Hello,
I got a great deal on a Schaefer Snap Furl 500 roller furler. The mfg says it's good for boats up to 24 ft, but in my way of thinking, there are certaily 24 ft boat with as tall a mast as on the CD25, and as large a genoa.
So, does anyone out there use this furler on a CD25? I do need to purchase a foil, so I'd appreciate a little advice before doing so. I'll also have to put tape on my foresails.
Thanks muchly,
Norm Vandal
Roxbury, VT
Schaefer Snap Furl 500 for CD25?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Emil Maurer
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Feb 9th, '05, 01:30
- Location: CD 25D
Snap Furl 500
I have a CD 25D with a Snap Furl 500. I sail on the south shore of Long Island in the ocean out of Jones Beach Inlet.
It works very well furling and reefing. Compared to other furlers it appeared small to me and I had concerns about its durability and reliability. I have had no trouble with it. It has held up well four or five seasons so far?
I had some problems initially with the furling line fouling but switching to a low stretch line with more stiffness solved the problem. I also added a small ratchet block to the rear pulpit which made for better body mechanics when hauling on the line as you can face aft with the hatch bulkhead behind you. This improved the line handling when sailing solo when waves were up.
Though they are pricey I opted for the Schaffer line rollers which go outboard on the stanchions as they hold the line up and out of the walkway with good separation from the jib sheets.
I have a small cleat mounted on the cockpit coaming to tie off the line. A cam cleat might be an improvement.
Keep a couple of spare Bow Schackles 93-01 on hand and safety wire the 3/16"pin. This attaches the tack of the sail to the top of the furling drum. You will want to run line through the shackle and grommet to attach the sail and and allow you to fudge the fill space. (Keep the head of the jib all the way up, as high as you can get it, to avoid halyard chafe and wrap entanglements.)
Fair winds and all that good stuff.
It works very well furling and reefing. Compared to other furlers it appeared small to me and I had concerns about its durability and reliability. I have had no trouble with it. It has held up well four or five seasons so far?
I had some problems initially with the furling line fouling but switching to a low stretch line with more stiffness solved the problem. I also added a small ratchet block to the rear pulpit which made for better body mechanics when hauling on the line as you can face aft with the hatch bulkhead behind you. This improved the line handling when sailing solo when waves were up.
Though they are pricey I opted for the Schaffer line rollers which go outboard on the stanchions as they hold the line up and out of the walkway with good separation from the jib sheets.
I have a small cleat mounted on the cockpit coaming to tie off the line. A cam cleat might be an improvement.
Keep a couple of spare Bow Schackles 93-01 on hand and safety wire the 3/16"pin. This attaches the tack of the sail to the top of the furling drum. You will want to run line through the shackle and grommet to attach the sail and and allow you to fudge the fill space. (Keep the head of the jib all the way up, as high as you can get it, to avoid halyard chafe and wrap entanglements.)
Fair winds and all that good stuff.
Emil Maurer
Snapfurl 500
Emil,
Thanks for the resonse. I suspected it would work. Your advice about rigging makes sense. Have you even sewn on your own luff tape?
Norm Vandal
Thanks for the resonse. I suspected it would work. Your advice about rigging makes sense. Have you even sewn on your own luff tape?
Norm Vandal
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Emil Maurer
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Feb 9th, '05, 01:30
- Location: CD 25D
Sewing Luff Tape
Negative. I have not sewn luff tape myself. Barely buttons!
I had a 150 Jib and the sail maker converted it for the furler adding the luff tape.
(I use Jim Richel at Sailor's Choice in Amityville, Long Island, NY)
The way the edging fits into the extrusion strikes me as very precise.
The stress involved as a jib flogs in the wind while being retrieved strikes me as heavy duty though the stress is spread over the whole length of the luff.
I have no experience on a sewing machine.
Therefore my inner image of a sail tearing or ripping loose and blowing merrily away over white capped waters is quite persuasive. A good quality new sail is an expensive high tech item. With my inexperience,
I would be loathe to experiment on such a thing.
At the end of the season it is my practice to take sails to the sailmaker and have them washed, examined and repaired so that they are in good shape for the following season. I usually include the sail cover which also gets a fresh water repellant application.
I figure that money well spent.
I had a 150 Jib and the sail maker converted it for the furler adding the luff tape.
(I use Jim Richel at Sailor's Choice in Amityville, Long Island, NY)
The way the edging fits into the extrusion strikes me as very precise.
The stress involved as a jib flogs in the wind while being retrieved strikes me as heavy duty though the stress is spread over the whole length of the luff.
I have no experience on a sewing machine.
Therefore my inner image of a sail tearing or ripping loose and blowing merrily away over white capped waters is quite persuasive. A good quality new sail is an expensive high tech item. With my inexperience,
I would be loathe to experiment on such a thing.
At the end of the season it is my practice to take sails to the sailmaker and have them washed, examined and repaired so that they are in good shape for the following season. I usually include the sail cover which also gets a fresh water repellant application.
I figure that money well spent.
Emil Maurer