NO through hull depth sounder

[Ryan]

Does anyone have experience with the type of depth sounder transducer that is mounted with epoxy inside the hull? This is the "puck" type that shoots through the fiberglass. West Marine has said that it should be mounted while the boat is in the water and the depth known. Appearantly problems arise from voids in the fiberglass which confuse the reading. Therefore the proper way to mount it is when the boat is in the water and the depth known. The "puck is to be slightly moved around untill the readout matches the known depth. Then the transducer is left in that position while the epoxy hardens. I wonder about any problems with the epoxy mounting to fiberglass which will, inevitably, have some degree of moisture. Has anyone ever used one of these things?
Thanks,
Ryan
SV Sojourner
Chicago, IL



Digistill@aol.com

[Larry Austin]

I'd be interested in any comments on this subject as well.

Thanks
Larry
CD30 MKII
LAYLA



laustin@us.ibm.com

[Catherine Monaghan]

See the previous threads on this board titled "Depth Sounder Installation for CD-25" at:
<a href="http://www.toolworks.com/cgi-bin/tw/wwb ... cd&5642</a>

and "Depth Sounder-Interior 'puck' vs Through-hull" at:
<a href="http://www.toolworks.com/cgi-bin/tw/wwb ... cd&7113</a>

catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... lization's Home Page</a>

Does anyone have experience with the type of depth sounder transducer that is mounted with epoxy inside the hull? This is the "puck" type that shoots through the fiberglass. West Marine has said that it should be mounted while the boat is in the water and the depth known. Appearantly problems arise from voids in the fiberglass which confuse the reading. Therefore the proper way to mount it is when the boat is in the water and the depth known. The "puck is to be slightly moved around untill the readout matches the known depth. Then the transducer is left in that position while the epoxy hardens. I wonder about any problems with the epoxy mounting to fiberglass which will, inevitably, have some degree of moisture. Has anyone ever used one of these things?
Thanks,
Ryan
SV Sojourner
Chicago, IL

catherine_monaghan@merck.com

[Bill]

Does anyone have experience with the type of depth sounder transducer that is mounted with epoxy inside the hull? This is the "puck" type that shoots through the fiberglass. West Marine has said that it should be mounted while the boat is in the water and the depth known. Appearantly problems arise from voids in the fiberglass which confuse the reading. Therefore the proper way to mount it is when the boat is in the water and the depth known. The "puck is to be slightly moved around untill the readout matches the known depth. Then the transducer is left in that position while the epoxy hardens. I wonder about any problems with the epoxy mounting to fiberglass which will, inevitably, have some degree of moisture. Has anyone ever used one of these things?
Thanks,
Ryan
SV Sojourner
Chicago, IL

This fall I installed a horizon DS 45 (which has the same type of puck) in Rhapsody. FIRST and FOREMOST, I refused to epoxy the puck to the hull!!! Instead, I used Life Clauk and mounted a piece of 4" PVC to the hull and then filled it with water, placed the puck inside and capped it! it has worked flawlessly! As far as accuracy goes, it's close! Maybe not dead on but close! IMHO and FWIW, I WOULD NOT epoxy the puck. i think you will get plenty of support from others on this!

Good Luck
Bill



cd25d@rhapsodysails.com

[Bob]

I replaced my Datamarine bronze thru-hull transducer with a 'transon mount' transducer that was siliconed inside the hull. It was mounted on the port side, as far forward as possible, in the engine room of my CD 27. I would have prefered to mount it in the bow, but the cable wasn't long enough and I didn't want to add a splice in the bilge. It always worked great. The 'transon mount' transducer is low profile and about 2"x4". I did move it around a little to get the best reading.

Does anyone have experience with the type of depth sounder transducer that is mounted with epoxy inside the hull? This is the "puck" type that shoots through the fiberglass. West Marine has said that it should be mounted while the boat is in the water and the depth known. Appearantly problems arise from voids in the fiberglass which confuse the reading. Therefore the proper way to mount it is when the boat is in the water and the depth known. The "puck is to be slightly moved around untill the readout matches the known depth. Then the transducer is left in that position while the epoxy hardens. I wonder about any problems with the epoxy mounting to fiberglass which will, inevitably, have some degree of moisture. Has anyone ever used one of these things?
Thanks,
Ryan
SV Sojourner
Chicago, IL

bobmcreynolds@hotmail.com

[John R.]

Does anyone have experience with the type of depth sounder transducer that is mounted with epoxy inside the hull? This is the "puck" type that shoots through the fiberglass. West Marine has said that it should be mounted while the boat is in the water and the depth known. Appearantly problems arise from voids in the fiberglass which confuse the reading. Therefore the proper way to mount it is when the boat is in the water and the depth known. The "puck is to be slightly moved around untill the readout matches the known depth. Then the transducer is left in that position while the epoxy hardens. I wonder about any problems with the epoxy mounting to fiberglass which will, inevitably, have some degree of moisture. Has anyone ever used one of these things?
Thanks,
Ryan
SV Sojourner
Chicago, IL

Over the years I've installed a few with silicone. I've never used epoxy. One manufacturer told me a few years ago that the properties of silicone were ideal for a interior hull installation. The key of course is to be sure the hull is solid glass where you are going to mount the transducer. No cores or laminate voids.

Use a very liberal amount of silicone on the hull and on the transducer face and then place the transducer on the siliconed spot on the hull and turn it as you press down on it to expel any possible air pockets. Let it cure. Your readings should be accurate within a foot if done properly.

The other idea posted of installing inside the 4" diameter PVC tube section with water sounds interesting but is obviously more work to install.

[Jeff Schmoyer]

On a related topic, let's say that one does replace an aging through hull transducer with one mounted inside the hull.

Now, what's the "right" way to get rid of that hole? Can you just laminate in layers of glass and epoxy? Will that be as strong as the original hull?

Jeff



jeff. schmoyer@iff.com

[Bill Goldsmith]

Jeff,

From what I have read (I've never actually done it) eliminating the hole using epoxy lamination is as strong or possibly even stronger than the original construction. Gougeon Brothers, makers of West System epoxy, has several very readable pamphlets on boat repair and mantenance, one of which discusses how to fill a hole in a fiberglass hull. I'd recommend that pamphlet--it's only a couple of bucks and probably covers all you need to know (versus a $30 book). In addition, they have really helpful people on their tech line who can answer questions. I used West to barrier coat my 27, and I like the product. I had about 50 questions during the process, and Tom Pawlak on their help line patiently talked me through the whole process. Other manufacturers have similar products out as well.

Very basically, the process involves tapering (or beveling) the edges of the hole to the recommended ratio. Put a temporary backing/shaping block in place on the inside. Then, as you say, apply layers of epoxy-soaked mat cut according to instructions. Since you're below the waterline, you may choose not to apply gelcoat. Rather, you can use an epoxy mixture as a barrier coat, and you might even choose to barrier coat the whole hull while you're at it.

Best of luck.

Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #173
Second Chance:

On a related topic, let's say that one does replace an aging through hull transducer with one mounted inside the hull.

Now, what's the "right" way to get rid of that hole? Can you just laminate in layers of glass and epoxy? Will that be as strong as the original hull?

Jeff

goldy@bestweb.net