CD 27 Coaming Replacement

[jneely]

I am soon going to have to have the coamings on my CD27 Troika replaced and I have a question as to how they are fastened to the boat. Specifically, how are the forward ends attached to the side of the cabin and is it necessary to cut a hole in the cabin liner to gain access to the point at which they are attached? The present coamings are fastened to the deck with screws. Is this the original construction method?

[Duncan]

...how are the forward ends attached to the side of the cabin and is it necessary to cut a hole in the cabin liner to gain access to the point at which they are attached?

No. You will see a pair of teak backing pieces mounted at an angle, on the inside of the cabin top. I believe that if you remove the plugs from these you will be able to unscrew the forward ends of the coamings.

...The present coamings are fastened to the deck with screws. Is this the original construction method?

I believe so, since that's the way mine are attached.

I'd be very interested how this goes, since I am trying to decide whether to remove mine for refinishing.

(I think that removing is the "right way" to refinish, except that I have heard that sometimes the sealing/bedding compounds can make the removal a real pain).

Good luck, any updates/photos of the process would be greatly appreciated.

[Ron M.]

Once you remove the fasteners, sheet metal screws outside-long machine screws thu the cabin house, the combing will come off easily. When re installing consider machine screws, fender washers, and nylocs. I replaced my combing and fastened them back using this method with success. Some are difficult to get at .........but you can do it !
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WEED VAPORIZER

[Jeff D]

I have removed the coamings on two different CD's. The ease of removal depends on the sealant/adhesive used. On my current Typhoon I believe that the coamings were originally installed with 5200. After a full day of effort with putty knives, Antibiond, hack saw blades etc. I ended up with a pair of badly mangled templates from which I fabricated new coamings. I would suggest that you go slowly starting at the aft end. If the seal can't be easily broken go to plan B - stripping in place.

[Mike Raehl]

A few years ago, I removed my CD27 coaming boards and stripped / refinished them in the basement over the winter. No great difficulty removing them and much easier to finish at home.

To remove the wood plugs over each screw (including the four inside the cabin), drill a small hole in the center of the plug, turn in a dry wall screw, then use a pliers to pull the screw head and the plug should come out with the dry wall screw. Expect ragged edges around a few holes. New plugs will be needed to re-install the boards. Use varnish/Cetol to "glue" the plugs in place so they will be easier to pull the next time.

My boards lost some of their bend over the winter so I weighted them for a couple weeks just prior to installation to get them close to their original shape.

[bobc]

...Expect ragged edges around a few holes. New plugs will be needed to re-install the boards. Use varnish/Cetol to "glue" the plugs in place so they will be easier to pull the next time.

A much simpler and faster way to remove bungs that avoids this problem is to use an ice-pick. Start slightly off-center and drive the ice-pick down towards the center. Do this again from another point just to the other side of center from the first point. This will crack the bung, leaving a wedge-shaped piece that can easily be removed. Then use the ice-pick to shift the remaining half-circular pieces towards the center and they'll simply fall out, leaving the edges nice and clean.

After you use varnish to reinstall the bung, use a sharp chisel to level it. Cut with the grain. Take one or two cuts a bit high to make sure that grain is also rising in elevation with the cut direction. Otherwise you might end up with the top of the bung slightly below level. Obviously, if the first whack indicates that the grain is going down, then simply take another cut the other direction. Done right, you should end up with a finish that requires very little sanding.