recently acquired CD 10, need info please
Moderator: Jim Walsh
recently acquired CD 10, need info please
We are owners of a Seaward Eagle 34 and have recently bought a CD 10 to use as a tender or just for fun. Can anyone help identify the manufactor's year with a hull number of 810? It's in pretty good shape with a new sail and usable trailor. We are mostly lake sailors but will be taking this boat to the Pamlico Sound for a test run next week. I'd also be interested in anyone sharing their experiences, info etc.
-
barfwinkle
- Posts: 2169
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 10:34
- Location: S/V Rhapsody CD25D
Doing some math
they only made 2260 of the 10s and they were manufactured from 64-83 so I counted 20 years at about 115 a year so roughly a '71 or so.
Does that math work probably not as I am sure there were slow years and higher production years, buy maybe close.
Fair Winds
Does that math work probably not as I am sure there were slow years and higher production years, buy maybe close.
Fair Winds
Bill Member #250.
-
John Laton
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Nov 13th, '06, 12:43
- Location: CD10
this site is interesting...
Regarding the CD10's sailing characteristics I found this site.
Value wise, I would leave these gems 'as is' but the site is interesting reading.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/08/howto/mods/
I have #1109 and was told it was mid/later 60's.. With 7' spoon oars/leathers it rows like a dream... no engine needed ! I have only tried the sail rig once in some gusty conditions and quickly stashed the rig back in the garage.
That said when I was looking for mine I found them advertised as mid 60's with numbers slightly lower than mine as well as mid/late 70's with much lower numbers.. in researching them I read somewhere that they stopped production for a time and then began again with a slightly different building method. Based on those 2 assumptions perhaps the numbering restarted in the second production run ? Also I have seen 2 very distinct builders plates which may also attest to this.
If you PM me I'll attach a pic of my builders plate if that would help.
Regardless of the year or number you have a tender that will no doubt serve you well.. you may even drop the hook out a bit further in the anchorage just so you can have more time in her!
John
Value wise, I would leave these gems 'as is' but the site is interesting reading.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/08/howto/mods/
I have #1109 and was told it was mid/later 60's.. With 7' spoon oars/leathers it rows like a dream... no engine needed ! I have only tried the sail rig once in some gusty conditions and quickly stashed the rig back in the garage.
That said when I was looking for mine I found them advertised as mid 60's with numbers slightly lower than mine as well as mid/late 70's with much lower numbers.. in researching them I read somewhere that they stopped production for a time and then began again with a slightly different building method. Based on those 2 assumptions perhaps the numbering restarted in the second production run ? Also I have seen 2 very distinct builders plates which may also attest to this.
If you PM me I'll attach a pic of my builders plate if that would help.
Regardless of the year or number you have a tender that will no doubt serve you well.. you may even drop the hook out a bit further in the anchorage just so you can have more time in her!
John
-
Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
I have hull number 63. I have always assumed it was an early 60's boat. It has a brass, rectangular, Cape Dory, builder's plate.
I would never modify little Feather to the extent of the guy on the Duckworks site. I do understand his motivation, especially moving the rowing seat forward. I hope I never end up sleeping in my dinghy for whatever the reason might be. If it ever comes to that comfort might not be that big an issue.
I did make some modifications to Feather.
She has that nice pricey gunnel guard all around so she can bump at will.
I made riser blocks for under the oar locks to make rowing easier with no rub on the rail. This was a problem, even with the 7&1/2 Ft Shaw and Tenneys. I can get a nice bite of water now and am less likely to catch on the recovery stroke.
I added a second towing eye with larger backing plates for both.
Extra cleats for various reasons.
This winter I would love to make up duck boards and a canvas cover. A partial canvas cover in the bow might be nice to keep things dry when it it choppy.
They are wonderful little boats that naturally go with a CD mother ship, Steve.
I would never modify little Feather to the extent of the guy on the Duckworks site. I do understand his motivation, especially moving the rowing seat forward. I hope I never end up sleeping in my dinghy for whatever the reason might be. If it ever comes to that comfort might not be that big an issue.
I did make some modifications to Feather.
She has that nice pricey gunnel guard all around so she can bump at will.
I made riser blocks for under the oar locks to make rowing easier with no rub on the rail. This was a problem, even with the 7&1/2 Ft Shaw and Tenneys. I can get a nice bite of water now and am less likely to catch on the recovery stroke.
I added a second towing eye with larger backing plates for both.
Extra cleats for various reasons.
This winter I would love to make up duck boards and a canvas cover. A partial canvas cover in the bow might be nice to keep things dry when it it choppy.
They are wonderful little boats that naturally go with a CD mother ship, Steve.