Teaqua oil, pigment and sealer
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Teaqua oil, pigment and sealer
Has anyone heard of and used this product for their brightwork? Go to
http://www.teaqua.com/
if you are unfamiliar with it. I have used it and it is a little darker than for my tastes. Goes on real easy and clean up is easy. Does it lighten up? How long does it last? Were you happy with its appearance and performance? What is your experience?
http://www.teaqua.com/
if you are unfamiliar with it. I have used it and it is a little darker than for my tastes. Goes on real easy and clean up is easy. Does it lighten up? How long does it last? Were you happy with its appearance and performance? What is your experience?
- mahalocd36
- Posts: 591
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:51
- Location: 1990 CD36 Mahalo #163
- Contact:
See previous threads on this, search the board.
We'll be taking what's left of it off next season and trying something else. Doesn't wear well, gets dark and splotchy, doesn't last long.
On the plus side, it was easy to apply.
We'll be taking what's left of it off next season and trying something else. Doesn't wear well, gets dark and splotchy, doesn't last long.
On the plus side, it was easy to apply.
Melissa Abato
www.sailmahalo.com
www.sailmahalo.com
I'm still using it.
I use it on the perimeter teak (sprit, fantail, toerail and rubrail). I use Cetol natural teak/gloss for everything else. I find I have to strip the Teaqua each spring, but it comes off very easily with a 1 part teak cleaner and fine bronze wool and it is very easy to reapply. I also find it retains a decent appearance (sort of halfway between teak oil and Cetol) for a full New England season. When it comes to the perimeter teak, I just don't have the time to deal with anything that requires more than one coat.
-
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 22:01
- Location: Cape Dory 27
I'm with Stan, except that I use it on everything. I barely have time to get the boat ready to go in the water, and nothing I have found beats Teaqua for easy prep, easy application, and easy cleanup. It's also the most forgiving if you miss a season of maintenance.
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
- Joe CD MS 300
- Posts: 995
- Joined: Jul 5th, '05, 16:18
- Location: Cape Dory Motor Sailor 300 / "Quest" / Linekin Bay - Boothbay Harbor
Having tried it on several items, in addition to sanding and cleaning I'd use a wood bleaching product. Any grain areas that remain grey tend to look black after application with teaqua. Any of the wood that has a tan / brown look before application comes up well. It's often the grey area between the grains that sanding often does not reach that can be a problem.
Its not perfect but ithas its uses.
Its not perfect but ithas its uses.
Better to find humility before humility finds you.
Good with the Semco teak sealer
If you are looking for something different, you could try the Semco teak sealer. It looks a bit "painty" up close, but if you are going for a 30 foot job not a 3 foot job, it is excellent. Goes on easily, dries fast, cleans up easily, and looks nice. IT comes in a bunch of different colors (I use the honey gold one, and it seems great). I usually do the whole boat (a typhoon) with 2 coats. ON a warm day I can finish in one day..
It does wear off relatively easily, and by the end of the season there may be some spots where it has broken down a bit, but it is easy enough to put on some more.
My dad used the clear (not pigmented) kind on his catalina.. it looks much more natural up close, but because it has no pigment I suspect it will wear out more easily.
It does wear off relatively easily, and by the end of the season there may be some spots where it has broken down a bit, but it is easy enough to put on some more.
My dad used the clear (not pigmented) kind on his catalina.. it looks much more natural up close, but because it has no pigment I suspect it will wear out more easily.