Replacement backstay for Typhoon

Brad Fuller · Post by **Brad Fuller** » Mar 29th, '09, 12:45

I have a 1973 Typhoon Weekender. The backstay has several kinks or bends in it and I'd like to replace it. Can anyone recommend a company where I can get a replacement. Is 1/8 x 27 feet the right size (1 x 19 wire)???

Thanks.

Jim Buck · Post by **Jim Buck** » Mar 29th, '09, 13:43

I replaced the stays and shrouds on one of my Tys a couple years ago. Rigging Only did a really nice job for a very reasonable price.

http://www.riggingonly.com/

Joe Montana · Post by **Joe Montana** » Mar 29th, '09, 17:33

Brad, yes, my manual says 1/8 x 27' for the weekender backstay (1/19 ss wire) -- then adds the helpful note, "all wire length are approximate"!

Markst95 · Post by **Markst95** » Mar 30th, '09, 00:15

Brad- keep us posted on who you use and how it turned out. I need to replace a stay in the near future as well.

John Martin · Post by **John Martin** » Mar 30th, '09, 11:22

If you have a West Marine store near you, they can send your back-stay to the West Marine Rigging Shop and they can make an exact duplicate.

I work for West Marine here in Atlanta. Over the years I have helped many customers with rigging issues. Everything that has come back from the WM Rigging Shop has been excellent workmanship and quality.

All of the parts you will need are in the current WM catalog pages 631, 632, 636, 637. Send me a PM and I will be happy to help if I can.

Dick Villamil · Post by **Dick Villamil** » Mar 31st, '09, 09:24

I had a similar problem with my Ty. I adjusted the backstay the way I normally sail it then removed the backstay and sent it to Rigging Only - I also wanted an Open Turnbuckle. They took the pigtail for the boom end and attached it to the new backstay, added the open turnbuckle and it fit perfectly. I have used them to graduually replace the standing rigging with 100% success. They also provided me with the CDI #1 roller furler with proper furling line size (although they recommended the #2, the #1 works fine for my 120 genny). They made up a new forestay for using the roller furler. I still have the old stays in case I ever wanted to use the hanked-on jib in the future. So far I haven't wanted to change!

Sea Hunt · Post by **Sea Hunt** » Mar 31st, '09, 09:49

Dick:

I have thought of converting to a furler (CDI, Harken or other). One of the issues I think I have is where to attach the furling line so that it comes off of the furler spool at the correct (90 degree

) angle. Most sailboats I have seen have a block attached to the lower portion of a stanchion so that there is the 90 degree angle for the line from the spool to the block and then aft to a cockpit cleat, etc.

S/V Tadpole does not have a bow pulpit or stanchions. I have been assuming I have to drill a hole into the deck and attach either a fairlead or a block. I am very, very reluctant to drill any more holes in S/V Tadpole - hull or deck.

How did you rig your CDI #1 to get the 90 degree angle - assuming the furling line needs a 90 degree angle

Somebody told me this. Don't remember who or when or where. I am so freaking dumb

Thanks.

Brad, I apology if I have temporary side tracked your thread. Sorry.

Dick Villamil · Post by **Dick Villamil** » Mar 31st, '09, 15:49

I also did not want to penetrate either the deck or rubrail to install a turning block for the roller furling line. Instead I attached a small block to the forestay tang aft of where the forestay is attached. I used a shackle long enough so as to achieve a fairlead then ran the furling line to the cleat on the cabin top (port side) that was previously used for the jib sheet. I also ran my main halyard to the starboard cleat so I can raise and lower the main from the cockpit. It may look funny but it sure makes ssiling Victoria a breeze! The furler works fine AND THERE ARE NO HOLES IN THE DECK! I used a smaller diameter line so it all fits on the drum and since I have a furling genny - I use the tracks on the gunwales. If anybody goes on the foredeck they just have to waztch out for the furling line. When in port, it is slack, when underway it is slack unless only partially unfurled - then it is taught. I had 5 full grown men on the boat last fall and nobody had a problem with the furling line - the biggest problem is that one of them forgot to bring the beer!

Sea Hunt · Post by **Sea Hunt** » Mar 31st, '09, 18:45

Hello Dick:

Thanks. Is "forestay tang" the correct term for the small bronze piece at the bow to which the forestay attaches

I have sort of done this with the "downhaul" I installed last year. It runs through a block at the bow and back to the cabin top cleat (port side). I had not thought of trying to do this with a furling line.

Thanks much

Dick Villamil · Post by **Dick Villamil** » Mar 31st, '09, 23:19

I am not entirely sure what the correct term is - but "forestay tang" sounded OK! I am not sure if the attachment would work for a CDI #2 but it certainly works for the #1. I just couldn't bear drilling two holes in the foredeck or into the toerail after I completely repainted it and replaced the rubrail and refinished all the teak. The setup seems to work fine. All I need to do now is to install a mast compression post - parts are on hand but the procrastination phase has taken over.

Amgine · Post by **Amgine** » Apr 1st, '09, 10:27

Stemhead fitting.

The Cape Dory Board

Replacement backstay for Typhoon

Replacement backstay for Typhoon

RE: Rigging Only

Ty Backstay

TY backstay and Roller Furler

Ty forestay