Typhoon Leaks

[jim ventrilio]

Can anyone give me a hint about topside leaks on a Typhoon. Boat is currently on a trailer uncovered. After a hard or prolonged rain, I need to pump out the bilge. I suspect the cockpit lockers may be the prime candidate, but where were your leaks and how did you fix them?

Thanks for any ideas/help you can offer.

JimV

[Sea Hunt]

I assume it is a Ty Weekender with scuppers port and starboard in the forward cockpit area. If these are clogged/blocked, etc. water sits in the cockpit and will drain into the bilge via the rudder/tiller shaft/tube assembly in the aft end of the cockpit. This was my problem. Once I replaced the scupper hoses, and caulked around the teak plate and rudder shaft rod at the base, problem solved.

Bilge is now bone dry 24/7 or as bone dry as any bilge can be in South Florida's humidity.

I did not have a problem with cockpit lockers allowing water intrusion.

There is a specific thread on the issue of sea scuppers, cockpit drains, etc. from around May/June 2008. It was possibly started by me when I had this problem. Several people posted with great suggestions. If you research the archives I am sure you will find it.

I tried but, being the dummy I am , could not quickly find it. Sorry.

[Dick Villamil]

I concur about the rudder post block. My scuppers were tottally plugged when I salvaged the boat from the graveyard. Water filled the bilge but when I replaced the hoses and old gate valves then caulked the block to the cockpit sole all leaks stopped and even though I keep checking the bilge - there is never any water - problem solved! Also check (recaulk) chainplate bolts and main sheet tackle - possibly leaking points as well.

[KDreese]

I need to caulk the tiller base on my CD25 and was wondering what brand and product of caulk you used to seal it all up?

Also, when you sealed it did you remove the tiller base cover (4 screws, etc), caulk and then replace the cover, or did you just caulk around the edge/opening without removing the base cover?

[Dick Villamil]

I removed the teak that surrounds the rudder post where it passes through the cockpit sole. Then I cleaned both ethe teak and coskpit sole with a putty knife to remove residual caulking, ten wiped it with acetone to remove all oils. Boatlife Life caulk is what I used - smear some on the teak and some on the coskpit sole - wait a few minutes to let the surface start to seal then place the teak in position and tighten the screws until the caulk starts to bow out. After the calking has cured - about 6 hours, tighten teh screws again. If you tighten the screws immediately you squeeze the caulking out and the seasl isn't as good. Dress the squeezed caulk so it looks neat and you are done! While I had the teak out I also sanded it a bit and treated the external surfaces with 3 coats of Cetol Light. This is a tough piece to clean regularly so the Cetol keeps it looking pretty good with a yearly touchup.

[Sea Hunt]

I also used Boatlife Caulk. It is durable but not permanent. You want to be able to remove this stuff. I do not recommend using 3 M 5200. Too permanent.