Cockpit Floor Question

[shavdog]

I'm getting my nonskid ready for a repaint and as usual per cape dory, I have a couple spider cracks and one thats about 1/32 inch open on the cockpit floor..I understand this is a common problem in cape dory sailboats...after washing the boat today, I noticed when I stood over the one larger crack there was very little amount of water oozing from the crack...the floor feels solid to me...a few days ago I put some captn trolly crack repair in this crack but it must not of helped...other than cutting out the floor skin, is there something I can put on or in before I apply the nonskid..I need to let this area dry out before doing anything but would like to seal that up if possible...If I took my dremel tool out and beveled the sides of the crack back so the bevel was about two inches wide and filled with marine tex(would some other epoxy filler be better and stronger adhesion for this repair like west system ?) do you think this would stay put....the floor does not feel soft to me...thanks..craig

[Roy J.]

If you are worried about water intrusion, you could very carefully drill a test hole in the area up from underneath by crawling into the locker. This will give you access to check the balsa core with a bent nail or other probe. If the balsa core is OK, you can inject some thickened epoxy, cover with tape or clear plastic wrap until cured. Could get a little messy down there, but you wouldn't have to drill into your cockpit floor. On the other hand, if you are about the re-paint the cockpit floor non-skid, then you could drill, test and fill from topside. Either way at some point you are going to paint. They make these very cool little nonskid pattern patches that you press into epoxy or gelcoat, so you could also repair the non-skid pattern from above as well. The key diagnoses is whether the core is wet and or delaminated.

[krebsie]

My guess is that you have a wet balsa core. Put your non skid on and go sailing. Then at the end of the season either drill holes in the cockpit floor and let it dry out, then inject thickened epoxy, or cut out top and recore.

[Markst95]

You probably do have some core wetness, rot but if you don't want to do a major fix now just carve out a v in the crack to widen it some and fill with marine tex and paint. The 12 to 1 bevel is only needed if you are cutting all the way through the fiberglass.

[moctrams]

Hate to say this, but, you may be wasting your time. I had the same problem with my CD30C's cockpit sole and various places on the deck. I had the fixes done in stages. I paid a $1000 to have the cockpit sole fixed and $7000 to have the deck done and other repairs. Being aware of the inherent Cape Dory deck problems, the surveyor found the problems and I adjusted the price with the owner. At least with your boat, you won't have to take out the steering.

[shavdog]

Thanks for the followup...with the boat in my driveway, its alot easier to work on rather than going to the marina each time so I can take my time with this....After sanding the floor, I found a couple two inch diameter holes in the surface that had filler in so some previous owner had some issues along the way....I may take my dremel and remove one of those patches because its loose already and see whats under there...I will make an attempt and v'ing out a couple cracks and cover with marine tex and see what happens after repainting with interlux interdeck...I have the time so its no big deal...when people say the original problem is a result of poor rudder shaft sealing exactly where and how does the water get in....I have a teak oval plate around the shaft...does the water run down? the shaft itself from the tiller handle when it rains?...thanks for your help..craig

[S/V Necessity]

Our cockpit floor was severely water logged (and yet still quite stiff and solid feeling for the most part) As far as I can tell the water came in through the screws holding down the teak plate. When it was installed it was simply screwed through the cockpit floor, and installed with some caulk of sorts. Well the caulk didn't keep the water out for ever.... Pulling that teak plate and over drilling the screw holes and filling them with epoxy is probably a good idea for anyone with a similar arrangement. (if the cockpit floor is in good shape of course)

[shavdog]

Yesterday here in Minnesota it was a balmy 50 degrees and sunny and no wind...After showing my wife my floor issues I brought out the heavy equipment...my dremel tool....I v'd out the cracks and dug out the areas they had previously fixed...I did have some dampness and could pressure out some water so its in there...I did a big time wash on the boat the other day so I don't really know if I did that or if it was there all winter...the boat was completly covered up all winter...anyway I used my heat gun to start some drying out and in a couple weeks I plan on covering with my marine tex and see what happens...my wife finished up sewing the sunbrella tiller cover and I had her make it big enough to cover the entire mounting bracket so no rain can enter the shaft area..I will also caulk that tube and around the base of the teak base...after sanding the floor again, I am going to resurface with interlux interdeck...I used this product on my typhoon and really liked the results...will any of this work...I don't know....I feel if I do nothing, it'll continue to get worse...at least there will be an attempt made and stopping the moisture intrusion..I'll keep you posted...craig