Prop Shaft Removal

[Duncan Maio]

Does anyone have any tips for removing the shaft from the flange on a Yanmar YSB 8? I am replacing the stuffing box hose on my CD27 this weekend, and anticipate some trouble getting the shaft out.

The shaft was out three years ago (for a cutless bearing replacement), but I didn't do the work myself. I am familiar with the trick of pressing the shaft out by placing shims at the end of the shaft (between the flanges) and retightening the flange bolts, and will try that first.

Any other tricks?

Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37



dmaio@meganet.net

[chuck yahrling]

Does anyone have any tips for removing the shaft from the flange on a Yanmar YSB 8? I am replacing the stuffing box hose on my CD27 this weekend, and anticipate some trouble getting the shaft out.

The shaft was out three years ago (for a cutless bearing replacement), but I didn't do the work myself. I am familiar with the trick of pressing the shaft out by placing shims at the end of the shaft (between the flanges) and retightening the flange bolts,

and will try that first.

I think you mean the same basic thing, but what I did was to put a regular length (not deepwell) socket roughly 1 1/2" long, centered on the shaft end between the two flanges. Then I used long bolts to pull the flanges together. That allows you to get the shaft flange off in one or two iterations of bolt tightening.

I had to pull them tight, then separate and use a longer socket on the second iteration before the flange popped off. When assembling I used the copper-based never-sieze goop over the splines. You can get that at NAPA or any auto store.

I replaced the setscrews too. The setscrews with holes in them are hard to find. I couldn't, so on advice from the machine shop, I didn't worry about safety wiring. They're still tight after consuming three full tanks of diesel last summer.

Last but not least, I put a stripe of white plastic tape over the coupling so I can easily see from the cabin if the prop is lined up with the keel. But I haven't'seen any measurable difference and have abandoned the practice except for long passages.

Any other tricks?

Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37

cyahrlin@cisco.com

[Tom C.]

Does anyone have any tips for removing the shaft from the flange on a Yanmar YSB 8? I am replacing the stuffing box hose on my CD27 this weekend, and anticipate some trouble getting the shaft out.

The shaft was out three years ago (for a cutless bearing replacement), but I didn't do the work myself. I am familiar with the trick of pressing the shaft out by placing shims at the end of the shaft (between the flanges) and retightening the flange bolts, and will try that first.

Any other tricks?

Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37

Chuck has it right and after only 3 years you probably won't have any problem. One word of caution though. I have known people to break off one flange ear trying to force a shaft out. Try to keep the pressure equal on all the ears as you tighten and there finally is a point beyond which you don't want to go. I finally had to saw my shaft because I was afraid to put any more force on the flange.



TomCambria@mindspring.com

[Scott Ritchey]

I need to do the same job on my '27 (#159) which is equipped with a YSM8-R (which is probably almost the same engine).

How about reinstalling the flange on the shaft during reassembly? Will this just slip right back after it's cleaned up or is there some trick or method?



ritcheyvs@aol.com

[Tom C.]

I need to do the same job on my '27 (#159) which is equipped with a YSM8-R (which is probably almost the same engine).

How about reinstalling the flange on the shaft during reassembly? Will this just slip right back after it's cleaned up or is there some trick or method?

They slide right back on after they're cleaned up. If they don't it's easy to clean some more until they do, but generally they slide right in. It's the torquing against the keyway and the corrosion and rust that makes them hard to come out.



TomCambria@mindspring.com

[Scott Ritchey]

I need to replace the stuffing box hose on my CD 27 (#159) which is equipped with a YSM8-R (which is probably almost the same engine)with a 1 inch prop shaft.

I can't easily measure the size (ID) for the required replacement hose with the boat in the water. The hose fully covers the stern tube and the "hose seat" portion of the stuffing box. I'd I'd like to have the replacement hose on hand before I have the boat pulled.

Does anyone know the correct size for the stuffing box for a 1982 CD 27?



ritcheyvs@aol.com

[Duncan Maio]

Scott:

The hose is 1 1/2" on my 1977 CD27, which also has the 1" shaft. I found relatively inexpensive shaft log hose at Southern Crown Boatworks in Atlanta 800-746-3857 - about $7, as opposed to $12 from Spartan.

I installed the new hose and Dripless Packing this weekend. Relatively painless, if you can say that about an activity that is carried out entirely within the port cockpit locker, head down. My only mistakes were not replacing the key in the flange (the old one was a little bent and scored, and made reinstallation a little difficult) and using too much of the green stuff in the packing kit, so that I had to remove and repack everything to get the stuffing box back together. It appears that one of the four supplied sticks of stuff is more than enough. I have some left, if anyone wants it (but I used most of the Syntef blue goo that comes in the kit).

I bought a set of 10mm x 75mm bolts and two nuts for each bolt, so that I could press the shaft out of the flange without retightening the bolts twice - this worked very well.

Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37



dmaio@meganet.net