Frozen Seacocks (not again!)

Warren Kaplan · Post by **Warren Kaplan** » Apr 3rd, '00, 19:01

A couple of my seacocks on the CD27 are frozen open. Of course they are the ones leading from the cockpit scuppers. WD40 and "ARMSTRONG" haven't been able to get the cylinder to budge even though I got the nuts off. I wonder if the "handle" attached to the seacock is strong enough to take some additional leverage. What I want to try I "tested out" on a flat tire this week. I couldn't get a few of the lug nuts loosened with the lug wrench. So a took a hollow pipe and placed it over the end of the lug wrench thereby extending the "lever arm" of the thing. The lug nuts opened with very little effort. I'd like to try and place a length of pip over the handle on the valve cylinder but I'm afraid I might snap it off. What do you think. Is the handle sturdy enought to take the extra leverage??
Warren
"Sine Qua Non"

Setsail728@aol.com

Edd · Post by **Edd** » Apr 3rd, '00, 19:12

Warren Kaplan wrote: A couple of my seacocks on the CD27 are frozen open. Of course they are the ones leading from the cockpit scuppers. WD40 and "ARMSTRONG" haven't been able to get the cylinder to budge even though I got the nuts off. I wonder if the "handle" attached to the seacock is strong enough to take some additional leverage. What I want to try I "tested out" on a flat tire this week. I couldn't get a few of the lug nuts loosened with the lug wrench. So a took a hollow pipe and placed it over the end of the lug wrench thereby extending the "lever arm" of the thing. The lug nuts opened with very little effort. I'd like to try and place a length of pip over the handle on the valve cylinder but I'm afraid I might snap it off. What do you think. Is the handle sturdy enought to take the extra leverage??
Warren
"Sine Qua Non"

Mine Bent....Spent Two Days on One... Bent like a wet noodle...Spartan Failed here....Good luck.

Erogers711@AOL.com

Keith · Post by **Keith** » Apr 3rd, '00, 19:21

Warren Kaplan wrote: A couple of my seacocks on the CD27 are frozen open. Of course they are the ones leading from the cockpit scuppers. WD40 and "ARMSTRONG" haven't been able to get the cylinder to budge even though I got the nuts off. I wonder if the "handle" attached to the seacock is strong enough to take some additional leverage. What I want to try I "tested out" on a flat tire this week. I couldn't get a few of the lug nuts loosened with the lug wrench. So a took a hollow pipe and placed it over the end of the lug wrench thereby extending the "lever arm" of the thing. The lug nuts opened with very little effort. I'd like to try and place a length of pip over the handle on the valve cylinder but I'm afraid I might snap it off. What do you think. Is the handle sturdy enought to take the extra leverage??
Warren
"Sine Qua Non"

Why not service the seacocks per the owner's manual? Only a lock nut and main nut to be removed, then the seacock shaft should slide out the opposite side of the housing. THen clean and lubricate with waterproof grease and reassemble. If it is in too tight a little pecking with small hammer and block of wood after removal of the two nuts should suffice for loosening it to come out the opposite side.

kwoodlaw@arkansas.net

M. R. Bober · Post by **M. R. Bober** » Apr 3rd, '00, 21:34

***Preventive Maintenance Admonishment Here***

Before I would tempt fate with the extended lever, I would try putting the lock nut back on the threads. Put the nut--only use one nut--on LOOSE so that it extends beyond the threads that you don't want to damage. If you can remove the drain screws and get some WD40 or Liquid Wrench, do (let it work for a day). If not, don't. Place a block of wood against the nut and rap the block smartly with a mallet. Do not try to drive the plug into outer space. Just try to "break the seal."
Tough location those lockers are deep.
Good luck.
Mitchell Bober
RESPITE
CD330

thebobers@erols.com

Warren Kaplan · Post by **Warren Kaplan** » Apr 4th, '00, 06:44

M. R. Bober wrote: ***Preventive Maintenance Admonishment Here***

Before I would tempt fate with the extended lever, I would try putting the lock nut back on the threads. Put the nut--only use one nut--on LOOSE so that it extends beyond the threads that you don't want to damage. If you can remove the drain screws and get some WD40 or Liquid Wrench, do (let it work for a day). If not, don't. Place a block of wood against the nut and rap the block smartly with a mallet. Do not try to drive the plug into outer space. Just try to "break the seal."
Tough location those lockers are deep.
Good luck.
Mitchell Bober
RESPITE
CD330

Thanks for all the advice. I think my hollow pipe lever arm will stay in my car trunk for the next flat tire. I've sprayed WD40 and I hope it will start to loosen everything up. I'll try to leave the nut over the ends of the threads and try a block of wood and a mallet. Thanks again for the advice!
Warren
"Sine Qua Non"
CD27 #166

Setsail728@aol.com

Larry DeMers · Post by **Larry DeMers** » Apr 4th, '00, 06:50

Nope, Spartan *did not* fail here. The person responsible for the maintenance on your boat failed to keep that seacock lubricated as the manual and common sense says.

