I'm finally putting in dodger and bimini (well, having it done...I had great aspirations of doing it myself, but time does not permit); My canvas guy needs to locate the leading lower edge of the dodger forward of the current positions of the gooseneck block and padeye for the main traveler. Anybody done this? Will having them on the fore side of the traveler rail throw off the operation of the trim? Sources for OEM hardware? Advice on leak-free and strong-enough installation? Thanks!
brainstorm@unidial.com
CD30: Relocating traveler hardware for dodger.
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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John R.
Re: CD30: Relocating traveler hardware for dodger.
Geoff, On our CD30 the dodger leading edge goes under the traveller and is designed to fit around the deck/traveller hardware. It shouldn't be necessary to relocate any of the main sheet deck hardware. I wouldn't think it advisable to move any of the hardware anyway. I think the sheeting is already a little far forward from ideal to begin with.Geoff Safron wrote: I'm finally putting in dodger and bimini (well, having it done...I had great aspirations of doing it myself, but time does not permit); My canvas guy needs to locate the leading lower edge of the dodger forward of the current positions of the gooseneck block and padeye for the main traveler. Anybody done this? Will having them on the fore side of the traveler rail throw off the operation of the trim? Sources for OEM hardware? Advice on leak-free and strong-enough installation? Thanks!
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Olli Wendelin
Re: CD30: Relocating traveler hardware for dodger.
I would not relocate your traveler or deck hardware. It could get real messy cutting in to the ceiling to add new backing pads.
On my CD30 Ketch the dodger extends under the traveler. It has cutouts for all of the deck hardware and sheets. It also attaches forward of the main hatch to preclude any interference.
I would also recommend adding a zipper to the back of the dodger and the front of the bimini. A small square of canvas can the bridge the gap to provide weather protection when desired. I am getting ready to add one to my rig to increase the shade in the cockpit.
Also have the zippers in the middle panel of the dodger so that you can roll up the windshield on a good day.
Sorry I do not have a picture of my dodger but I could take one if your sailmaker has a hard time figuring it out.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
On my CD30 Ketch the dodger extends under the traveler. It has cutouts for all of the deck hardware and sheets. It also attaches forward of the main hatch to preclude any interference.
I would also recommend adding a zipper to the back of the dodger and the front of the bimini. A small square of canvas can the bridge the gap to provide weather protection when desired. I am getting ready to add one to my rig to increase the shade in the cockpit.
Also have the zippers in the middle panel of the dodger so that you can roll up the windshield on a good day.
Sorry I do not have a picture of my dodger but I could take one if your sailmaker has a hard time figuring it out.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
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Larry DeMers
Re: CD30: Relocating traveler hardware for dodger.
Geoff,
I have a Island Nautical dodger on my CD30 cutter. The leading ege of the dodger goes *underneath* the traveler, and then attaches to the boat with twist locks, slightly in front of the traveler.
I would not move the traveler if I were you. The deck has been reinforced with plywood at the points where the bolts go through the roof of the cabin, but the rest of the roof has a foam inner core. There is also the problem of the backing plates which will need to be moved.
Good Luck!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~~~~Sailing Lake Superior~~~~~~~~
demers@sgi.com
I have a Island Nautical dodger on my CD30 cutter. The leading ege of the dodger goes *underneath* the traveler, and then attaches to the boat with twist locks, slightly in front of the traveler.
I would not move the traveler if I were you. The deck has been reinforced with plywood at the points where the bolts go through the roof of the cabin, but the rest of the roof has a foam inner core. There is also the problem of the backing plates which will need to be moved.
Good Luck!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~~~~Sailing Lake Superior~~~~~~~~
Geoff Safron wrote: I'm finally putting in dodger and bimini (well, having it done...I had great aspirations of doing it myself, but time does not permit); My canvas guy needs to locate the leading lower edge of the dodger forward of the current positions of the gooseneck block and padeye for the main traveler. Anybody done this? Will having them on the fore side of the traveler rail throw off the operation of the trim? Sources for OEM hardware? Advice on leak-free and strong-enough installation? Thanks!
demers@sgi.com
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Mike
Re: CD30: Relocating traveler hardware for dodger.
AUGHRRR!!!! One of my pet peeves. Tell this guy that you are paying
him to FIT!!! the dodger. How do people like this get into business?
Trying to calm.
Mike
mikieq@erols.com
him to FIT!!! the dodger. How do people like this get into business?
Trying to calm.
Mike
mikieq@erols.com
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Geoff
Thanks all! Any photos?
I think my canvas guy was afraid of some leak-through in making a slot for the sheets through the dodger windshield; Larry, John and Olli, I'd love to see how your boats have it installed, if you have pictures. I'm happy to pay for any processing, if you don't have digital.
Oh, and Mike, not to worry; he's a good guy, and just wants it to work best for me. (besides, he's giving me a pretty damn good deal: $2000 CANADIAN for dodger wih zip-outs, bimini with zip-out windows and bugscreens, and connector panels).
brainstorm@unidial.com
Oh, and Mike, not to worry; he's a good guy, and just wants it to work best for me. (besides, he's giving me a pretty damn good deal: $2000 CANADIAN for dodger wih zip-outs, bimini with zip-out windows and bugscreens, and connector panels).
brainstorm@unidial.com