portholes

[Joe CD MS 300]

For installation of their bronze and stainless ports New Found Metals recommends using a butyl rubber tape. The tape stays flexible indefinetly. It is wraps around the port spigot before it is pushed through the cabin wall from the inside. It should be thick enough to fill and gaps between the port and the opening for the port. The outside cover is then placed over the spigot with a bead of caulk around the edge of the outside frame. I think they recommend something like boatlife or 4200 but not 5200.

[John Danicic]

Useful information. I, for one, also enjoy the background shot of the sailboat and inlet in the background.

How do you keep the interior bronze frame nice and shiny? Steel wool? Polish?

Nice screens by the way. I scored 8 of 'em when we first acquired the 270.

Thank you Warren for the kind complement on my screens, (and my photo). I am glad they have worked out for you and all the other CDers out there. It is almost time to start building more screens for next season because for me, the boat comes out Monday. So it goes...

I enjoyed working on the port seals at one of the many anchorages around the beautiful Apostle Islands here in Lake Superior. One old sailor told me that, if you are going to be working, you might as well have pretty surroundings to calm you down.

I did finish the portlights seals and used the same foam cord to do the Bowmar Hatches. Still have plenty left for my brothers boat.

As far as polishing the ports: The PO might have done it but I never do. These were "Spartan Polished Ports" that came with the boat. I am told it was part of the "Navigator package" from Cape Dory. The oridginal owner also had the interior teak varnished so it was and still is a lovely, inviting cabin.

I also agree with Bill: Silicon to bed the glass. 4200 to bed the portlight back into the cabin wall. I use 5200 only as a permanent "glue" where taking it apart means, pry bars, chisels, and saws.

Sail on.

John Danicic
CD 36 -Mariah- #124
Lake Superior

[Jim Davis]

Silicon to bed the glass. For plastic fine, almost mandatory. For real glass in a port frame you want permanent, as in forever. If you have to break the glass to remove it GOOD, the same applies to a sea coming on board.[/i]

[Bill Cochrane]

My recommendation was to use silicone (RTV) to bed the bronze portlight frame into the fiberglass house. I'm not sure what holds the glass into the frame...I've never had to remove the glass. If it's only held in by the sealant, especially if it goes in from the inside, then I agree with Jim...you want something that will be harder to remove to resist a boarding sea.

John, 4200 would work as well; the silicone is a bit easier to remove when needed, and adhesion is not really necessary as the bolts hold the assembly together...all that's needed is a watertight seal.

[Shipscarver]

AH -Haaaa! No one mentioned that you have to wait a week for the glass houses to send the cut glass away to have it tempered!
My dumb. I took the port out, duct taped over the hole and have spent 1/2 of a day trying to get it replaced. No deal, everyone says leave it and we will be back to you next week.
Of course, West Marine came through as usual, no idea of who does glass for boats. And, we are in St. Petersburg, FL The self declared, "Sailing Capital of Florida."

[Cathy Monaghan]

The glass in the 13" oval Spartan portlights is 1/4" tempered glass held in place up against a bronze flange with silicone sealant. The glass is up against the flange on the side facing outside, so the glass is sandwiched between both the interior and exterior bronze flanges when closed and should not be stove in by a boarding wave -- that doesn't mean that it can't break, but that's why portlights shouldn't be large. The larger the expanse of glass or plastic, the more likely they are to fail. Larger portlights are also more likely to leak.

Did you try an auto glass place? They deal with tempered glass all the time. Give the GlassDoctor a call, they may be able to help -- (305) 351-1848. They are in Tampa.

http://www.glassdoctor.com/tampa/


Hope this helps,
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

[Shipscarver]

After going to 3 auto glass shops, I spent 2 hours on the phone calling around, telling folks what I need, type and size, to get the same answer. "Bring it in, we will cut the glass and send it out to be tempered." Finally one guy told me to call a local mirror company, supposedly the only outfit in the area that can temper on site. I called them, and guess what? They said, "Bring it in and we can probably have it for you in a week, if we can do it." Oh yeah, and, "NO idea of what it will cost till we see it."

However, since I have to move the boat Sun. or Mon. I am now going to the Yard and put the bloody port back in. That way, I can practice taking it out sometime next week. I bet I will get good at this! Is there an Olympic Port Team?

[Cathy Monaghan]

Have you called Spartan? Will they sell you just the glass?