Poli-Glow
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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- Posts: 630
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:38
Poli-Glow
For the last two years I have looked at a Poli-Glow kit sitting on the shelf. It's been there since just after my last haulout when I spent hours with wax and an electric buffer trying to restore some semblance of "shiny" to Rhiannon's topsides. I vowed I would never endure such an ordeal again and bought the Poli-Glow kit on sale shortly thereafter. Since Rhiannon is on the hard waiting for her new Betamarine 14 engine I thought this would be an appropriate time to do the Poli-Glow thing so I dedicated the day to that.
First (and importantly) I read the directions and followed them to the letter. The Poli-Glow kit has almost everything you need -- plastic gloves, applicators, scrubbing pad and backing block -- and, of course, the concentrated cleaner and the coating. The only thing missing was a spray bottle for the cleaner which I picked up at the local hardware store for $1.99.
Two days ago I scrubbed the topsides, cleaned off all the discloloration and stains with Sno-Bowl (available for $1.99 at any supermarket), lightly cleaned the topsides again after that, and repainted the boot top and cove stripe. This morning, after mixing the P/G Cleaner to the proper 3:1 ratio, I sprayed it on, scrubbed, and rinsed according to the directions. Then I went to lunch and let the topsides dry.
After returning to the boat I started applying the Poli-Glow. The directions indicated six coats was the minimum but I put on at least eight, going around the boat again and again until the P/G was gone. This took several hours and there's a definite technique to doing this job without leaving streaks, runs, and tiny groups of bubbles. It's more like varnishing with leaving a "wet edge" and all that.
I intentionally did not step back to look at the end result until the job was finished. When I did the effect was spectacular! Rhiannon looked like she was fresh out of the mold -- shiny to the point of seeing reflections in the topsides. Several people working in the yard remarked on how good the job turned out and inquired about what I used. One guy, who has been working on his boat in the yard since I've been there (2 weeks), commented that the "before and after" is impressive.
There very few marine products that promise spectacular results and then actually deliver them (teak treatments come to mind!) and I am usually reluctant to endorse a specific product for this reason but I can say the Poli-Glow stuff really works as advertised. I haven't seen Rhiannon's topsides look so good in many years! That applicator sponge is also much lighter than the electric buffer so the old muscles don't hurt nearly as badly like in years past. Since our Cape Dory's are also not so young any more there may be other owners who wish to restore their boat's original appearance and I can endorse Poli-Glow as a giant step toward this goal.
(No, I'm not being paid to endorse this product.)
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First (and importantly) I read the directions and followed them to the letter. The Poli-Glow kit has almost everything you need -- plastic gloves, applicators, scrubbing pad and backing block -- and, of course, the concentrated cleaner and the coating. The only thing missing was a spray bottle for the cleaner which I picked up at the local hardware store for $1.99.
Two days ago I scrubbed the topsides, cleaned off all the discloloration and stains with Sno-Bowl (available for $1.99 at any supermarket), lightly cleaned the topsides again after that, and repainted the boot top and cove stripe. This morning, after mixing the P/G Cleaner to the proper 3:1 ratio, I sprayed it on, scrubbed, and rinsed according to the directions. Then I went to lunch and let the topsides dry.
After returning to the boat I started applying the Poli-Glow. The directions indicated six coats was the minimum but I put on at least eight, going around the boat again and again until the P/G was gone. This took several hours and there's a definite technique to doing this job without leaving streaks, runs, and tiny groups of bubbles. It's more like varnishing with leaving a "wet edge" and all that.
I intentionally did not step back to look at the end result until the job was finished. When I did the effect was spectacular! Rhiannon looked like she was fresh out of the mold -- shiny to the point of seeing reflections in the topsides. Several people working in the yard remarked on how good the job turned out and inquired about what I used. One guy, who has been working on his boat in the yard since I've been there (2 weeks), commented that the "before and after" is impressive.