That handle is plenty strong for normal operations, and even supranormal operations..but you were trying to dislodge the frozen barrel with the handle and if that barrel was -lets say *permanently* welded to the seacock body, your operating that handle is actually trying to pry the seacock out of the boat. Something is going to break, right? So if a 1 sq. ft. area of the boats hull came up with that seacock, it would be Cape Dory's fault for not building their laminate schedule to high enough a standard?! hee

The responsibility for maintenance lies with the owner. If you choose to ignore maintenance, and something fails, how can that be the vendors fault?

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

Edd wrote: Mine Bent....Spent Two Days on One... Bent like a wet noodle...Spartan Failed here....Good luck.

demers@sgi.com

steve files · Post by **steve files** » Apr 4th, '00, 10:59

I have the same problem on my 82 CD which I inherited from the previous owner. I'm planning to work on the problem this spring.

One idea is to stop the bottom of the thru hull so that fluid can't drip out and fill the scupper with a penitrating oil ( give a little prayer) and try it in a few days.
Some of the responses have splanked the owners for poor maintainance, but it seems that positive suggestions would be of more help. All and all tappered sea cocks work but in their old age are a little finiky.

Good luck to you and if you get them working let me know what worked.

Steve

neastsail@aol.com

Chris Holme · Post by **Chris Holme** » Apr 5th, '00, 13:23

We got a CD 28 (76) at the end of last season with all the seacocks frozen in the open position!!!
One freed up when I loosened the lock nuts. I managed to open 2 more yesterday. Starting a few weeks ago I sprayed each end and the drain plugs with PB Blaster (which many consider superior to WD 40), let it sit for a couple of days, reapplied, and gently tapped on the lock nut - all to no avail.
Yesterday after going through the same routine I applied some heat (a minute or so with a micro torch) and after a few taps it came free. The same routine worked on both seacocks.
I was extremely careful not to overheat and kept the flame ONLY on the base surrounding the valve. After freeing I cleaned the valve surfaces w/ PBBlaster, greased the cone and worked it a few times in position, wiped off all the grease, regreased and reassembled.
Hope this helps. You can be sure that I will be paying attention to seacock maintenance in the future.
Chris

chris@annapolis.net

Keith · Post by **Keith** » Apr 6th, '00, 15:34

Larry DeMers wrote: Nope, Spartan *did not* fail here. The person responsible for the maintenance on your boat failed to keep that seacock lubricated as the manual and common sense says.

That handle is plenty strong for normal operations, and even supranormal operations..but you were trying to dislodge the frozen barrel with the handle and if that barrel was -lets say *permanently* welded to the seacock body, your operating that handle is actually trying to pry the seacock out of the boat. Something is going to break, right? So if a 1 sq. ft. area of the boats hull came up with that seacock, it would be Cape Dory's fault for not building their laminate schedule to high enough a standard?! hee

The responsibility for maintenance lies with the owner. If you choose to ignore maintenance, and something fails, how can that be the vendors fault?

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

Edd wrote: Mine Bent....Spent Two Days on One... Bent like a wet noodle...Spartan Failed here....Good luck.

I have found that diesel fuel is the best liquid for loosening tightly fitting metals. Works better than WD-40.

kwoodlaw@arkansas.net

Mike Thompson · Post by **Mike Thompson** » Apr 6th, '00, 22:42

Last weekend I did the seacocks on my CD28. They were both frozen.
(This despite annual maintenence and excercising them every two
weeks during the season).

I tried lots of WD40 and lots tapping with a mallet and hitting
with a hammer with wood to cushion the blow. All to no avail.
Next I resorted to hitting the threaded end with a hammer,
parallel to the axis of the cylinder.
The sharpness of the impact caused the cylinder to come free
immediately. However as I expected the thread was damaged
so the nuts would not go on again.
I 'repaired' the damaged thread with a small file.

The solution (for next year) is to free the cylinders at the
END of the season before they have time to corrode. Hope I
remember to do this.
Mike
CD28 "Haven"

Warren Kaplan wrote: A couple of my seacocks on the CD27 are frozen open. Of course they are the ones leading from the cockpit scuppers. WD40 and "ARMSTRONG" haven't been able to get the cylinder to budge even though I got the

etc etc

Warren Kaplan wrote: Warren
"Sine Qua Non"

tmike@ma.ultranet.com

Don S. · Post by **Don S.** » Apr 7th, '00, 15:53

Next time, if there is a next time, back the nut almost all the way off and hit the nut. The pressure will be distributed across the threads and you're much less likely to harm them.

The voice of experience
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove

Mike Thompson wrote: Last weekend I did the seacocks on my CD28. They were both frozen.
(This despite annual maintenence and excercising them every two
weeks during the season).

