Cape Dory Typhoon Hull #1503

[KVickers]

I'm a new member to this board and I should first say that the level of experience and knowledge of the members here is amazing. I've read the last 50 or so pages of this forum and researched many others concerning various repairs and tactics, and I find it very refreshing to see the openness of those willing to give of their personal experiences (and there's some interesting characters here too). I may fit right in.

My last sailboat was a Hallberg P-28. With the escalating cost of slip rental, or the demands of self maintaining my own mooring, not to mention the frenzy of trying to find a safe "hole" to hide during the threat of hurricanes, I'm done with all that. So I started my "downsizing" research (Sea Hunt is scratching his head) and I found a lonely Typhoon on a trailer.

On several return visits to the boat, I've tapped all about with my little rubber hammer, and found no major faults in the hull or deck. I fully expected to find some voids on the deck just due to the general appearance of hardware attachments and the boat's exposure. I would like to restore her completely, but one recent post by Oswego John about storing a boat on a trailer rang an alarm. This particular boat has no sliding hatch cover and has been exposed to the weather for at least 2 years. It's quite possible that water has been standing in the bilge for the same period of time. Freezing water isn't an issue in my part of Florida, but I don't know what damage this can cause to fiberglass. Since I'm prepared to restore the boat otherwise, I'm reluctant to add the cost of a survey unless the interior standing water would be a potential deal breaker.

The boat will need the following:
1) All deck hardware removed and rebedded
2) Remove and possibly replace rubrails and toerails
3) Stress cracks in the cabin ground out, repaired and repainted
4) Deck and hull painting
5) New sliding hatch cover
There are other issues, but to me, these are the main ones.

I'm not as computer savvy as Oswego John, so I couldn't post the pictures I've taken right here in my text. Hopefully he'll explain it to me one day. I do, however, have a link posted below of the boat and some of the issues I've mentioned. I'd appreciate any advice you can offer.

http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt296/KVickers13855/

[sharkbait]

Go here to follow the epic of the Weekender that I have been working to rebuild.

http://76.162.31.52/bb/viewtopic.php?f= ... 048ba1eb58

Check the hull closely and look for blisters. The bilge is very shallow so just pump it out and see what you see. If the water setting in the bilge has penetrated the fiberglass you should have evidence of blisters on the exterior. That fracture would tend to indicate someone had sucked the rigging up a little to tight. Look for depression of the cabin where it joins the deck. It would not be the first weekender to which that has happened.

The bilge is very shallow so just pump it out and see what you see.

Don't pay to much for that weekender. You will have at least an additional two thousand into it before you get it back in the water.

Wish I had your bow rail.

P.S. I didn't see any spreaders on that mast.

[Duncan]

It's obviously not the best thing, to let a huge ice cube form in the bilge, but I wouldn't be too concerned.

I bought a full-keel boat that was in about the same condition a few years ago (Paceship Eastwind 25). The ice melted, I did some minor work, and I sailed her close to 500 miles to bring her home.

I think the ice just expands where it can, and that is upwards, so there isn't any pressure or damage.
As far as economics go, well, it's a boat, right? (So fuggedabout it making economic sense).

You may be better off with a boat that someone else has already spent money on, and done the work. On the other hand, saving slip fees and storage fees may work out more economically for you?

[KVickers]

I didn't see any evidence of blisters on the hull. In fact, below the water line is the best looking part of the boat. I'm tempted to leave the bottom alone, but there's a long unknown history of what's happened to the boat in the last 30 years. After a thorough cleaning, I'll make that choice.

The spreaders are lieing in the midst of the debri in the cockpit. I'll double check the edges of the cabin for any evidence of compression, but during my several inspections, I've not seen a problem. I guesstimated about the same amount for repairs Sharkbait. I thought about $1,500, but my wife who knows me better than myself said, "add another $500 for meticulousity's sake".

I think I can close the deal for about $1,500, so "if" that's true and "if" the trailer doesn't turn out to be a complete mess and "if" the main and jib are at least useable, it might work out alright.

[sealark]

I recently purchased a CD 28 (also in FL) that had been sitting on land for 26 years. She had about 18 inches of water, decomposition and gunk in the bilge. The teak and holly floor had rotted away into the mess. After cleaning out all the mess - the hull itself seems to be in pretty good shape. I really did not find any signs of damage to the fiberglass simply resulting from the water in the bilge.

