Is it heresy if I paint the formica?

[Queen Elvis]

I spent yesterday cleaning my new CD 28 (hull # 35), and the boat is gleaming. The previous owners must have taken care of her meticulously, because even after 2 years on the hard, all she needed inside was a little Simple Green with a splash of bleach. Fresh as a rose.......

The real wood trim below is lovely (Is it teak? I'm not an expert on recognizing wood) , and it will probably receive a light sanding and oiling soon. But the Formica just doesn't do it for me. Call me a wood snob, but it looks like what it is - faux wood plastic product, the Cheese Wizz of wood.!

What are my choices here? Am I committing a crime to even consider covering some or all of the Formica with something? Will I be excommunicating myself from the Cape Dory enthusiasts (whom I respect immensely, by the way).

I've considered painting it - but with what type of paint?

What about applying a wood veneer over some of it? Is that practical? Would I need to remove the Formica or just rough-up the surface before applying the adhesive? I'm fearful that the adhevise won't hold up in the marine environment.

Should I oil my teak below? Or bite the bullet and varnish it? Are there other treatments I should consider?

Thanks, as always.

Malcolm
Queen Elvis CD 25 #261 and now
Queen Elvis Too CD 28 #35

[Cathy Monaghan]

I'm with you. I hate "wood look" formica and I'm glad that the formica on our CD32 is white.

I've never painted formica but if you don't already have the instructions for refinishing formica surfaces, here are a few online resources:

http://www.wikihow.com/Paint-Formica-Countertops

http://www.ehow.com/how_4485686_paint-f ... rtops.html

http://www.answerbag.com/q_view/46711

[Jim Davis]

Malcom

I'll side with you, a good paint job would look a lot better than phony wood. On the teak trim below, I'm partial to a polyurethane varnish. Its easy to maintain and won't collect fibers from your sweater.

As a side note my wife is restoring a 25 and painting her formica.

[Angela and Tom]

I've painted both wood and plastic paneling, cabinets, a formica counter top, linoleum floors and even bathroom tile with great results.

The key is prepping and priming the surface to achieve a good, strong bond of the paint to the substrate. A combination of light sanding, Wil-Bond, and a really good bonding primer is the key. (You're supposed to be able to skip sanding with Wil-Bond, but I always do anyway--except on tile.) With a finish coat of a tough, high quality paint, the jobs have held up beautifully over the years.

Here's my method:
1.) For laminates--clean with soap (or spic & span) and water for grime (plus bleach if there's a mold issue). Then a solvent for oils.
2.) Rinse well & let it dry thoroughly.
3.) Give the entire surface a light, even scuffing with sandpaper. Dust with a clean lint free rag. You can also use a tack cloth
4.) Wipe down entire surface with Wil-Bond following the instructions on the can.
5.) Prime with a good bonding primer. Kyanize bonding primer is fabulous. I've also heard that Benjamin Moore makes a good one.
6.) Finish with a coat or two of a good quality alkyd paint.

Kyanize brand has great finish coat paint as well a bonding primer, but I've also recently discovered Benjamin Moore Porch & Floor urethane reinforced interior/exterior Alkyd Enamel. Seems to be durable and good looking. Both companies make a self-leveling Melamine paint that I've heard good things about. Both have more of a semi-gloss or gloss sheen. You may want to look for something with lower lustre, depending what you're using it for. Pearl or eggshell finishes are great for walls.

I like alkyd (oil based) paint in damp areas for its hard enamel surface and mold resistance. Be aware that you can use alkyd over latex but not vice versa. If you use alkyd, you have to make sure you only use alkyd over it in the future. This link has good instructions for working with alkyd paint:

http://www.wikihow.com/Know-when-to-Use ... d-of-Latex

I would also suggest testing (all the steps) in a small inconspicuous area, or on a test board of similar material, before committing to the whole thing.

Hope this helps. Whatever method you decide on, I think painting your fake plastic wood is a great idea! Good luck.

A

[Boyd]

By the time you go to all the trouble to paint the mica you could simply put new mica over the old. I am not suggesting the bogus wood grain stuff, but a light solid color. There are literly hundreds to choose from. The surfaces in my boat, such as the ceilings, counters, engine enclosure, head walls, etc. that are not teak are Formica 932 ( thats from memory, if you want I can verify). This lightens up the interior dramatically and provides a very good contrast to the teak.

Not only will you probably save time and effort but you will have a truly durable surface that will last for decades.

