Jack Lines

[Larry Mace]

I am in the process of setting up jack lines on my cd33 and was wondering what other people are using. On my other boat I use climbing webbing sewn to form two loops which I attach to a metal toe rail via a shackle. I an looking for other options or ways to attach the webbing on the 33. I think I can shackle the forward end to the forward cleat and am considering the same set up tfor the aft cleat. I am not sure about tying the aft end off. When I was climbing I remember learning that there is no knot to effectively tie off webbing-only a knot to join two ends together-which is why I am thinking about having the ends sewn to for a loop.
thanks



lmace@gt.com

[Boll Bloxham]

There is an interesting discussion on jack lines at the Cruising World message board.
Go to http://www.sailingworld.com/cgi-bin/genlmesg.pl?
The discussion has been running a few days already. CW will wipe it out in a day or so.



mmmmmmbill@aol.com

[Jerry Hammernik]

I am in the process of setting up jack lines on my cd33 and was wondering what other people are using. On my other boat I use climbing webbing sewn to form two loops which I attach to a metal toe rail via a shackle. I an looking for other options or ways to attach the webbing on the 33. I think I can shackle the forward end to the forward cleat and am considering the same set up tfor the aft cleat. I am not sure about tying the aft end off. When I was climbing I remember learning that there is no knot to effectively tie off webbing-only a knot to join two ends together-which is why I am thinking about having the ends sewn to for a loop.
thanks

Larry,
I use webbing on my 28. I cleat it to an aft cleat the same way you would cleat a dockline. I then run it forward thru the cleats and back to the other aft cleat and do the same. They've don't give at all when I pull on them.
Jerry Hammernik
Lion's Paw CD28 #341



dauntles@execpc.com

[Catherine Monaghan]

Larry,

On our CD32 we use webbing -- one for each side of the boat. There's a loop at only one end of each which we set on the forward cleats then cleat off the tails on the aft cleats the same way you would cleat off any line. You could also use long docklines -- 1/2 inch nylon 3-strand or braid with an eyesplice at one end.

catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
<a href=<"http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... lization's Home Page</a>

I am in the process of setting up jack lines on my cd33 and was wondering what other people are using. On my other boat I use climbing webbing sewn to form two loops which I attach to a metal toe rail via a shackle. I an looking for other options or ways to attach the webbing on the 33. I think I can shackle the forward end to the forward cleat and am considering the same set up tfor the aft cleat. I am not sure about tying the aft end off. When I was climbing I remember learning that there is no knot to effectively tie off webbing-only a knot to join two ends together-which is why I am thinking about having the ends sewn to for a loop.
thanks

catherine_monaghan@merck.com

[Neil Gordon]

My jacklines are set up same as others that have responded. They're attached to the forward cleats, then let aft port and stbd to the stern cleats. I don't note any slippage once cleated conventionally.

However you set up, you want to be able to clip on from the cockpit and move all the way forward freely without having to detatch from the boat. Webbing has the advantage over line in that it won't roll underfoot. It has extra stretch, though... make sure it's tight enough to keep you on the boat... dragging through the water is often in the upside down can't breathe position.


Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167



neil@nrgordon.com

[Warren Stringer]

I use webbing, looped through the base of the bow and stern cleats each side, and tied back to itself with two water knots in series about a foot away from the cleat.

Warren



wstringer@aristotle.net

[Larry DeMers]

We use 1 1/2 in. nylon webbing, attached to a carabiner with safety locks at both ends. We attach to the bow anchor cleats or the port and starboard anchor rode gates (what *are* they called..it's been a long winter!). The aft ends are led back under the winch pads, to a large bronze padeye let through the deck and backed with aluminum plates, just in front of the stern cleats.

The nylon changes dimension when heated by the sun, so it was tough to keep the tension on the jack line tight enough to keep from being a trip hazard. So we attached a 12 in. length of shock cord to the aft end of the jack lines such that the shock cord takes up all of the slack of the line but yet stretches far enough to accomodate the normal length change.

We have a rule to use these jack ines anytime the wind is over 15k or at night under all conditions. Worked so far.

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~~~Sailing Lake Superior~~~~

I am in the process of setting up jack lines on my cd33 and was wondering what other people are using. On my other boat I use climbing webbing sewn to form two loops which I attach to a metal toe rail via a shackle. I an looking for other options or ways to attach the webbing on the 33. I think I can shackle the forward end to the forward cleat and am considering the same set up tfor the aft cleat. I am not sure about tying the aft end off. When I was climbing I remember learning that there is no knot to effectively tie off webbing-only a knot to join two ends together-which is why I am thinking about having the ends sewn to for a loop.
thanks

ldemers@win.bright.net

[JohnR.]

Our jacklines are a single length of 1" tubular webbing with a loop at each end that is sewn together with twin box stitching as you would see on a good harness. The webbing is shackled to each stern cleat and run through the base of the front cleats. Like I said we are talking about a continuous length of line running from the starboard side to the port side beginning and terminating with the stern cleats. The webbing is triple layered where it runs through the bow cleats to ward off chafe.

I saw a CD36 that used lifeline wire that ran along the base of the cabin side just above the deck so it wouldn't roll under foot and no one would trip over it. It had stainless thimbles and nicropress (doubled nicros) eyes at each end and was shackled with seized shackles at a cast bronze four bolt diamond shape padeye at each end. It looked great and is always ready for use and NO stretch problems. A real clean design. That won't collect dirt on deck like the webbing does and it won't weaken from chafe if used heavily. You could go to West and make them yourself on their rigging bench. A person could use stainless eyepads but make sure they are cast and not welded.

[Brewer Ezzell]

You might consider using 3/16 inch rigging wire, inserted through tubular webbing, sized for the length of the bow-stern run, with stainless thimbles or Norseman fittings put on the ends of the wire. The ends could then be lashed to the cleats, padeyes, etc.

The advantages of this setup include greater strength and no stretch. The tubular webbing keeps the wire from rolling under foot.

Brewer Ezzell
s/v BLACKBERRY, a Morris Frances 26



bezzell@murphyfarms.com