Just a suggestion - I posted an ad on Craigslist to find someone to come out and check the decks without a full inspection (survey). I found a guy that came out - inspected the decks for water (with a meter) and sketched out on a diagram of the boat where he found it - all for $50. It was worth every penny.

For me - the satisfaction I recd from saving this boat is immeasurable. Four months ago - she was sitting behind someone's house - 2 weeks away from being cut up and sent to the scrap yard. Now she is sitting in my slip.

I had to hire an 80 ton crane to lift her 60 feet in the air over a house - haul her over land 250 miles - and work my butt off for the last 4 months - but it has all been worth it.

http://cid-6d6cedcec14f14f0.skydrive.li ... 0Dory%2028

I wouldn't change a thing.

Adding to what Duncan said - I don't know if it was on this site - but I read somewhere that a decision to restore a boat should never be based on finances or economics.

My wife takes whatever I say it will cost and doubles it as a general rule of thumb.

When it is all said and done - I will probably have more into my boat then I could have purchased a turnkey boat for. However - everything will be brand new and I will know her completely from inside to out. And no price can ever be put on my feeling of accomplishment.

[Dick Villamil]

Wow - she looks almost as bad as trhe one I bought for $500 then totally restored. Consider paying less than $1500 although the trailer is pretty nice - check out the wheel bearigs, see if the wheels can come off or if they are rusted to the wheel hubs. The compression crcks in the hull can be routed out with a dremel tool using a conical stone. Work down into the glass past the gelcoat then fill in with west epoxy, smooth and paint. I did that to every one of thise cracks and it will make the hull better. I think that they may be cause where the cabin liner contacts the hull on the inside - mast compression probably pushed the corners of the cabin liner into the hull. Remove all deck fittings, clean the boat and see if there is any wet balsa core - I did that and found that the desk fitings - specifiaclly the mainsheet block and cleat had been leaking. I also recommend removing the teak, sanding and recoating (I uses Cetol Light and am very happy with it. Make a nice wood cabin slidin hatch - the original was pretty flimsy. Are all the teak drop boards there? The nice thing about the Ty is that you can do all your own work and it isn't very expensive. Once you do he work you will be an old pro! Good luck - she is worth the wait to do it right because everyone will admire her.

[tartansailor]

There has always been an issue with Cape Dory Rudders falling off.
Look to see that there is no separation between the shaft and blade proper.

Dick

[KVickers]

All the drop boards are there, not pretty, but they're there at least. About all I can do on the trailer is visual. It has buddy bearings, but who knows if they're greased. I guess that's all a part of taking on a project like this. There's going to be good and bad in the process.

The rudder seems secure, but as well advised, a triple check will be in order. In the process of restoration and making a final decision on how far to go below the water line, it seems that it would be prudent to dismantle the rudder for a thorough inspection.

I'm meeting with the owner this Friday to try and finalize the deal and get my first look at the sails. Hopefully #1503 will get a new home.

[winthrop fisher]

when i got my typhoon back in the 80's it was flooded from bow to stern from passing storms and it turned out to be just fine...

i would tell you to get the boat, it should be fine...
winthrop

[KVickers]

Well, the short of it all is that #1503 has a new home. The tires all held air, but were visibly dry rotted. I packed all the bearings with grease and hoped for the best. Thankfully I had only about ten miles to get her home.

I made my final offer based on my inspection of the sails that I'd not yet seen. The jib was in tatters and the main wasn't much better. The PO called a couple of days after we'd closed the deal and she'd been moved and said he'd found a couple of things that might go with the boat. When he showed me "this old hunk of metal" he'd found and asked, "does this go on that old boat somewhere?" (a bronze Spartan motor bracket!), I was elated.....and then he pulls out a brand new sailbag with an untouched jib! Things are looking up!

.....and now to the cleaning! I'll research past threads before belaboring old topics about proceeding, but you will all be hearing from me again I'm sure.

Thanks so much to those that took the time to encourage and show me what they had accomplished in their restorations.

Ken

[sharkbait]

Great - Now the fun begins. Get a bilge pump with power leads about 15 feet long. Hook it up to a battery, put it in the bilge and turn on the power washer.