There very few marine products that promise spectacular results and then actually deliver them (teak treatments come to mind!) and I am usually reluctant to endorse a specific product for this reason but I can say the Poli-Glow stuff really works as advertised. I haven't seen Rhiannon's topsides look so good in many years! That applicator sponge is also much lighter than the electric buffer so the old muscles don't hurt nearly as badly like in years past. Since our Cape Dory's are also not so young any more there may be other owners who wish to restore their boat's original appearance and I can endorse Poli-Glow as a giant step toward this goal.
(No, I'm not being paid to endorse this product.)
________
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Last edited by Andy Denmark on Feb 13th, '11, 03:38, edited 1 time in total.
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- Posts: 150
- Joined: Dec 3rd, '05, 23:09
- Location: CD 27 (1977) "ABIGAIL"
City Island, New York
Keep Us Posted on the Beta Marine
Dear Andy,
I will be glad to hear how you like that BetaMarine 14, once it is in. My 30-yr-old YSB8 still chugs along faithfully, but I too have my eye on the BM14 for whenever the time comes that repowering is necessary.
Bob
I will be glad to hear how you like that BetaMarine 14, once it is in. My 30-yr-old YSB8 still chugs along faithfully, but I too have my eye on the BM14 for whenever the time comes that repowering is necessary.
Bob
- Warren Kaplan
- Posts: 1147
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:44
- Location: Former owner of Sine Qua Non CD27 #166 1980 Oyster Bay Harbor, NY Member # 317
Andy,
New Engine! A topsides you can use as a mirror so you can see your face in. Keep it up and I think Rhiannon will be staying in North Carolina with you for a few more seasons rather than heading west.
A couple of quick questions. How long does the poliglow last? Is this something you have to do every year? If so do you have to do 8 coats again or just a single coat as a touch up?
Second. How long/hard is it to master the application technique? If the first coat or two aren't done with perfect technique because you are learning, does it doom the finish even if the remaining coats are put on perfectly?
I ask because I too am sick and tired of waxing the hell out my topsides each year just to have them still look "chalky".
New Engine! A topsides you can use as a mirror so you can see your face in. Keep it up and I think Rhiannon will be staying in North Carolina with you for a few more seasons rather than heading west.
A couple of quick questions. How long does the poliglow last? Is this something you have to do every year? If so do you have to do 8 coats again or just a single coat as a touch up?
Second. How long/hard is it to master the application technique? If the first coat or two aren't done with perfect technique because you are learning, does it doom the finish even if the remaining coats are put on perfectly?
I ask because I too am sick and tired of waxing the hell out my topsides each year just to have them still look "chalky".
"I desire no more delight, than to be under sail and gone tonight."
(W. Shakespeare, Merchant of Venice)
(W. Shakespeare, Merchant of Venice)
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- Posts: 180
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 22:01
- Location: Cape Dory 27
Poli-Glow
Warren:
I have found that, at least here in New England where the season is short (but the Winters are long and the storage is outside) I get two good years out of a Poli-Glow treatment. I have done touch-ups in subsequent years, or sometimes just skipped another year and then stripped it all the way down.
The trick is not to use harsh or abrasive cleaners. The finish is a lot like acrylic floor wax, so anything much more than a dilute Simple Green will dull it or remove it completely.
The corollary to that rule is that many harsh cleaners will serve the same function as Poli-Prep. I use Zep Industrial Purple Cleaner for degreasing, heavy cleaning, and for preparing the hull for Poli-Glow. Andy's bowl cleaner was probably sufficient all by itself.
I found that I could experiment with application on the first couple of coats, and resolve any mistakes on subsequent coats. Don't try to overwork a drippy or bubbly area - once it starts to dry (about 30 seconds) you don't want to touch it until it is completely dry. Fortunately, it's dry by the time you do a lap around the boat.
I have found that, at least here in New England where the season is short (but the Winters are long and the storage is outside) I get two good years out of a Poli-Glow treatment. I have done touch-ups in subsequent years, or sometimes just skipped another year and then stripped it all the way down.