I tried lots of WD40 and lots tapping with a mallet and hitting
with a hammer with wood to cushion the blow. All to no avail.
Next I resorted to hitting the threaded end with a hammer,
parallel to the axis of the cylinder.
The sharpness of the impact caused the cylinder to come free
immediately. However as I expected the thread was damaged
so the nuts would not go on again.
I 'repaired' the damaged thread with a small file.

The solution (for next year) is to free the cylinders at the
END of the season before they have time to corrode. Hope I
remember to do this.
Mike
CD28 "Haven"

Warren Kaplan wrote: A couple of my seacocks on the CD27 are frozen open. Of course they are the ones leading from the cockpit scuppers. WD40 and "ARMSTRONG" haven't been able to get the cylinder to budge even though I got the
etc etc
Warren Kaplan wrote: Warren
"Sine Qua Non"

don@cliggott.com

Don S. · Post by **Don S.** » Apr 7th, '00, 15:55

Next time, if there is a next time, back the nut almost all the way off and place a hardwood block between the nut and the hammer.The pressure will be distributed across the threads and you're much less likely to harm them.

The voice of experience
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove

Mike Thompson wrote: Last weekend I did the seacocks on my CD28. They were both frozen.
(This despite annual maintenence and excercising them every two
weeks during the season).

I tried lots of WD40 and lots tapping with a mallet and hitting
with a hammer with wood to cushion the blow. All to no avail.
Next I resorted to hitting the threaded end with a hammer,
parallel to the axis of the cylinder.
The sharpness of the impact caused the cylinder to come free
immediately. However as I expected the thread was damaged
so the nuts would not go on again.
I 'repaired' the damaged thread with a small file.

The solution (for next year) is to free the cylinders at the
END of the season before they have time to corrode. Hope I
remember to do this.
Mike
CD28 "Haven"

Warren Kaplan wrote: A couple of my seacocks on the CD27 are frozen open. Of course they are the ones leading from the cockpit scuppers. WD40 and "ARMSTRONG" haven't been able to get the cylinder to budge even though I got the
etc etc
Warren Kaplan wrote: Warren
"Sine Qua Non"

don@cliggott.com

Mike Thompson · Post by **Mike Thompson** » Apr 10th, '00, 21:47

The point I am making is that I tried your idea but it did
not work which is why I hit the bare metal with the hammer!

Also there are only a few inches of space to swing the hammer.
Mike
CD28 Haven

Don S. wrote: Next time, if there is a next time, back the nut almost all the way off and hit the nut. The pressure will be distributed across the threads and you're much less likely to harm them.

The voice of experience
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove

Mike Thompson wrote: Last weekend I did the seacocks on my CD28. They were both frozen.
(This despite annual maintenence and excercising them every two
weeks during the season).

I tried lots of WD40 and lots tapping with a mallet and hitting
with a hammer with wood to cushion the blow. All to no avail.
Next I resorted to hitting the threaded end with a hammer,
parallel to the axis of the cylinder.
The sharpness of the impact caused the cylinder to come free
immediately. However as I expected the thread was damaged
so the nuts would not go on again.
I 'repaired' the damaged thread with a small file.

The solution (for next year) is to free the cylinders at the
END of the season before they have time to corrode. Hope I
remember to do this.
Mike
CD28 "Haven"

Warren Kaplan wrote: A couple of my seacocks on the CD27 are frozen open. Of course they are the ones leading from the cockpit scuppers. WD40 and "ARMSTRONG" haven't been able to get the cylinder to budge even though I got the
etc etc
Warren Kaplan wrote: Warren
"Sine Qua Non"

tmike@ma.ultranet.com

Don S. · Post by **Don S.** » Apr 11th, '00, 08:04

That IS a problem. I solved it by using a heavier hammer, a small 3lb. sledge. The weight makes up for the lack of swing.

Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~

Mike Thompson wrote: The point I am making is that I tried your idea but it did
not work which is why I hit the bare metal with the hammer!

Also there are only a few inches of space to swing the hammer.
Mike>

ime, if there is a next time, back the nut almost all the way off and hit the nut. The pressure will be distributed across the threads and you're much less likely to harm them.

Mike Thompson wrote:
Don S. wrote: The voice of experience
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove

Don S. wrote:
Mike Thompson wrote: Last weekend I did the seacocks on my CD28. They were both frozen.
(This despite annual maintenence and excercising them every two
weeks during the season).

I tried lots of WD40 and lots tapping with a mallet and hitting
with a hammer with wood to cushion the blow. All to no avail.
Next I resorted to hitting the threaded end with a hammer,
parallel to the axis of the cylinder.
The sharpness of the impact caused the cylinder to come free
immediately. However as I expected the thread was damaged
so the nuts would not go on again.
I 'repaired' the damaged thread with a small file.

The solution (for next year) is to free the cylinders at the
END of the season before they have time to corrode. Hope I
remember to do this.
Mike
CD28 "Haven"
etc etc

don@cliggott.com

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