Use vertical grade with a matte finish. First its cheaper and secondly can be cut with scissors or equal if you dont have mica tools. If you need to make a two way fit, make a pattern from thin card board. If its a surface with a trim edges then just remove them and make new edgings.

Surface prep consists of degreasing and sanding with 60 grit. Make sure you have plenty of ventillation as the contact cement fumes are pretty bad.

Boyd
s/v Tern
CD 30 MkII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

[Ben Thomas]

<a href="http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp14 ... .jpg"><img width="600" src="http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp14 ... 0.jpg"></a>

Installing new laminate is not that difficult, mine was a mess with various scars, scratches and discoloration. I replaced all countertops, cabin top sides, pull down table, cabinet faces (galley) , stove recess and engine hatch cover. Makes a world of difference. No longer feels like a dark cave. Colors are easy to match up. Find the best possible contact cement though, nothing more frustrating than it not working the first time. Water base (less odor) 3M contact adhessive 30-NF is what I found to be the best to work with.

<a href="http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp14 ... .jpg"><img width="600" src="http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp14 ... 4.jpg"></a>

<a href="http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp14 ... .jpg"><img width="600" src="http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp14 ... 3.jpg"></a>

I also found a great stoage area behind the pull drawers in head area. access is from counter top hatch. with 1/4" baltic birch divider behind drawers that slides attach to. Slides were shortend to fit .

I hope these photos are not bigger than they are supposed to be, not sure how to check size.
Best of luck

[Queen Elvis]

Ben - your CD30 looks awesome, and you're inspiring me.

I'm taking all of your suggestions to heart, everyone, and I thank you so much. It seems like no one feels that it's inappropriate to cover the 'original' Formica, one way of another, and so I shall.
Whether I will paint or laminate I don't know yet.

My current thinking is to also veneer just the panels on the doors to add some contrast. I might also add wood to the cabin sole, so expect a post on that sometime soon!

Malcom

[Keith Newlin]

You might also apply veneer over the laminate. I veneered my cabin with paper-backed teak veneer--can cut with sharp scissors and glue with contact cement. I then varnished it. Here is the result:

<a href="http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww23 ... .jpg"><img width="600" src="http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww23 ... 3.jpg"></a>

[Oswego John]

Keith,

You did a beautiful job. The veneer has a very nice grain and shade to it. I'm looking for a veneer like that and would like to know where you bought it?

O J

[Keith Newlin]

OJ:
I meant to include the source when I posted, but I was operating away from my desk. Source:
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com

The key is to make an accurate pattern, which I did with heavy craft paper, and then rehearse the glueing sequence since contact cement grabs instantly. One tip: if you misapply or form a bubble, a dry iron, with craft paper between iron and veneer, will relax the cement and enable you to make minor shifts.

[Boyd]

Ben, Keith, I am impressed. Fantastic job of sprucing up your boats.


Boyd
s/v Tern
CD30 MkII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

[Oswego John]

Ben,

I'm such a clod for not including you, too, in doing a beautiful job. Great workmanship.

Sorry,
O J

[Paul D.]

Ben,

Just curious, and I bet This old boat covers this topic, but you said "replaced" your formica. Did you apply new laminate over the old or dry iron heat/scrape off the old laminate tops, clean the surface and apply the new laminate? If you removed the tops, how did you do it?

For our nav table with its scratched surface, I thought I would either build a solid wood varnished top complete with compass rose inlay or simply renew the laminate. Hmmmmmm.

Thanks,
Paul

[Ben Thomas]

Paul, I used a heat gun and scraper to remove the veneer on the engine hatch and the cabin sides On the counter tops and faces it was easier just to clean and score the surface and I applied the laminate over the old. Ice box lids I removed the old laminate. I did cut out some of the laminate on the counter tops where water had penetrated between and under cabinet and counter top. You can see the water damage in the photo behind the sink and under the companion way. It looked as though there never was any chaulking in place. When I reinstalled the laminate I milled out new teak trim to cover the damage. New fiddles around sink. Also used Git Rot applied to bad areas. Faired out damaged plywood with epoxy before the laminate.
[img]http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp14 ... ate003.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp14 ... ate005.jpg[/img]

Applied chaulking around all countertop perimeters then set the trim down into the chaulking, snugged and screwed in place.
I used blue tape on countertop & trim at trim line so when I ran my finger along joint to round out the chaulk I got a nice crisp line when I pulled the tape.
Ben