Please ID this item in Typhoon's bilge

[Dick Villamil]

I had the very same problem with freeze damage from water in the bilge in the 1976 Ty when I bought it. Water had frozen in the bilge and separated the fiberglass from the keel weight. I was able to identify the voids, drain the water and flush with alcohol then acetone to dry the voids out - then fill with polyester resin - what a mess but it worked! Syringed it in from one hole until it exited anoother hole. This was repeated until no more resin was able to be put into the many voids. I then had to dreml out the cracks that were caused by the ice damage and fill with epoxy resin and filler/microballoons etc. Finally I sanded the entire hull and applied 3 coats of barrier coat before ading bottom paint. The voids in front of the rudder were massive and required removing punky resin - watersoaked and fragmented fiberglass - large enough holes to put my entire fist through from one side to the other. Results are fantastic and After getting the Ty for a super bargain I now know more about this boat than any other I ever owned. I would do this again and some day may look for another project boat - just for grins!!!! Get the water out BEFORE it freezes so it can start to dry. You can make another access hole cover easily with a block of teak or any other wood for that matter. Do not get tempted to use the keel lifting ring because it was ponly used once to install the 900 lb keel (boat weights over a ton). Probably there has been a lot of rust around the boat and it won't be trustworthy. Others who have used it to lift the Ty found that it didn't lift evenly. As for water in the balsa core - check around all the deck hardeware and shrouds - good luck!

[stollie]

Thanks for your input, everybody.

Yesterday, I was able to take about 70 pictures of the boat and time permitting, I'll try to post some of them.

Noel

[stollie]

Hi everybody,

I've posted pictures of boat I'd like to fix up on Flickr's website, and would be most appreciative of all comments posted back here on the CD board.

Pix are at http://www.flickr.com/photos/stollie5446/ and for anyone who hasn't used flickr, one first has to have a free yahoo account (www.yahoo.com) and signup for this is super quick and easy. I did it today in about a minute.

Thanks for all your comments,

[Markst95]

Thanks for the pics. On looking through them I noticed a couple of areas that might need some repair. One of the cockpit drains has some serious gel coat cracking and might have some core rot underneath. The seacocks look really dated and should be replaced along with the hoses, see the past posts to give you an idea of whats available. If you want to tackle it now would be a good time to enlarge the cockpit drains, one of the problems owners have noticed over the years is slow draining. The rudders bottom gugeon has a crack in the fiberglass covering it. If the rest of the rudder looks in good shape that shouldn't be much of problem, just sand out the groove and fill with a epoxy\colloidal silica mix. You didn't mention the condition of the sails or if the motor mount is included, two expensive items to replace if you don't have them. Keep up the posts.

[Bob B]

Looks similar to the one that I am working on with a few exceptions. I have removed all of the woodwork except for the rubrail and had to replace some sections of that. You can see a couple of photos on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/prof ... ef=profile
I'm going to put some more on this weekend.
As to the woodwork, I have put three coats of high closs epifanes and three of rubbed effect epifanes. It looks really good and I'm almost ready to put it back on. The hull had been epoxied with a rough coat so I'm sanding it down with a random orbital sander. I have a side grinder sander but it cuts too fast for me to keep from digging into the gelcoat.
Keep us informed on how the progress is going. You'll really love the Typhoon if you haven't owned one before.

Bob B
SV "Liberty"

[stollie]

Thanks for the input, fellas.

Mark, unless something magical happens, no sails, motor, or mount are available with the boat.

BTW, when I inquired about a ballpark asking price, the yard's owner said about 1500 clams. Going by the pictures, does this seem like a reasonable number?

[Troy Scott]

Go for it. But expect to do a LOT of work. We'll be happy to provide long-distance encouragement!

[stollie]

I plan to scrape down the hull and bring her back up with a dark green bottom, with gold bootstripe, so is this the logical place to start, or the deck where rain is currently able to work it's way into the cabin and do further damage? Of course, this is after a thorough initial cleaning.

[Dick Villamil]

I think that you will have a do-able project boat. It is in a lot better condition than the one I brought back from the brink. Your photos are excellent. Looks like a lot of the water entering the bilge is actually from the leak around the rudder post - where the teak block is cracked. Water in the cockpit sits there from snow melt and ise prevented the water from draining through the scuppers. Replace coskpit drain valves, look for wet core around the scuppers (probably is wet) and the mast dhould come down so you can rebed the mast step. It looks like there may be a wet core there as well but you won't be able to tell until you remove the 6" long mast stepo biolts. As for the rudder - looks OK - just asand around the bronze fitting the rudder post sits in and rebed with epoxy. Get the water out of the bilge asap - prevent any freezing. Drain water from the deck. Since she is not sitting on the cradle so as to allow water to drain bothe from the cockpit and from both sides of the deck you may need to drill scupper holes in the toe rail (or clean the existing ones) to allow water to drain of fthe deck. I removed, re[paired, sanded and then added 4 coats of Cetol-Light (I hate using varnish beceuse of the future maintenance). Just touch up the cetol two times a year and the maintenance is minimal. You will want dpreader boots, and check the standing rigging - if no meathooks of rigging stay with them until you gain experience. Then gradually replace the standing rigging and turnbuckles with the open type. I would remove all hardware and rebed. This gives you a chance to see if there are any soft spots in the vicinioty of the screw/bolt holes. The Ty looks very nice - you will have fun restoring her and then sailing her. A very solid small boat. I can't believe that you actually have the cushions but niot the mtotr mount and sails. Perhaps the PO still has them in his/her garage and would be willing to part with them for a nominal fee. Offer $1000 cash for the boat and see what happens. You have about $1500 of work to do (sails, motor mount will run $1000 and the remaining $500 is for materials (sweat equity is not expensed because it is "FUN").

[stollie]

Thanks, Dick, and the rest of you guys. That was very specific and detailed advice, which I plan to follow to the letter. Many of my questions were anticipated in your last posts, Dick! Wow, then WOW!

I'm going for it this weekend, so I'll send out the hounds to look for the yard's owner as he's a hard guy to find, nice I'm told but sometimes hard to find. Hopefully he's there tomorrow.

I can see that, with the help of this board, this project will be much easier. I'm sending in my membership check this weekend.