The trick is not to use harsh or abrasive cleaners. The finish is a lot like acrylic floor wax, so anything much more than a dilute Simple Green will dull it or remove it completely.
The corollary to that rule is that many harsh cleaners will serve the same function as Poli-Prep. I use Zep Industrial Purple Cleaner for degreasing, heavy cleaning, and for preparing the hull for Poli-Glow. Andy's bowl cleaner was probably sufficient all by itself.
I found that I could experiment with application on the first couple of coats, and resolve any mistakes on subsequent coats. Don't try to overwork a drippy or bubbly area - once it starts to dry (about 30 seconds) you don't want to touch it until it is completely dry. Fortunately, it's dry by the time you do a lap around the boat.
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
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- Posts: 50
- Joined: May 12th, '05, 10:50
- Location: 1969 Typhoon Weekender, MISS DALE, #27, Southport, NC
We've been using Poli-Glow on our Classic Boston Whaler Montauk for years now, and yes, it's like a miracle when you stand back, not just the 1st time, but each time. One of the other benefits is that waterway whiskers, slime, even minor dock rubrail smudge marks clean up very easily. As with all things, especially those that are really good, there's a catch. For P/G, it's the fact that you have to keep using it annually (clean & reapply) or it too will become chalky, discolor, and in some spots flake off. Also, if you ever need to fix gelcoat you will basically have to strip (quite a process we hear-though never had to) all the P/G off the hull in order for it all to match up (patch application doesn't work well). But that aside, we love the look and ease of maintenance, and for us, hauling out is so simple to take to the back yard and do that it's great. We do highly recommend it.
Full Sails & Calm Seas,
Chris & Dale Schnell
s/v MISS DALE, #27
1969 Alberg Typhoon Weekender
Southport, NC
Chris & Dale Schnell
s/v MISS DALE, #27
1969 Alberg Typhoon Weekender
Southport, NC
Poli-Glow vs. NuGlass
Anyone have experience with the pros and cons of these 2 products?
- Clay Stalker
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 12:07
- Location: 17' Town Class Sloop
Poli-Glow vs. NuGlass
I used NuGlass in the past on my CD27 with very good results. Just as has been said, you need to closely follow directions and put on about 5-6 coats, which takes about 3 hours total. From a distance, I was once asked if I had the hull Awlgripped! It really does shine. However, it is like floor wax so there are some compromises. Overall, it is a good temporary fix between dull, chalky gelcoat and the inevitable 2-part polyurethane spray job, very very pricey but beautiful.
On the last boat I had, a Sea Sprite 28, I found that the gelcoat used on the hull is not as thick as used on Cape Dories, so I was hesitant to compound anymore to get the shine back. So I bought some Poli-Glow at the Newport Boat Show cause it was a bit higher rated in Practical Sailor and I knew some folks who used it with good results. Alas, I am now back to sailing on a lake close to my home, so I still have the Poli-Glow kit and never used it.
All in all, these products do work and make the hull shine nicely if used correctly. But if you plan to keep a boat for many years and want to go full out, nothing beats Awlgrip.....![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
On the last boat I had, a Sea Sprite 28, I found that the gelcoat used on the hull is not as thick as used on Cape Dories, so I was hesitant to compound anymore to get the shine back. So I bought some Poli-Glow at the Newport Boat Show cause it was a bit higher rated in Practical Sailor and I knew some folks who used it with good results. Alas, I am now back to sailing on a lake close to my home, so I still have the Poli-Glow kit and never used it.
All in all, these products do work and make the hull shine nicely if used correctly. But if you plan to keep a boat for many years and want to go full out, nothing beats Awlgrip.....
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Clay Stalker
Westmoreland, NH and Spofford Lake, NH
Westmoreland, NH and Spofford Lake, NH
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- Posts: 630
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:38
"Shine" pictures
I had the camera at the boat today and attempted to get some pictures of the "shine" on Rhiannon -- not as easy as it sounds. The trick is to photograph only the shady side as the sunny side shows only white and no reflections. See the attached pix ...
