CD 27 Repower Conversation

[gvanbell]

Hello everyone!

We're making progress on our still unnamed 27, but the big projects are looming, and it is looking like the next BIG job is getting the old Yanmar out and a new power plant in. Good times.

First step, out with the old. As always, I'm looking for advice, and input before I get the wrenches out.

Then comes the bigger question. I've read all of the old threads I could find here about the topic, and would love it if anyone who has done a repower or is in the process of repowering could chime in on engine choice, process, cost, etc.

We are leaning toward a new Betamarine engine at the moment and we're meeting with our local dealer soon to get some details.

So...no specific question here...just looking for some conversation on the topic.

Thanks! And don't forget to check out our blog!

http://capedory27.blogspot.com

-g

[Loren]

Hi,
I repowered my CD27 in 1998. The old single cylinder Yanmar came out without too much problem. I used the mainsheet supported by the boom(with extra support from the main and jib halyards) to lift the engine out.
I installed a Yanmar 2GM20 (no longer made).

Good luck,
Loren

[Andy Denmark]

Hi, Gvanbell,

I'm in the finishing stages of a repower with a Betamarine 14 replacing a Westerbeke 13 in a Cape Dory 27.

I'll be posting some pictures soon so keep your eyes open here.

Andy
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Cbf600

[gvanbell]

Andy,

Thanks. I can't wait to see pictures. I've been talking with my local BetaMarine shop this week and have been impressed with their product and their service so far.

I am interested in how your install goes: quirks, problems, etc.

-g

[Dick Barthel]

Hi Gavnbell:

Bill Chapple repowered with the Betamarine (Kabota) in his 27 at the same time I put one in my 25D. Our yard was an authorized dealer and our mechanic one of the best in our area. As I remember he had to do a bit more modification to the 27 than he did with the 25D. He also fabricated a new water muffler. You might look up Bill's information and give him a call. I know he is delighted with his new engine which he's been using for two seasons now. He can also let you know exactly what prop to go with. I think he might have made an adjustment after the first season.

I love the engine also. It has an oil pump to make speedy work of oil changes. I ended up with a bigger prop then Bill since the 25D is a few thousand pounds lighter. I guess that makes the engine work a little harder to get it into the right rpm ranges.

Dick

[Andy Denmark]

Hi Dick,

I'm definitely ineterested in knowing actual prop specs. Beta suggests a 12 X 9 three-bladed for the CD-27 with the Beta 14 engine (and that's what I currently have on hand) but I think that this pitch is not quite aggressive enough. I'm just going by my seat-of-the-pants WAG, though. If your friend has actual numbers based on real life experience I'd like to know soon as the boat is scheduled to splash the end of next week.

Thanks much,

Andy
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Stobart Vk M-Sport Ford Rally Team

[Andy Denmark]

Here are pix of 2 of the 4 engine compartment panels. Next time you see these they will be installed in the boat and the details will be self-explanatory. These are both 3rd iteration starting with a carboard templates, then plywood prototypes, then this final version. Lots of features here that won't be apparent until these are assembled to the boat.

Andy



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Buy Roor Bongs

[Dick Barthel]

Hi Dick,

I'm definitely ineterested in knowing actual prop specs. Beta suggests a 12 X 9 three-bladed for the CD-27 with the Beta 14 engine (and that's what I currently have on hand) but I think that this pitch is not quite aggressive enough. I'm just going by my seat-of-the-pants WAG, though. If your friend has actual numbers based on real life experience I'd like to know soon as the boat is scheduled to splash the end of next week.

Thanks much,

Andy

I'm not sure how to get a hold of Bill but I'll call our mechanic. He will probably know.

Dick

[Ray Garcia]

Talk about anticipation. Wow, I can't wait to see the pics. I am really looking forward to this! Alot of us 27 owners are probably going to drool at your install. Fellas, I'll let you know how it goes when I try to sell the wife, with the pictures, why we should upgrade to the Beta.

This could be my last post.

[Andy Denmark]

All,

Project goes forward slowly. Panels shown are far from complete but the ideas seem to work so far. These panels are semi-installed with some epoxy mush jobs tomorrow for mounting blocks, hose & wire hangers, etc. None of the detail work is done, that to come later.

