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Thank you very much for the additional info and suggestions. I hope to do this project after hurricane season (end of Nov).
Dick, I assume you knew (and know) that I was kidding. I did look the word up in dictionary.com before I posted. Chemistry 101 I barely got out with a GED
Just for those inquiring minds who didn't know from one of the "undereducated" (GED as well) who wanted to know and looked it up:
Main Entry: stoi·chi·om·e·try
Pronunciation: \ˌstȯi-kē-ˈä-mə-trē\
Function: noun
Etymology: Greek stoicheion element (from stoichos row) + English -metry; akin to Greek steichein to walk, go — more at stair
Date: 1807
1: a branch of chemistry that deals with the application of the laws of definite proportions and of the conservation of mass and energy to chemical activity
2 a: the quantitative relationship between constituents in a chemical substance b: the quantitative relationship between two or more substances especially in processes involving physical or chemical change
By the way, I have put combing boards back together (3-4' cracks) using West System epoxy w/filler and also mixing in teak sawdust and 6 years later they're still solid and together. They were too deep in to reach w/inlaid screws, but I'm getting ready to do another repair on a CD 25 where the winch mount screws pulled thru the combing and cracked it up to the leading edge & I will counter-sink screws along w/the West System.
Full Sails & Calm Seas,
Chris & Dale Schnell
s/v MISS DALE, #27
1969 Alberg Typhoon Weekender
Southport, NC
Just for the record...we have had no luck with gorilla glue. After prolonged exposure to sun and temperature changes almost all these glue joints failed. My main concern was that it was the glue that failed as no wood came away at the failure.
Serge
the yard finally got the transducer installed on my boat, and low and behold the Moor Depth Sounder guage fits in a 4" hole and the old one is a 4 1/2" hole. So, I made trim piece out of some scrap teak that I fortunately had resisted my wife's insistance to throw away ("Why do you need all those pieces of wood?") I keep pieces as small as 2"X2"!
I also had made a trim ring for my new compass. I do not want to drill holes, but can if necessary to attach to the cabin trunk.
Now the question, should I use 5200? I'm always skeptical of using anythnig permanent because I inevitably decide to do something different, sometimes the next day, sometimes years later.
I'd appreciate any suggestions. I can countersink and plug some screw holes but would prefer not to.
If you were bonding the deck to the hull 5200 would be a great choice.
For all else go with something a lot less tenacious. Caulk has amazing holding capacity if it is well bonded. You really don't need to over do it.
Raven got a 2" depth sounder in a 4" hole last winter. I made up a teak ring for the outside and a teak plywood cover plate for the inside of the liner. The outer ring got caulked with boat life. It was then held in place by a few screws installed from the back side. I drilled countersunk holds with clearance on the inside cover then pre drilled the teak ring and tightened them up. You might need some spacer blocks between the liner an the outer bulkhead to keep from compressing things.
The beauty of this method is that the inside cover is not caulked and can be taken off to get at the back of the depth sounder.
Your situation may vary but you might be able to do something similar, Steve.