Duncan's testimony bears out what I hear -- two seasons is not uncommon. The boats here I referenced from say a light cleaning and a coat or two in the spring are all that's necessary. Don't know if it can be "patched" w/o doing an entire side, though. The application technique is easily mastered but you have to be quick as the stuff dries quickly -- like in a minute or so. It would be easier if you had someone to look sideways at the area you are coating to better see holidays, streaks, runs, etc. -- I would call such a person a "reflectologist," (ahem!). Above all, get to the problem areas quickly as you don't have time to step back and inspect w/o the stuff drying on you with clumping and stickiness as the result.
I found that three foot segments were easiest to work with and gave sufficient time to correct application mistakes. The directions say to not be disappointed at the first one or two coats as they will be splotchy and streaky. True enough, but after the third and thereafter the stuff went on smoothly and started to look really good.
Later this afternoon two old guys were wandering around the boatyard and stopped to look at Rhiannon. One asked me who did the Awlgrip job! Honest, she does look that good! See for yourself .........
![Image](http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff276/trekker43/Rhiannon/Shine-portfwd.jpg)
![Image](http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff276/trekker43/Rhiannon/Shine-portaft.jpg)
![Image](http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff276/trekker43/Rhiannon/SHine-portqtr.jpg)
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JUGGALO
Duncan's testimony bears out what I hear -- two seasons is not uncommon. The boats here I referenced from say a light cleaning and a coat or two in the spring are all that's necessary. Don't know if it can be "patched" w/o doing an entire side, though. The application technique is easily mastered but you have to be quick as the stuff dries quickly -- like in a minute or so. It would be easier if you had someone to look sideways at the area you are coating to better see holidays, streaks, runs, etc. -- I would call such a person a "reflectologist," (ahem!). Above all, get to the problem areas quickly as you don't have time to step back and inspect w/o the stuff drying on you with clumping and stickiness as the result.
I found that three foot segments were easiest to work with and gave sufficient time to correct application mistakes. The directions say to not be disappointed at the first one or two coats as they will be splotchy and streaky. True enough, but after the third and thereafter the stuff went on smoothly and started to look really good.
Later this afternoon two old guys were wandering around the boatyard and stopped to look at Rhiannon. One asked me who did the Awlgrip job! Honest, she does look that good! See for yourself .........
![Image](http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff276/trekker43/Rhiannon/Shine-portfwd.jpg)
![Image](http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff276/trekker43/Rhiannon/Shine-portaft.jpg)
![Image](http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff276/trekker43/Rhiannon/SHine-portqtr.jpg)
[/img]
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JUGGALO
Last edited by Andy Denmark on Feb 13th, '11, 03:38, edited 1 time in total.
- Warren Kaplan
- Posts: 1147
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:44
- Location: Former owner of Sine Qua Non CD27 #166 1980 Oyster Bay Harbor, NY Member # 317
Looks fabulous Andy!!
Now that you are an exprienced hand at this, how would you like to do a try your hand at it north of the Mason-Dixon line. I know a guy who would keep you in fine single malt scotch while you worked!!!!!
Now that you are an exprienced hand at this, how would you like to do a try your hand at it north of the Mason-Dixon line. I know a guy who would keep you in fine single malt scotch while you worked!!!!!
"I desire no more delight, than to be under sail and gone tonight."
(W. Shakespeare, Merchant of Venice)
(W. Shakespeare, Merchant of Venice)
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- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Poli-Glow
Andy, Warren,
The pictures and account of Poli-Glow has my juices gurgling. Maybe it's just what I've been looking for and I think I'll give it a shot. I'll pick some up at the next boat show.
Rhiannon sure looks nice. She's a beauty.
All the best,
O J
The pictures and account of Poli-Glow has my juices gurgling. Maybe it's just what I've been looking for and I think I'll give it a shot. I'll pick some up at the next boat show.