Rain has cleared out but heat returns tomorrow afternoon (88 forecast) so work will take place in the early a.m. Snowbirds here at the house so I need to wear the social hat for awhile.

The Beta distributor used my boat to prototype the engine mounts for the drop-in W-13 conversion. The aluminum blocks you see on my boat won't be on the final version when replacing a W-13 with the Beta 14. Mounts, shaft, throttle/shift linkages will all line up out of the box. With the W-13 to Beta 14 repower the biggest hurdle is the waterlock as the riser and injection elbow must be modified (easy to do), and some longer primary wiring (which probably needs upgrading anyway).

More next time there's significant progress ............

Don't sell your wife --- do like I did and cash in what's left of your retirement funds before they are worth nothing. Then you'll have a boat to escape with to the islands when the depression hits.

Andy





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Cloudy Trichomes

[Bill Chapple]

My prop is the recommended 12 x 9. It works very well; the currents run strong in Fishers Island Sound but I have had no trouble, the Beta Marine runs like a charm. Drew, the mechanic in our yard, put in new beds (?) to mount the engine on. Two problems, the wet exhaust is on the starboard side of the engine and makes it difficult to service the seacock of the starboard cockpit drain. We put in a primary filter for the fuel on the port side and that requires a bit of sqirming around to get at it. Those are the only problems that have cropped up.

[Andy Denmark]

Thanks, Bill,

I've tried to engineer this thing so the cockpit scupper seacocks are acccessible from the cockpit lockers. Think I solved the exhaust problem, too. Wait for more pictures as it's too hard to explain. Modifying the high-rise injection elbow seemd the only practical way to do this. It will all show up in the pictures later.

Glad to have the prop specs. One less problem to take on.

Thanks again,

Andy
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Cub F

[Kurt]

Andy,
I also turn a 12x9 propellor. I tried going a little more aggressive with the pitch for one season...but the engine wouldn't run up to it's recommended 3500-3600 WOT. I'm now in my 6th season (200 total hours) with the BZ482 and it's never skipped a beat.
Kurt

[Andy Denmark]

Forgive the delay in posting this and for being logged on forever. Trying to learn Linux is interesting and sometimes perplexing but I think the end result will be worth the effort.

The attached pix are self-explanatory but if you have any questions I'll try to answer them. Post here if the topic is of general interest and PM me if it's specific to your situation.



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MUSTANG SVT COBRA

[Steve Laume]

Andy, your entire boat is most impressive but an enclosed engine compartment seems to be a first on a Cape Dory.

I have considered doing this on Raven. At the present time you couldn't really call where my engine sits, a compartment. It just sits in the boat, exposed to the cockpit lockers and to the interior through the galley cabinet. The noise, smell and heat of the engine are free to move throughout the boat.

Most disturbing is the fact that if you were to open the cabinet under the galley sink and stick your hand in there you could easily lose fingers in the alternator belt.

I did use the multi layered sound deadening material on the inside of the engine cover which helped a great deal. I don't think you can expect too much until the engine is actually isolated in a compartment of it's own.

I also mounted a bilge blower back under the cockpit connected to the exit cowl vent. It works great but I hate the noise. It sounds like you are standing over a vacuum cleaner. The engine noise is far less abrasive. Therefore it usually only gets run towards the end of a trip and for a short period after shutting down the engine. It definitely helps to exhaust the heat and odors the engine produces.

When you did this it looks like you are completely enclosing the engine. Do you plan to run the exhaust fan continuously whenever the engine is running? If so is that fan tied into the ignition or is it on a separate switch? A separate would allow some air movement before starting, then continuously, while running and for a cool down period after shutting down. It would also allow you to forget to turn it on at all.

Do you plan to seal around the awkward areas, such as wire runs and especially the cockpit drains which don't seem to know weather they are in the engine compartment or not?

Having a pressure water system creates a nightmare in the engine compartment with a filter, valve manifold, pressure pump and lots of lines. I would love to move it all out of there but have no idea where it would go.

Will all the plywood panels get tabbed into the hull? Do I see expanding foam in the scope of this project? Are you planning to use a dripless shaft seal?

I am pulling Raven's engine this winter and now would be the time to take on a complete engine enclosure, Steve.