine was not a Yanmar.
I'm enjoying reading the manual. More things to learn how to fix.
Robin