Stuffing Box Hose Replacement

[Captain Greg]

While preparing to replace a worn cutlass bearing on my 1984 CD 28, I discovered that the hose between the stuffing box and the shaft log was in need of replacement. I was surprised to discover that, on the aft end where the hose should have been clamped to the shaft log, it simply disappears into the fiberglass. When I removed the shaft log fitting, I found that the hose had been fiberglassed directly to the hull and the shaft log just shoved in the end. No clamps or anything! Has anyone else ran into this? I am at a bit of a loss on the best way to correct this and would appreciate any input.

[Anthony P. Jeske]

Hi Greg:
I replaced the stuffing box hose on my 1984 CD-28 a few years ago. The old hose had clamps on both ends. You'll need to use stainless flat band clamps that look like this: http://www.fastfittings.com/page/1127223
It takes a special (expensive) tool to install these clamps, you may need to have that done for you. I recall having to do a little grinding to make the new assembly fit. I used Life-Caulk to seal the shaft log, that worked just fine, I've not had seepage problems.
You'll probably need to realign the engine after.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske

[tradewinds780]

I am in the process of replacing the hose, clamps and cutlass bearing on my CD 28 and am able to use ordinary high quality hose clamps. I do have the bronzes tube on the shaft log.

[johnny of STORK]

Greg -- When I replaced the hose on my CD-30, it looked like it just went into the fiberglass, but when I got right into it (had to pull the motor), the fill back there was very porous, and just surrounds the hose clamp. This was all a major PITA, but worth doing. I think the yard-workers just crammed left-over fiberglass scrap into the void near the dead-wood, and dumped resin in after it, covering the aft end of the hose in many cases. Kinda funky.....

Johnny

[Noel Heslop]

My Yanmar is just about to be pulled out specifically to check the hose and clamps, and very likely replace both.

I have been warned to only use marine grade fully SS hose clamps as a minimum. The other SS from automotive suppliers can have the bolt as mild steel. Very dangerous in the bottom of your boat.

Furthermore, when I get home I might have a solid type clamp or something, if it fits, which I am told is the very safest method.

I am currently holidaying in the US in NH, with my first mate. Therefore I acknowledge a fellow Classic Boatfest Toronto Australia enthusiast Graeme Morley for this info.

[rollo_cd26]

My boat is on the hard and I have been testing my restored diesel. Once I have inadvertently gotten the transmission in gear and rotated my propeller shaft. For a very short time there was shrieking and howling from rotating the shaft. I took it out of gear pronto. Since I just replaced my stuffing box packing, I was wondering how to test the results of the job. I think my 1988 CD26D has the same arrangement for the stuffing box hose as mentioned here. How can the integrity of this set up be tested out of the water? Is there a way to test the true of the prop shaft on the boat?

[Sea Hunt Video]

Hello Rollo:

What engine do you have in your Cape Dory 26D I have a 1982 Yanmar 1GM in my new-to-me Cape Dory 25D.

I know a little about outboard motors, etc., and running fresh water through them while on the hard but I know nothing about diesel engines.

How are you able to run your diesel while on the hard I am assuming you have a way to connect a fresh water hose to a raw water intake on the diesel engine.

Can you explain the details of this. Please remember, I am "dumber than dirt" so your explanation needs to be simple

Thanks in advance

[tradewinds780]

Take the water intake hose, to the strainer, off the thru hull fitting and run it into a bucket of fresh water. Have a water hose replenishing the water in the bucket that the engine takes out.

It works with the engine in neutral but I don't know how you get water thru the cutlass bearing to test it when in gear

It really helps to have a valve on the end of the hose so you can control the amount of water in the bucket, as the engines sucks up a lot more water when you rev it up. I just stick mine in the cabin and any accidental overflow goes into the bilge.

[rollo_cd26]

I have the notorious Westerbeke 10-two diesel engine that is small and difficult to deal with. The raw water intake hose has an installed plastic "T" down stream of the strainer housing where I can attach the female end of a garden hose. I note that the "T" fitting cap has the word "Prestone" on it. That should give you a clue as to where you can get one. A low flow of water is more than enough tho cool your engine at idle. This can be a very convenient way to test the engine while on the hard.

Be careful, too much water is a bad thing going to your raw water pump, heat exchanger, and wet muffler. Do not, I repeat, do not, leave the hose connected to the fitting after running the engine. It is possible for the engine to siphon water from a bucket into the raw water circuit during cool down. While you are completely unaware, this can overfill the wet muffler to the point of flooding your engine (crankcase) through the exhaust valves!!! Don't ask how I know this to be true, it just is.

[Ron M.]

Rollo,
you need to get water to the cutlass bearing to run it in gear or it will howl as you found out. I'm not sure how to do that but it should be doable. My boat has a PYS shaft seal,(instead of a stuffing box) that has a vent - a 1/4" tube running vertical to the waterline thru the engine compartment. This easily allows one to enter some water to the bearing and run the transmission.
As for the engine intake, I have a rubber toilet plunger head with a hose fitting I made up. The plunger head is attached to a telescoping handle. I jamb the handle between the ground and the plunger head over the intake thru hull, turn on the water and run the engine - it doesn't take much flow.

[Ron M.]

Rollo,
you need to get water to the cutlass bearing to run it in gear or it will howl as you found out. I'm not sure how to do that but it should be doable. My boat has a PYS shaft seal,(instead of a stuffing box) that has a vent - a 1/4" tube running vertical to the waterline thru the engine compartment. This easily allows one to enter some water to the bearing and run the transmission.
As for the engine intake, I have a rubber toilet plunger head with a hose fitting I made up. The plunger head is attached to a telescoping handle. I jamb the handle between the ground and the plunger head over the intake thru hull, turn on the water and run the engine - it doesn't take much flow.