Rhiannon sure looks nice. She's a beauty.
All the best,
O J
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- Posts: 630
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:38
Progress today
Last night was cold -- 35 degrees -- unheard of for this time of year! Ice on the windshield this morning. Heresy!!!
Project for the day was to install the new instrument panel. I did it despite the cold. Tomorrow is to give the control linkage a go. Will take some head scratching for that.
Here's a pic.
Warren, I will be happy to consult on a Poli-Glo job on SQN for enough MacAlan's! I need to see some friends in Norfolk, CT anyway so maybe a trip up to the hinterland is not out of the question as long as I don't have to fly Delta or go through Atlanta!
Thursday is the first fit-up for the new engine. After rough-in installation I will make all necessary measurements, design mounting for water lift muffler, determine locations for oil filter, oil change pump, raw water strainer, engine mounts, sound insulation, etc. Then I will pull the engine out, do these things, and reinstall the engine when all the above are completed. This is the fun part!
I may well make the December 1 deadline after all (to head south!).
Dinner calls ......
[img]http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... tPanel.jpg[/img]
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HERBALAIRE VAPORIZER
Project for the day was to install the new instrument panel. I did it despite the cold. Tomorrow is to give the control linkage a go. Will take some head scratching for that.
Here's a pic.
Warren, I will be happy to consult on a Poli-Glo job on SQN for enough MacAlan's! I need to see some friends in Norfolk, CT anyway so maybe a trip up to the hinterland is not out of the question as long as I don't have to fly Delta or go through Atlanta!
Thursday is the first fit-up for the new engine. After rough-in installation I will make all necessary measurements, design mounting for water lift muffler, determine locations for oil filter, oil change pump, raw water strainer, engine mounts, sound insulation, etc. Then I will pull the engine out, do these things, and reinstall the engine when all the above are completed. This is the fun part!
I may well make the December 1 deadline after all (to head south!).
Dinner calls ......
[img]http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff27 ... tPanel.jpg[/img]
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HERBALAIRE VAPORIZER
Last edited by Andy Denmark on Feb 13th, '11, 03:39, edited 1 time in total.
Boot Stripe
Andy...what kind of paint did you use to redo your boot stripe? happy with the results?...thanks craig
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- Posts: 630
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:38
Boot top
Craig,
The paint I used is Pettit Boot Top paint. I don't have the product number handy but the name is probably all you need. It went on nicely after light sanding w/ 180 grit and wiping down with mineral spirits on a rag.
If memory serves me right the paint comes in only four colors; Red, Black, Green and Blue. It had better be good as it is $10.00 (on sale) for 1/2 pint!
Hope this helps
________
List of ford transmissions history
The paint I used is Pettit Boot Top paint. I don't have the product number handy but the name is probably all you need. It went on nicely after light sanding w/ 180 grit and wiping down with mineral spirits on a rag.
If memory serves me right the paint comes in only four colors; Red, Black, Green and Blue. It had better be good as it is $10.00 (on sale) for 1/2 pint!
Hope this helps
________
List of ford transmissions history
- Frank Vernet
- Posts: 245
- Joined: Feb 7th, '05, 16:42
- Location: Cape Dory 33 "Sirius" Hull #84 Deale, MD
Re: Poli-Glow - UPDATE
Hi All,
I bump this 2008 thread back to the top as a friend, who also owns a "good old boat", recently and enthusiastically recommended Poli Glo to me.
How has Poli Glo stood the test of time? Are you still happy with it? I am tempted to do the topside this spring and enjoy the shine all summer.
Frank
(corrected a typo)
I bump this 2008 thread back to the top as a friend, who also owns a "good old boat", recently and enthusiastically recommended Poli Glo to me.
How has Poli Glo stood the test of time? Are you still happy with it? I am tempted to do the topside this spring and enjoy the shine all summer.
Frank
(corrected a typo)
"A sailor's joys are as simple as a child's." - Bernard Moitessier