Please ID this item in Typhoon's bilge

[stollie]

Hello,
There's a 3-4" square (opening?) when you stand in the cockpit and look directly down into the cabin...please let me know what this is, and it's purpose?
Thanks

[RIKanaka]

It's an opening through the cabin floor into the actual bilge through which you can insert a hose to pump it out. It's usually covered by an appropriately sized piece of wood.

[stollie]

Thanks for replying, Bob.

Yes, it is covered by a piece of wood. It's also covered with a few inches of water that's been sitting there for an unknown period of time. This is a boat that I'm possibly going to buy in the Spring. Can the water in the cabin get down in that bilge area and cause damage, especially with winter freezes? Any suggestions about what I should do/look for, as a potential buyer?

Thanks again,
Noel

[Nancy Martin]

There is also an 'eye' in this hole which was used when installing the keel. Do not use to lift the boat...we have heard of an owner who thought it was a "lifting ring". It is not.

[mgphl52]

Thanks for replying, Bob.

Yes, it is covered by a piece of wood. It's also covered with a few inches of water that's been sitting there for an unknown period of time. This is a boat that I'm possibly going to buy in the Spring. Can the water in the cabin get down in that bilge area and cause damage, especially with winter freezes? Any suggestions about what I should do/look for, as a potential buyer?

Thanks again,
Noel

It sounds to me like the bilge is ALREADY full of water... hence the water over the cover. I seem to recall that both of my Tys had a finger-hole in the wood block for lifting it out. I would definitely want to pump her dry and look for possible leaks somewhere, if she's in the water. If on the hard/trailer still pump her out and try to keep her dry as much as you can.

-michael

[stollie]

Thanks for all the replies.

The boat is on the hard, and being that she's not (yet) mine, I'm not able to take care of her.

I'm wondering what damage can be done down there by a few years of sitting water. Also, I had read that in order to get out all the water, one has to drill up into the keel for it to drain. Is this what I would need to do when the time comes?

Thanks again.

[clownfish]

try a wet vac. Drill a hole in the keel?!

[Bob B]

A handheld pump leading to the cockpit also works. You may need one for the boat anyway although Typhoons typically are pretty dry. You can pull the locker covers at the bow end of the cabin and look into the bilge also.

[stollie]

Am I right in surmising that the whole purpose of a bilge is to collect stray liquids, and that the compartment would be built such that prolonged sitting water is not likely to cause irreparable damage?

[Troy Scott]

Hello Stollie,

What really matters is whether the water has remained over a winter. If the bilge water is deep and and has been through a freeze/thaw cycle, it is possible there is significant damage.

The first thing to do is get the boat as dry as possible. Pump out the bilge, leave the cover(s) off, ventilate.

A few Cape Dorys have had "incomplete" seals around and over the lead in the keel, and water has entered the space. Sometimes this water causes a problem, sometimes not. Buy a moisture meter, or find someone who already has one. Look for water cavities in the keel, and also look for wet spots in the hull laminate. While you're at it, look for wet balsa core in the deck, especially around where fasteners have penetrated the deck.

All this should take place BEFORE you buy the boat. A few hundred dollars spent at this stage can save you a lot more money (and time) later. If the owner is unwilling to let you and a qualified inspector thoroughly check out the boat, just walk away.

[stollie]

Thanks Troy,
I take it that the moisture meter will find water in those cavities if it's there. Then what?

[Troy Scott]

stollie,

If there is water in cavities, you can drill small holes into those areas from the outside to remove it. Then fill the spaces with epoxy resin. Use a little at a time if any large areas are found, because large amounts of epoxy kicking off can get really hot. It's NOT likely that you're going to find very much if any, but it's possible, especially just forward of the rudder where it's difficult for the builder to really get it filled well.

If you find moisture in the hull laminate, there would probably also be blisters. This is a common problem. The blisters would need to be properly repaired. There's tons of information out there on that subject, but it's not really a big deal.

It is likely you'll find at least a little moisture in the balsa cored deck. If it's just a little here and there, it could be easily addressed, but it shouldn't be put off. If there is a LOT of widespread moisture in the core, it can still be fixed, but you'd be buying into a big headache.

Look for structural problems below the deck-stepped mast. There is a "bridge" structure that transfers the compression loads out to the sides. This sometimes sags over time. Some folks have added a post to support the deck. If the rig has never been too tight this may not be an issue.

Make sure the outboard motor mount is included. This is a nice Spartan rig, but it's easily lost.

Good luck!

[mgphl52]

Make sure the outboard motor mount is included. This is a nice Spartan rig, but it's easily lost.

And, expensive to replace! I was "somewhat" fortunate enough that when a 9-month old outboard was stolen from my last Typhoon, they left the bracket...

-michael

[stollie]

Would blisters in the hull laminate and wet core in the deck be easy for a novice like myself to find? I would need to systematically percussion sound the boat, listening for dull feedback, correct?

[Troy Scott]

Weeellll....,
The sounding business is OK. But I really would use a moisture meter. Blisters have a tendency to shrink, sometimes to the point of being hard to see if the boat has been out of the water for a while. But the meter will probably still find them. If there are blisters, and if they aren't extensive, they are not a show stopper. And you can fix them yourself. My brother's 27' boat had EXTENSIVE blisters and he fixed them all.

WRT the deck, wet balsa will stay wet practically forever. Often this moisture is quite evident. The deck might feel "squishy". You may even hear the water mushing about as you walk. But often it's just a little and the deck will seem OK. But you still need to use a moisture meter and find out for sure. If there is extensive wet balsa, it's a difficult repair. Not so expensive if you do it yourself, but very time-consuming. On the other hand, if there are just a few wet areas you can drill a grid of small holes, let it dry, fill the holes, paint the area and be on your way.

Almost any older boat will have some issues. That's what makes them affordable. A guy (or girl) who doesn't mind doing some fix-up can end up with a "good as new" boat. That's what I'm doing. My 1988 CD36 wasn't in bad shape, but everything needed attention, and now she's in a thousand pieces. Fortunately I have a good place to work. That's good, because when she's launched, hopefully in about a year, she will have required most of my weekends for about four years. I did have three or four areas of wet balsa, one fairly large, but I fixed it all. I had no blisters in the hull, but I did have to fill (re-glass) some "extra" holes. I found a few voids in the structure low in the keel, especially near the lower rudder fittings. I have filled those, and I'm now in the middle of re-doing the glass that fairs into the gudgeon/pintle. These are just a few of MANY tasks, but I've mentioned them because they are common to most Cape Dorys, and you may get into some of this.

This board if a good source of advice. You're doing the right thing by getting some input here before buying.

The Typhoon is a beautiful design. Anybody with a heart loves them.