Vacuum Sander Recommendations?

KDreese · Post by **KDreese** » Nov 16th, '08, 11:57

I did search on vacuum sanders but didnt find much. Any recommendations on an orbital sander with vacuum attachment? My yard, like many others, requires that we use sanders with vacuums, so I was wondering what people are using. I plan to use it to sand the bottom paint.

Best Regards,

Kevin D

jbenagh · Post by **jbenagh** » Nov 16th, '08, 13:42

Kevin,

I use a Porter Cable 5in random orbit along with a Craftsman shop vac. The current sander model is the 343. You can get adapters for various air hoses at Woodcraft. Home Depot/Lowes also have some sizes.

You should also get a 3M foam backing to allow the paper to conform better to round parts (like a boat hull). Jamestown Distributors has these and sandpaper in bulk.

Jeff

Jim Walsh · Post by **Jim Walsh** » Nov 16th, '08, 16:27

I have the same outfit as Jeff with a small, 5 gallon, Shop Vac. Works perfectly. I still wear a mask and come home a mess though

tartansailor · Post by **tartansailor** » Nov 16th, '08, 17:18

Even with a vacuum attachment, I would strongly recommend
a canister type dust mask, and goggles, especially for bottom work. Forget those paper dust masks, they all, even 3M, fail.

I have finished sanding every possible surface on my CD-25, and did
not cease to get dust in my lungs until I bought that canister mask.
It has 1 strap around the neck, and a 2 strap web over my noggin.

Dick

Maine Sail · Post by **Maine Sail** » Nov 16th, '08, 19:27

Be very careful using a sander that uses bushings as opposed to sealed bearings like the 5" Porter Cable. When sanding upside down and paint with metal in it the metal residue will make it's way into the bushings and ruin it. It will start out as an innocent squeal when shutting it down but that is the beginning of the end.

I am on my fourth Porter Cable 5" sander but Sears keeps replacing them because I bought the lifetime protection plan after the first one. If you want to sand bottom paint look towards tools like the Fein which utilizes sealed bearings instead of bushings..

Porter Cable also makes two right angle sanders with dust collection and bearings. They are the 5" 97355 & 6" 97366. These are far better suited than the "palm" sanders with bushings and will last longer and cost less than a Fein. If you plan on owning a boat for a while spend the money though and get the Fein.

S/V Necessity · Post by **S/V Necessity** » Nov 18th, '08, 09:40

I have this sander and like it alot, the only thing that can beat it is my dynabrade 6" DA sander hooked up to a VERY large compressor. I believe that there is an adapter for the 97366 for attaching a vacuum.
Even though it's probably the most expensive sander here, I would say it's money well spent. Also, drop the money for the 3M gold PSA (peel stick adhesive) paper. It's more expensive up front, but in the long run it's actually less expensive, especially if you consider your time worth ANYTHING. I worked in a shop and we would run different brands of paper and keep track of the amount of use we got out of them and how fast they sanded, the 3M gold paper won in both categories. Norton paper is a close runner up though.
Many automotive paint supply places will sell it by the sheet, shop around (many won't).

Bob Ohler · Post by **Bob Ohler** » Nov 18th, '08, 11:33

I have rented the Fein sander with the Fein vacuum. When you switch on the sander, the vacuum starts as well. It is a very nice system, but I know it is on the "pricey" side to purchase it.

Bob O.
CD30
Aloha Spirit

Maine Sail · Post by **Maine Sail** » Nov 18th, '08, 15:21

S/V Necessity wrote: Even though it's probably the most expensive sander here, I would say it's money well spent.

Clearly you have not priced out a Fein...!!

The Porter Cable 97366 can be purchase for about $168.00 to $180.00 on average. The comparable Fein is over $400.00 !!!!

S/V Necessity · Post by **S/V Necessity** » Nov 18th, '08, 18:23

I forgot that Fein had a horse in this race, despite having just read that post...

Thomas Kyasky · Post by **Thomas Kyasky** » Nov 18th, '08, 19:18

I am a woodworker by trade and I use Festol power tools. Yes they are expensive, but all my workers like them, they last much longer than other brands and they are backed by the manufacture.

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Nov 18th, '08, 20:04

oops

I did it again.

Earlier, I wrote that I THINK that Jamestown featured Fein tools. Well, I had it part right. I had the correct first letter. I was thinking of the tool maker that Thomas just mentioned, Festool.

Well, because of ongoing pangs of conscience caused by this boo boo, I'm going to try to rectify this situation and turn you all on to a boatowner's ultimate mind blower.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... how_tos.do

Scroll down to the bottom of any page and click Knowledge. Then click "How Tos". The videos are good, too.

See you when you come back from this ultimate trip.

Sea Hunt · Post by **Sea Hunt** » Nov 19th, '08, 09:26

Kevin and all:

I do not want to "hijack" your thread but I have sort of a related question and did not want to just start yet another thread. I apologize in advance if it is inappropriate.

On my Ty Weekender the PO installed all new toe and rub rails. He used what I think is quality teak. However, he did not "round" the edges so it looks "squarish". Before scraping off the old Cetol and applying 3-5 coats of Cetol Light and 3-4 coats of Cetol gloss I was thinking I would like to "round" the edges on the teak rails so they more closely resemble the rails as originally installed by Cape Dory. When I was in shop class in jr. high and high school, we used hand planers and sandpaper as I recall. These days they have electric routers, electric planers, etc. I plan on doing this "in the water" not hauled out.

I would welcome thoughts on the best (and easiest) way to accomplish the "rounding" of the teak edges. As you know the toe and rub rails on the Ty are about 18' long with at least 3 square edges on each side to "round" out. By my math that is about 108' of in place "rounding" work.

If you recommend a router, which would be the proper bit in order to "round" the edge of a square teak rub rail or toe rail

Again, my apologies if this post is really "off topic". Sorry

S/V Necessity · Post by **S/V Necessity** » Nov 19th, '08, 09:40

I'd try a block and some sandpaper (100 or 120 grit) first, and see how it goes. I don't know how much material you need to remove, but a hard corner will disappear pretty quickly. On the other hand if you are like me and just looking for an excuse to buy a new tool, I'd suggest you check these out

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=102

Sea Hunt · Post by **Sea Hunt** » Nov 19th, '08, 10:38

Necessity:

Thanks for website to $115 gold plated hand planers

I know it says they are made of bronze but at $115, it must be a typo. They must be made of gold.

Although the Admiral has departed ship and I do not have to answer to her, I still have to sort of answer to me. I enjoy acquiring "toys" but $115 for a hand held planer is just a wee bit over my allowance. Do you have any idea how many Guinness I would have to give up for such a toy

I had planned to use a block of wood and sandpaper ($2-$3 total investment cost) but thought I would check with the experts on this board for more experienced advise.

$115 for a hand planer

Geez

What has this country come to

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Nov 19th, '08, 12:30

Hi Robert,

Maybe you want to round off the wooden edges on your boat. If you want to remove a small radius on the edge, you want to "soften" the edge.

If you want a more pronounced curve, you use a radius cutter bit in your router. They come in several depths.

If you plan on rounding the edges by hand, several companies make hand planes that cut rounded edges. Here is a sample.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3900

Good luck,
O J

The Cape Dory Board

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